Is there a connector on the loom for the towbar electrics (and repeater?) or is it a case of splicing in the wiring using Satan's own Scotchlock connectors?
[Saab_c900] Towbar Wiring
Nov 16, 2005
4 Replies
1986 900GL 2 door saloon
I've always spliced, but not with the Scotchlock connectors; I don't trust 'em. Put them into a proper "you need a crimper for this" splice.
Dave Hinz
We maybe talking about the same thing - those awful blue things - or do you have something else in mind? Do you have a link to something suitable?
Did you bother with repeaters? I think in the UK we're /supposed/ to have a trailer indicator ("turn signal" for our US comrades).
They look kind of like a hat, or the top-half of a beer bottle. Maybe like a wire-nut, but you crimp the top rather than screw it onto the copper. Radio Spares, maybe? Been decades since I was over there so I don't know your techie-electronic sources anymore.
I just wire 'em right in. Works fine with the c900's turn signal module, which I believe is still mechanical. The repeater would be needed if you didn't have the current capacity. With the c900, you do. If your local laws differ from my advice, I take no responsibility blah blah blah...
Here we go: (googled images.google.com for 'crimp connector wire')
formatting link
like that.
Dave Hinz
The indicator relay has it's timer set by the current drawn by the lamps - nothing wrong with putting more lamps in parallel with the existing ones but it drops the resistance of the indicator circuit and that'll slow down the flashing.
That's why if you replace the standard 21 watt 12 volt lamps with LED-based lamps, you get indicators flashing really fast or not at all if the relay cannot handle the rate demanded by the electronics setting the rate and you need to wire in a 'load' resistor.
If extra lamps are added to an indicator circuit the current draw will be higher and the flash rate will actually reduce (instead of speed up when the current draw is less). I don't know if it's a linear relationship between current draw and flash rate though - haven't got the circuit for the electronics inside the relay to answer that question yet.
Scotchlock connectors work really well if two conditions are met:
1 - they're the right size to suit the wire gauge (so that the slots in the metal cutter plate cut the insulation but don't either cut into the copper or not at all if the wire gauge is too small for the connector), 2 - the wires either side of the connector are not put under opposing tensile forces which will cause connections to start breaking down and increasing resistance due to the copper of the wires starting to pull out of the cutter plate and/or insulation starting to creep between the copper strands and the slots in the plate.They also need to be attached properly! Far too many times I've seen scotchlock connectors (not just in auto applications) with the cutter plate not pushed in properly, or the cover that clips the thing together not being clipped down. They'll still work fine if the cover isn't clipped, but it's a bit of insurance that the cutter plate is still where it should be and that the wires aren't in tension which twists the connector body and can make the cover unclip.
Regards,
Craig.
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