2000 Saturn LW2 IAT Sensor location?

Anyone know where exactly the IAT sensor is on this 3.0 L V6 (comes from Saab) engine? I've looked all over the intake area, can't find it. The sensor is small, has a two-wire plug.

DTC error indicated a bad IAT, P0113 "IAT sensor 1 circuit high input".

TIA

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Whats a LW2?... People keep leaving off the zero's for some reason.

Anyhow the IAT is built in with the MAF unit. They are recessed in with the air box/cleaner.

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blah blah

In 2000, they called it an LW2. In 2001 Saturn changed to LW200, or L200. WHen I look at my MAF, it's nothing but a tube with a grill at one end. I just replaced a bad MAF so I know it's not in the tube.

I've looked all around the airbox, took off the cover and looked under the filter etc. No wires, sensor mounts or sensors that I can see. Still can't find it.

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I thought that the LW2xx was a 4 banger. I have an '01 LW300 which is a 3L,

6Cyl. On mine, the MAF is in that tube with a grille on one end between the throttle body and the air filter. I can check the electrical connections later in the book but I think that it includes the intake air temperature sense too. The grille is to straighten out the airflow and reduce turbulence as the flow goes over the MAF element. Where did the Saab come from, I thought that the powerplant was designed in Germany by Opel.
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Oppie

Supposedly, Opel (GM) got the engine design from Saab, then incorporated it into Opel's line, then Saturn. But I think the Saab design was intended to be turbo charged, and was at Saab. Just stuff I heard around the net on this motor.

Well, Ill take ANOTHER look at this MAF. Maybe the IAT sensor goes inside it.

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IAT Sensor NOT in, on or around MAF sensor, on this motor...

Anyone?

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The engine is built in England. As to who designed it I am not sure but it is in my opinion a piss poor design. My manual calls the LW2 a LW200 in 2000. Anyhow...

YES THE MAF AND IAT are all in the same UNIT. I'm looking right here at an image of the schematics which clearly show the 2 sensors sharing the same wiring. There are purple/white and gray wires. Here's the removal and install procedures:

--------------------------------------------------------- Mass Air Flow (MAF)/Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor Replacement Removal Procedure

Object Number: 897187 Size: SH Click here for detailed picture of above image.

  1. Turn the ignition OFF. 2. Disconnect the mass air flow (MAF) sensor harness. 3. Remove the hose clamps from each end of the MAF sensor and remove the MAF sensor.

Installation Procedure

Object Number: 897187 Size: SH Click here for detailed picture of above image.

  1. Install the MAF sensor to the air cleaner box with the attachment clamps. Make sure the clamps are tight. 2. Connect the MAF sensor harness connector. Push the connector in until the lock position is felt, then pull back to confirm engagement.

---------------------------------------------------------

Need more proof than that?

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blah blah

Hmm this is odd. I bought a new MAF as I was getting DTC P0102 MAF Circuit Low input. I was also getting P0113 IAT Sensor 1 High Input. So, NAPA looks up the par ts for each. A new MAF was ordered and put in- $89. They also ordered a IAT sensor for about $12. This thing does not look like it can go in the MAF in any way, unless MAYBE you dissasemmble the MAF connector housing (which is held on by two screws but look like you shouldn't open it) and replace the innards.

What a piss-poor way to design the thing. The only part that can fail is the MAF innards (possibley what they are calling the IAT). SO if you IAT fails, your MAF fails. And, you should never have to buy a new MAF, unless it gets crushed in an accident or rusts out or something. But it's not real clear at all (esp to the auto parts people) the two are one and the same.

So now, if correct, I should have an extra IAT for when it the new MAF fails, which, being a Saturn part, shouldn't be too long. LOL

Thanks for the info. I really should get the manual for this f...... thing. At first I just really disliked looking under the hood of this thing. But now, I comprehend the true horror of what it is I bought back in 2000. As you have pointed out, being an ENGLISH design, I now understand why it is so completely whack.

What would you expect from a country that has no remaining, domestically-owned auto manufacturers....there is a reason for that, they simply don't know how to build 'em.

Maybe someone will steal it and I can dump it that way. Maybe, if I leave some cash on the hood, the keys in the ignition, and the car running, with a full tank of gas, a stash of crack and weed in the glovebox, and a case of cold 40 ouncers in the cargo area, and finally- a paid-for, semi-nude, semi-concious ho on extasy in the passenger seat and leave it in the worst ghetto-fied neighborhood in the biggest government housing project I can find.

Maybe.

THANKS!

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Actually, IIRC, the MAF is a 'hot wire' type and needs the air temp anyway, so the IAT signal is probbably just extracted out at the right point and sent along to the computer.

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Philip Nasadowski

Its possible one is causing the code for the other. If there is something wrong with the wiring for one then the other will have issues as well I think. Since the IAT sensor was the cheapest try installing it on your old MAF unit and see if that corrects the issue. That could save you 90 bucks.

Yeah those 3.0's arent pretty to look at.

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blah blah

The manual in print is fairly comprehensive but VERY poorly indexed. Last summer I got a P0495 (which is the same code as a loose gas cap). Turned out to be the charcoal canister vent solenoid was sticking open. Took me two days to find the valve, flipping pages in the manual. Finally found it by looking in the electrical diagrams book where it gave location. The manual on CD would be great but not at $400! I wrote to Helm who prints the manuals for GM and asked if they would consider a cross reference on paper or better yet on CD. Got back a terse response that they had forwarded my message to Saturn. Not likely that anything will happen but them sending a message to Saturn possibly carries a bit more weight than if I go direct.

Then there is Brit-bashing... I remember a thread some years back about the awful reliability of Lucas electrical systems. The response went something like - Q: Why to the Brits drink warm beer? A: Because Lucas makes refrigerators. Don't get me wrong, I like Monty Python, Junkyard wars and many of the Brit offerings.

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Oppie

Makes you wonder...why the hell is a solenoid required on the canister in the first place. Older cars that have these charcoal filters dont have solenoids running to them. Under what conditions would you ever want to CLOSE vent lines that are running to/from the charcoal canister.

More English stupidity?

These cars have so many new electrical points of failure (relays and solenoids) compared to older cars, you gotta wonder if the manufacturers are just trying to give dealers more service business...

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blah blah

No. Three letters....EPA

Most of this stuff does make cars run cleaner and more efficiently. How its all implemented is the key. If the engine compartment looks like a cluster f*@% take it as a hint not to buy it. That pretty much covers everything outside of the GM family and half of GM's fleet.

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blah blah

Or, you can go here:

formatting link
get the entire alldata GM collection- all 12 GB of it. Youll need the Alldata app as well, which is a separate d/l I believe. Better have a fast connection...

Cheers

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There is a canister integrity diagnostic that closes the vent, opens the purge solenoid and monitors a vacuum sensor attached to the canister. First it looks for a vacuum then closed the purge solenoid and looks for the rate of vacuum decay. This determines if there are any leaks and the magnitude of them. (sounds like sensormania driven by EPA)

The wiring is supposed to get better in the future. More and more control is done by CAN bus and other busses where the individual point to point wiring is replaced by addressable nodes. Only the one or two communication lines (depending on the communication bus/protocol) and power/ground are needed to each device. Of course, the down side of that is that since every node has a unique address, swapping left and right side window controls, for example, wouldn't work.

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Oppie

You will

Why? won't work on XP home edition or Win98 (that's my environment)

Reply to
Oppie

Because it has to be NT based and the none Pro versions dont have the architecture to run them. (Win2kpro will be my environment for a long long time.)

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blah blah

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