1963 Lark 4 parts needed?

Hello all:

Before I buy this car, I'd like to know if the following parts are available. it's a 2063 Lark 4cyl.:

Windshield gasket Rear light gasket Side window gaskets L/S tail lamp assy, or lens Formed floor panels Formed trunk floor panels Carburetor kit Complete engine gasket, or seperate pieces to do engine .010 or .020 oversize pistons and rings Bearings in .010 undersize Oil pump Master cylinder Wheel cylinders Clutch kit

I want to do a rotisserie restoration on this car.

Any help would be most greatly appreciated.

RK

Reply to
Refinish King
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I guess your Lark must be a 2063; seeing as the 1963s were only available with an inline six or a V8. It's nice to know that Studebaker Corporation will re-organize and get back to making cars sometime in the next 50 years or so.

On the off-chance that your IS a 1963, and that a quick look at the engine led you to believe it's only a 4 banger (it IS a lot shorter than comeptitive inline sixes), then, yes, all the stuff you ask for is available.

Classic Enterprises in Barron, Wisconsin are the source for the floor and trunk patch panels. Those panels are not a perfect fit, but they come pretty close, some hand work will be necessary to fit them.

SASCO in South Bend, Indiana will have most of the other parts on your list, and also have a stock of N.O.S. sheet metal parts, and also upholstery parts.

I'd recommend you go to and check out the site. That's the official Website for the Studebaker Drivers Club. They have a vendor's page on the site, and contact information for these and other vendors can be found there. I'd recommend that you join SDC; it's a great resource, and the monthly magazine, Turning Wheels, is worth the price of membership on its own. I'd also recommend that you order a shop manual, and chassis and body parts catalogs from one of the vendors. Some features on Studebakers are quite different from other cars, and the right way to do certain repairs is not always obvious. The manuals can save you a lot of grief.

Parts availability for Studebakers is actually remarkably good, and '63 lark stuff is plentiful. But you will do a lot better if you are plugged into the network by way of joining SDC and using the magazine, this newsgroup, and the SDC Web Forum.

Good luck with your Lark.

Reply to
Gordon Richmond

Thanks!

Today I was told it was a 59?

It is a 4 banger.

Thanks again,

Reply to
Refinish King

If it a 4 cylinder someone has been really creative, Studebaker only put inline 6's and V8's in them.

What does the tag on the door post say? It should start our either 59V or 59S.

Jeff DeWitt

Ref> Thanks!

Reply to
Jeff DeWitt

Thanks:

I'll actually be able to open the doors tomorrow.

Reply to
Refinish King

Reply to
blacklarkviii

"blacklarkviii carolina.rr.com>" If it is a 4 cylinder then it is not a stock Studebaker. Someone has done

Now that would be totally out-of-this-world if it actually IS one of the experimental Studes with the 139cid flat four prototype engine!!

Craig

Reply to
Craig Parslow

"I want to do a rotisserie restoration on this car.

Any help would be most greatly appreciated."

Everyone has skated around the real issue and that is the fact that unless this was an R1 or R2 Lark, it would be economically impossible to every recoup the money spent on a rotisserie restoration for a 6 cylinder lark. I guess you could if you kept the car for 60 years, so I guess my advice would be do not buy this car, spend a couple of months finding out about studebakers and what would be the car to buy. Even if this was grandma's car and had been in the family for 44 years and there was a connection that way, it still would not warrant a rotiseerie.

How long do you plan on keeping the car?

Bob M

Reply to
bob m

I found out today:

It's na 59 flathead 6 cyl.

The floors are perfect, the inner fenders are perfect.

It just needs fender top front corners, the back ends and to lower part, to the header fixed.

I've made several hundred panels by hand, so this would be a fun job for me.

The mouldings and grille are nice, but it needs front and rear glass gaskets. Whiskers on the doors and I think rubber for the 1/4 glas.

The price is right, and the CPI book that my friend has says: With 58,000 miles, and perfect. It's worth 6.5K.

Can someone please adevise It's for my six year old daughter's college fund.

Thank you to all. \ S>> "blacklarkviii carolina.rr.com>" >

Reply to
Refinish King

Take the money you would spend on the car and the price of the car and put it in an annuity for 12 years. So if you plan on your actual cost for restoration being 6K (I think that is low for a complete rotisserie for any car) An annuity that gains a conservative estimate of 8 percent would be worth 17,000 in 12 years for your daughters college.

Would anyone on the group right now pay 6,500 for a 1959 Lark 6 cylinder that was perfect? Better yet, would you pay $17,000 for one in 12 years? That is that the car in the 12 year period had not any wear or use on the car to factor in to make sure it was still perfect.

Buy it for the fun but don't bet the farm or your daughters college fund on it.

Free advice, worth every penny

Bob M

Reply to
bob m

The only problem with the CPI book value is that the car is supposedly PERFECT and ORIGINAL. Even if you do the work yourself, you're going to have most of that in materials making it truly perfect.

A 48-year-old car, no matter how well stored, is going to have wear and tear on the seat covers, windlace, carpets, rubber seals etc. and you'll have $1800 or better in that if you go for 'near correct' stuff (double that if you want 'correct' stuff). Add to that $700 or $900 in materials alone for the paint/body work.

To make the car mechanically new you're going to spend quite a bit as well (depending on what it needs). I would do nothing less than a complete and total brake system rebuild (shoes, cylinders, lines, hoses, turn/replace drums, bearings, seals) at a cost in the $300+ range in parts. The engine, at a minimum, should recieve a valve job and all new gaskets and seals. Rear axle should be serviced. Even with the lower miles, the front suspension will also, I am sure, require at least all new bushings and possibly king-pin rebuild and tie rod ends.

So, at this point, it's easy to see $4k or better spent on making the car 'as new' to get near a $6500 top value. This does not include your time, frustration, the purchase price of the car, and any incidentals that happen along the way. This also does not take into account that, no matter what the BOOK says, a 4-door sedan '59 Lark six-cylinder is probably going to bring $3k to $4k on the open market unless you find someone who REALLY wants it.

If you want to do the car for the fun and love of the car and to enjoy it, do it! If you're doing it to make money, forget it..... Not trying to rain on your parade... it's just that 4-door sedans are generally not money makers.

Lee DeLaBarre Daytona62

Reply to
Lee

I'm finishing a nice restoration of a 64 GT Hawk that the previous owner spent 51K on and I'm finishing the car after he died. I'm 6K more in the car so far and not near done. If you think you can do a whole car for 6K and make money, scroll down and read both pages here:

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bob m wrote:

Reply to
John Poulos

Amen Brothers!

Bob M

Reply to
bob m

Thanks for the advise.

RK

Reply to
Refinish King

I've been restoring cars for over 35 years,

Yes, I hand form panels also.

RK

Reply to
Refinish King

I appreciate the advice:

I was going to drive it for a summer or two, but with my luck.

An un-insured driver would total it on me.

LOL

RK

Reply to
Refinish King

I was 7 years old when my dad and I walked into the show room in Phoenix and we bought a Taihti Coral 59 lark 6 that my folks drove for

9 years. I had one and in a moment of weakness sold it for $1,000. I was a good running drive 6 with good floors and fair seats. I wish I had it back but it would only be a car for me to drive and remember my mom and dad.

Bob M

Reply to
bob m

I love buying a car, playing in the garage with it, driving it for a summer and letting it go. I, too, always worry about it getting hit but do carry full coverage on all my Studes "just in case".

While I don't see it as ever being a big money-maker, if it is something you enjoy and think you can at least break even on, it may not be a bad deal to do. You've seen the car in person and know what it needs and to what level you plan on taking it.

Lee DeLaBarre Daytona62

Reply to
Lee

One other thing to keep in mind; lots of body parts are still available. The entire front end of a lark will come off with removal of 8 bolts. The rear fenders also bolt on as well and those are still available as well as other sheet metal at SASCO. There is an abundance of parts available for the 59-60 larks and they are not as expensive as you might think.

2 cents again.

PS. I have a complete 59 lark 4 door in my back yard that needs everything that if you want you can come and get for free and has a title. I live in Tucson AZ. Front fenders are good floor is good but trunk has rust on right side.

Bob M

Reply to
bob m

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