Washer Fluid Kickback

So why does the washer fluid from the reservoir drip out through the Saab

9000 headlight nozzles when I've changed those...
Reply to
Valjean
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You may have faulty check valves on the windshield sprayer nozzles, which are allowing air to flow into the system through the nozzles, thus allowing the fluid to trickle out the headlight sprayers. Perhaps you could test this by sealing the windshield sprayer nozzles with tape? If this is the problem, there are instructions on how to fix it here:

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(I used a piece of nitrile glove, which I think should be more resistant to methanol than natural latex)

John

Reply to
John B

It might well be the valves which are the problem, but I don't think they'll do it by letting in air from the screen jets, so the test might not work.

Are the headlight jets on a 9000 lower than the reservoir? If they are, then it probably relies on the fact that the valves need a bit of forward pressure to open, so the water doesn't just syphon out of the jets.

Since I've never seen a 9000 close-up, this could all be ollbox of course...

Cheers,

Colin.

Reply to
Colin Stamp

Actually John B is correct without hesitation...

If the top 2 L-valves (or either of them) leak then also the fluid leaks on the lamp nozzles. Also it does not matter how one re-routes the hoses,,, It still drops... The nozzles are btw all the time lower than the tank.

Another symptom for leaky L-valve(s) is the loooong time it takes the water to reach the upper nozzles and spray on the windshield or other nozzle might not spray at all.

I have figured it out to myself that there is kind of balance of "gentle" power among the valves. If one of them has a ruptured diaphragm the balance doesn't work and one of the lines will not spray at all or the car's eyes will be always wet...

If you blow air into the T-valve or L-valve gently and can feel or hear air blowing through then the valve is shot. One way is to suck vacuum and hold the vacuum with tongue...

Been there,, done that,,, it's not the T-Valve that leaks,,, it is the upper L-Valve(s)... It also took me a while to figure it out - and believe it.

I pierced a round piece of "rubber" from patch of bicycle tube repair kit to fix the valve.

SuoTimo _____________________________

Col>

Reply to
SuoTimo

lamp nozzles.

nozzles are btw

reach the upper

among the valves.

lines will

blowing through

L-Valve(s)...

fix the valve.

I didn't say it wasn't the valves. I said the tape-test might not work.

If the headlight nozzles are dribbling because air is being allowed back down the screen nozzles, then they should stop dribbling once the tubing to the screen is empty. The tape test should work in this case.

If, on the other hand, the dribble-water is coming from the reservoir, then the tape test won't work, and the incontinence will continue until the reservoir is empty.

If you know the layout of the system, then you should be able to tell which valve is leaking from which symptom the car is showing.

Cheers,

Colin.

Reply to
Colin Stamp

Well, you could always test it by clamping off the hoses.

John

Reply to
John B

There is a t-valve just near the resevoir that causes the leakage when it 's membrane ruptures. It needs pump pressure to open it to send water to the headlamps, and it should seal when the pump stops. I had this problem, now solved.

Reply to
Richard Sutherland-Smith

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