Removing rear spoilers?

It was original equipment. Removing it will quite likely reduce the value of your car.

I know the 9-3 Convertable shares the same aero package as the Viggen but I'm not sure about the rear wing...but be warned, the Viggen wing *IS* functional:

From Saab regarding the Viggen rear wing: However, the advantages of utilizing such an aggressive front spoiler present a challenge. Increased airflow over the car adds to the lift forces at the rear of the car, which can have a destabilizing effect under heavy braking from high speeds. To counter this possibility, the rear wing was designed to dramatically reduce lift forces at the rear and regain the front/rear balance of the car. The Saab 37 Viggen's delta wing design provides the lift and agility necessary to enable this multi-purpose jet fighter to perform its airborne duties. In contrast, the inverted rear wing designed for the 9-3 Viggen, with greater surface area on top than on the underside, keeps the earthbound Viggen firmly planted on the ground by creating an area of low pressure beneath the wing. This provides enhanced high-speed stability and a more linear response to hard braking, preventing the 9-3 Viggen from "nose diving" during high-speed deceleration. Balance is the key, not only for Saab 37 Viggen jet fighter pilots, but also for pilots of the new, low flying Saab 9-3 Viggen automobile.

Yes, at speeds somewhere over 100mph it may have an effect. It probably affects airflow and mpg at lower speeds - negatively.

If the OP is around... I think the spoiler leaves a couple holes behind when removed. I might consider purchasing yours if you do remove it. email me.

If it's affecting airflow and mpg, it's providing downforce. Smart engineers thought it needed to go on the car so I'd be very leery about taking it off. I'll take the .1mpg hit on the mileage.

I have heard the same argument for alloy wheels. The advocates

say the alloys wheels handle better, but forget to add only at higher speeds - speeds over 100 MPH. They also love the compare a minivan with steel wheels and all season tires to a sports car with a sport suspension, alloy wheels and high performance tires - and give all of the credit solely to the alloy rims. As some Saab owners know very well, their alloy rim handle their wallets very well, especially after they have driven through a few potholes.

There is some legitimate argument to rotational acceleration of alloy wheels due to lighter weights even at lower speeds. I've seen the physics although I can't quote them.

However, most "alloy" wheels today are rather heavy. They seem to easily weigh 30lbs each. Contrast that to my mini-lites of days gone by that used _real_ alloys and were about 10lbs each. (and it was not just a size difference, it was the alloy used).

Common alloy wheels are likely still lighter than a comparable steel wheel in the sizes we use today and likely have an advantage. Also, reducing unsprung weight is an advantage in handling. They are also better vented in some cases - not all, and steel wheels could be if someone tried - but that has braking advantages.

I admit that the cheap alloy we get today do bend easily and it is now a major problem.

I'd suggest that *stylists* thought it needed to go on the car, not engineers. Any 9~3 at 185HP or over will likely do the same 145-150mph top end of the Viggen and most all are sold without a rear spoiler - because aside from the Autobahn, there's not many places you can drive where the spoiler has an effect. The downforce exerted is minimal under 100mph based on what I've seen. There's just not enough pressure to make a difference.

Also, I suspect that it's more than .1 mpg based on my crude understanding of airflow design. But, probably not too much more.

I agree that alloy rim contribute to better handling, as you have said. But you did not mention at what speed you would experience this better handling - something most alloy rim enhusiast omit. As for the improved acceleration of alloy rims due to their lighter weight, I would suggest we get some numbers before we declare it worth the cost. Say my Saab goes 0-60 in 7 seconds with alloys, will it go 0-60 in 7.1 seconds with steel rims - is that worth the cost? Why won't the manufacturers and buyers admit they are selling/buying the alloy rims to add to the profit margin (suppliers praying for potholes) and because they look better.

I can tell you I have driven Saabs with steel rims and alloy rims at reasonable speeds, around the legal speed limits. I have experienced no difference, no "improved handling" due to the slightly lighter unsprung wheel weight or better braking due to better venting. I have personally experienced the financial pain of replacing alloy rims (potholes)versus the cost of buying steel rims for snow tires.

I will tell you a BMW racing instructor and stock car class racer has said alloy rims are better - at speeds above 120 MPH. If you live in an area where you can drive on the public roads at 120 MPH or better (and keep your license), then I would say alloy rims are worth the extra money. If someone knows of such a place let me know :-)

I think a lot of it has to do with these overweight and under strength alloys we now use. Remember when they used to call them "mag" wheels? That was a derivative of "magnesium" wheels. When wheels actually had some magnesium in the alloy, they were strong and light... but expensive. Now they are cheap and perform accordingly.

It's definitely a style issue for most folks. However, steel wheels are not available in sizes to accommodate wider, lower profile tires - and that does definitely make a noticeable difference in handling.

What brands of alloy wheels have maintained a high level of quality? Surely they can't all be cutting corners to chase the bling-bling 22" spinner market.

BBS are generally regarded as top quality and are a large producer. But they are not inexpensive...

I have a ex-racer friend who runs a "motorsports" garage. He sees lots and lots of wheels and tires in a year. He likes BBS - but in the $400 usd /wheel class. He says that those resist the bumps better. Even the lower priced BBS wheels do not stand up well in his observations. I suspect that, as I mentioned in my earlier post, it's a question of the alloy - magnesium and other upper end metals are not cheap.

Once you get up to ~$400 per, you are usually talking about forged wheels, which are definitely superior.

I agree, the tires make the most difference in handling - notice I did not say the handling was always better. I did not put wider rims and tires on my SPG because the suspension was optimized with the 15" rims and factory tires size/speed rating. Also, the cost of the original factory spec tire is still $150 a tire. If I were to get $400 rims and $250 tires ($2,600 total), my better half would have more than a few words :-)

Well, better get rid of that other half then. Can't have it restricting your hobbies :-)

I've found that most vehicles - not necessarily an SPG - are optimized for a combination of ride and handling for the "average" driver (of course). If you are willing to sacrifice a little ride comfort you can generally improve handling with lower sidewalls -properly done of course to preserve diameter and load rating. That means alloy wheels most of the time.