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finally some progress...

spent today FINALLY putting stuff together. Saturday I went to torque down my flywheel and whoops, one of the bolts stripped. So I regrouped (after cussing and throwing things) and got some new Grade 8 bolts, ground one flat down on each one, and... well... you know. Most of a day to replace six stupid little bolts! They are about 3/64" longer than stock but there does not appear to be any kind of interference issue, and I feel better using new stuff. In a rare fit of inspiration, I remembered that the automatic cars had a big steel ring over the flexplate, so I used one of those rather than individual washers over the bolts. (aluminum flywheel, really needs flat washers and loctite rather than the stock lock washers) Seems like it ought to work at least as well, and looks better, and less stuff to drop. Got the clutch, bellhousing, and trans mounted for real - now I just need my shifter and I can put it in the car. (I decided not to use the stock shifter because it's a rattly POS; so I am getting one of Thibeault's Hursts with the stock-looking shift lever.)

Also got my aluminum manifold back... it fits the heads all right now (thanks Jeff! the new setup must be working for you,) but I've still got some work to do to make it and the valley pan play nice with each other. Will finish that up tomorrow, and then assess what I need to do to make the carb play nice with everything else. I think I need a spacer but not sure how thick it has to be. After that... well... I think JP is going to make me paint under the hood while the engine is out, but I really, REALLY hate paint prep... it's got to be right up there with in-the-car rod bearing swaps as jobs that I'd rather just pay someone to do...

I'd post pics but I was so busy working that I didn't take any!

nate

Reply to
Nate Nagel
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Sometimes people use a product known as 'Jamb It' (sp.) or something similar. You spray it on hard-to-prep areas like door jambs, trunks, etc. just before painting. It helps the paint adhere and I think prevents fisheye too.

Reply to
Dwain G.

I haven't even thought that far ahead... right now the biggest challenge is getting the top layer of paint off. The car was originally blue, then resprayed black (fairly well) then resprayed black again, and the underhood prep the second time around was... not so good.

I see (gazes into crystal ball) lots of sanding in my future :(

nate

Reply to
Nate Nagel

There's NO substitute for properly prepping for paint! Spend the time and do it RIGHT! otherwise, you'll bitch about the peeling paint in the jambs and on the firewall in a year or two!

Jim Turner

Reply to
Jim Turner

I'm bitching about it now! I just don't want to be the guy to fix it... :/ I wish the last guy to paint this car had listened to you; I'd rather deal with thin paint than peeling paint any day.

nate

Reply to
Nate Nagel

Glad it finally fit right... But dang it.. I was looking at the bottom of that manifold and seeing that it is solid filled (no heat crossover passages), that it would be easy to mill off a half inch on the bottom. That way you wouldn't have to mill the rectangular section off of your finned valley cover. Shoulda woulda coulda.. Sorry. I shoulda called you. Maybe someone local can do that... If you want. send it back to me and I'll do it right away.. Jeff

"Nate Nagel" wrote...

Reply to
Jeff Rice

Glad it finally fit right... But dang it.. I was looking at the bottom of that manifold and seeing that it is solid filled (no heat crossover passages), that it would be easy to mill off a half inch on the bottom. That way you wouldn't have to mill the rectangular section off of your finned valley cover. Shoulda woulda coulda.. Sorry. I shoulda called you. Maybe someone local can do that... If you want. send it back to me and I'll do it right away.. Jeff

"Nate Nagel" wrote...

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Reply to
Jeff Rice

No need, I just took my angle grinder and clearanced it there. What was a problem was the #1 intake runner, I had to clearance the fins on the valley pan where it dropped down, apparently the LS manifold is lower profile than the stock one. Was a little hesitant to take the metal off the manifold as was afraid of busting through into the runner. Works good now, would have posted pics of what I did but power was out when I got home last night, pics are still stuck in digicam.

nate

Jeff Rice wrote:

Reply to
N8N

Well, your particular manifold is a few thousandths lower than normal, due to the additional milling to straighten it out. Glad the fix was easy. But why the spacer? Does something hit? I tried an AFB on it the first time it was here and IIRC it didn't hit. Just curious.. Jeff

"N8N" wrote...

Reply to
Jeff Rice

I dunno, I am using an AVS which should be about the same thing. The throttle linkage hits the fake exhaust crossover on the driver's side, but just barely. I don't want to zing that off because I was going to use it for the throttle return spring...

nate

Jeff Rice wrote:

Reply to
N8N

My son saw some small block aluminum heads at a flea market recently- very cheap. He was about to suck them up when he notice that someone had apparently tried to port them and had cut through from one passage to the next. Paul Johnson

Reply to
Paul Johnson

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