Missing dump/bov valve? Or did it not have one originally?

My 1984 T16 doesn't appear to have any dump valve at all? Is this correct? I thought I'd read somewhere that all 16 valve turbos had them? My 1987 model did, but I've had all the pipes off and there is nothing at all where the dump valve should be. I presume it's easy enough to retro-fit one providing I get the rubber elbow and a length of vac hose? Or does the older car have some other mechanism that I'm not aware of already?

cheers Mike

Reply to
Mike P
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in '84 T16s were new. It would not surprise me if it did not have a BOV. You'll need the turbo inlet elbow, the BOV, the hose from the intake to the BOV... You may or may not have a fitting on the throttle body for the hose, though. Google on fitting a BOV to an 8V to see where they pick this up. Otherwise, maybe pick up a later model throttle body.

Good luck,

KeithG

Mike P wrote:

Reply to
KeithG

In article , snipped-for-privacy@privacy.net spouted forth into alt.autos.saab...

Mine had had the hose that goes from the throttlebody to the dumpvalve cut and capped off with a very large torx bolt. the Valve itself is sandwiched between the boost pipe (from air meter to turbo) and the thermostat housing. that had been left in on mine.

Reply to
MeatballTurbo

Thanks Carl. I replaced the DV on my the '87 car, so I know where it should be, it just isn't there. I'm all nice and clean now so I'll have a root and see if any pipes have been blocked/removed and if the outlet on the TB is there..

Ta Mike

Reply to
Mike P

Had a quick look - there's defintely no valve, and no pipework or attachment on the throttlebody either. Shame. Looks like I'll have to get hold of a later one then and fit a standard bosch valve.

Mike

Reply to
Mike P

In article , snipped-for-privacy@privacy.net spouted forth into alt.autos.saab...

If the pipe is on at the throttle body (or capped like mine was) see about getting the DV mounted stright to that. Get an Atmo one, make sure it is double spring.

normally only 8v turbos came without valves, and they were Pre APC ones.

Reply to
MeatballTurbo

My 88 8V T didn't have one, and that was APC.. :-) Mike

Reply to
Mike P

In article , snipped-for-privacy@privacy.net spouted forth into alt.autos.saab...

Hmm, wonder if someone has fitted 8v parts to your 16v when they broke something and bodged it back together, or when the original DV started leaking?

Reply to
MeatballTurbo

I've read on Saabcentral that the early ones didn't have DVs, and being an A-reg 1983 this looks to be the case - there's no tell tale signs such as a plugged vac hose outlet on the TB, no plugged inlet etc. It would seem a lot of trouble to go and fit 8v parts instead of a new DV - manifold and all wouldn't it? I've got a later model spare TB kicking about, and a DV somewhere, so I'm just going to stick that one once it's got MOT on it.

On another point - are the old style APCs just as tweakable as the later ones?

Mike

Reply to
Mike P

"Mike P" skrev i en meddelelse news: snipped-for-privacy@uni-berlin.de...

If you have an '83 900, it's deffinately born as an 8-valve turbo. The

16-valve didn't come out 'till '84.

Cheers!

Reply to
Henrik B.

Yep, I thought my Sept 84 B plater was an early one

Reply to
MeatballTurbo

Can you just confirm, is you rocker cover a narrow one with ribs, or a wider one, with a central cover over the sparkplugs?

Reply to
MeatballTurbo

It's a big grey thing, that says 16 valve on it :-) Having had a T8 and a T16 in the past, I know the difference...

FWIW I was wrong, car first registered on 31st may 1984, as a 16 valve turbo. It definitely has no dump valve.

Anyway - I can't be arsed with it. I've just spent an afternoon realising my mechanicing days are over. Anyone want it for spares? It's got a recon gearbox and turbo on it, 2 new front tyres etc etc.. give me what I paid for it and take it away (£70). It's in Marlow, Bucks..

Mike

Reply to
Mike P

OK, if it is a 2 door 16v turbo saloon, get it through an MOT and you=20 are looking at a few hundred back minimum, at least MOT it and decide=20 what it needs. Then work out whether it is worth the money.

A 2 door 8v turbo with some dodgy patches of aerokit plastics, and signs=20 of a breakin with a very short MOT and no tax was up for sale for =A31100= =20 near me recently.

See if you find a post on here regarding the Vin decoder.

8v's over lapped the 16v's so it is possible to have a 2 door facelifted=20 8v turbo without dump valve, and then transplant the 16v engine in if=20 the 8v blew up. the vin decoder will tell you whether it was originally an 8 or 16v.

--=20 The poster formerly known as Skodapilot.

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Reply to
MeatballTurbo

OK, if it is a 2 door 16v turbo saloon, get it through an MOT and you are looking at a few hundred back minimum, at least MOT it and decide what it needs. Then work out whether it is worth the money.

A 2 door 8v turbo with some dodgy patches of aerokit plastics, and signs of a breakin with a very short MOT and no tax was up for sale for £1100 near me recently.

See if you find a post on here regarding the Vin decoder.

Thanks for the advice Carl. The VIN decoder at

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shows it to be what itsays on the tin. It's a 1984, Trollhattan made, 5 speed 16 Valve Turbointercooler 4 (four) door saloon. I took it for an MOT today. It didn't pass, but it was not too bad. Handbrake inoperative on one side, low effort on the other. Foglight not working and a bald rear tyre. Can I really be arsed to fix the handbrake myself (I'm certainley not paying for it) and CAN I actually do it without ballsing it up? If so, I'd get a tyre on it and keep it. It's a nicer drive than the 900S, for sure, due to the good 'box and turbo

How difficult is the handbrake? I suspect it needs at least one new cable. No action on one side, low on other.

Thanks again, always appreciated :-)

Mike

Reply to
Mike P

In article , snipped-for-privacy@privacy.net spouted forth into alt.autos.saab...

Again, go for the google archives. I asked here for my last MOT, and the resident Mastertech broke it down.

Best advice is new pads first. I had a set of Ferodos that I bought from Halfords, but they aren't that great, and Pagids from Parts for Saabs or German and Swedish are much cheaper, google the URLs.

if you go for Parts for Saabs, they have the special tool on the site to wind the pistons back in, much easier than the circlip pliers I had to use.

take off wheel, turn disk till the notch is between pads, pull the old pads (R clip and tap out the u-bar and lift off the pad cover).

Fit the outside pad, and if the inside one goes straight in easily, remove and wind out the piston a touch. the inside one should be a fairly tight and be tapped in.

Do both sides, then pump the pedal about 6 times, then click on the handbrake about 4, then another 6 pumps, and 4 more clicks till it locks. Don't worry about the amount of clicks. That can't fail it, and the handle actually goes almost vertical.

You might need to do it for a few times before it works, sometimes repeating upto 5 or six times.

What I tend to do is then disconnect one side, and with the handbrake on try to push the car. Then swap sides over. If you can move it, no way it will pass. If it rock solid out of gear on one side of the handbrake, it should pass no bother. Mine did. just make sure to reconnect both sides before the retest.

Mine never lasts long, especially the passenger side (on mine), but it will pass the test.

Check the earth for the fog light, saloons had a rear earth point issue and there is a known fix.

If the front tyres are good depth, get them swapped to the rear, and get a decent pair for the front.

I did both sides in a couple of hours including swapping and bleeding a leaky caliper, and I'm not the most mechanically adept. First time I swapped a caliper took me 4 hours. Just remember to take the top of the fluid for when you push back in.

Reply to
MeatballTurbo

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