Dana 27 - 1963 Lark

What ratio do you need?

I think it's a 331 Jerry. I will look tonight. It is a 1963 Daytona Convertible with a 6 cylinder with three on the tree and over drive.

I have a Dana 23 with a 4.27 ratio. That'll make that little six come alive.

I seriously doubt that, a 6/OD should have a 3.73:1 rear in it minimum, more likely a 4.xx

If it *does* have a 3.31 in it, a swap to a more OD-friendly ratio will give you a pleasant surprise.

nate

The act of pulling the pinion nut 'just to replace the seal' is asking for differential trouble. The torque put on that nut to set it properly for rotational drag was probably not set correctly. Dana is pretty specific about servicing and setting up their differentials. Jeff

"Michael - Roseland FL" wrote...

The bearing preload on this dana is set by shims not a crush sleeve, so when they torque the pinion nut they should be targeting a specific torque not a rotation drag such as is used by more so called modern differentials, (progress yeah right). Regardless don't give up on this rear if it didn't make noise before, take it to a different shop and have it repaired correctly. Inspect the yoke and if a grove is worn by the lip of the seal replace the yoke or use repair sleeve on the original. Russ

Went through the same thing on my 500 Festival Clone, put in a new pinion seal, and she roared like crazy, pulled the drive shaft back out, and "torqued" the pinion nut, quiet as a mouse now.

Jim Turner

Do you recall the tourge spec Jim?

Jim

Don't use an NOS seal, either! Use a modern rubber one, readily available at most good FLAPS. Toss the little goofy gasket behind it; the modern seals have a coating on the edge to seal them although I also use aviation Permatex on the edge. The "sealmeister" Jeffy might even know the numbers and have some more insight... If I was at the shop (just left!) I could give you a part #. Also make sure the seal surface on the flange is CLEAN and I usually take a piece of wet/dry sandpaper to it. If the seal surface is damaged, use a sleeve to repair it. Take it away, Jeff.... Studebaker George

Oh, and forgot...I have a bar with holes in it to hold the flange while the car is up in the air. NOT a good idea to count on the park pawl...and needed if your car is a standard... If you are REAL courageous and have an impact gun that you REALLY KNOW, then you can use that to tighten the nut. Studebaker George

George, if you run accross that part number I woulod really appreciate it. The new one I have in the car that is still leaking is from Studebaker International. I am wondering if it might be leaking because there is not enough torque on it though.

Well, it was on the car when I got it. It fits so well that it apears to be a factory accessory.

It is a national 5778.