Halogen headlights for my 64 Daytona?

Halogen sealed beams are available at your FLAPS and drop right in. You can also get European lens/reflector assemblies that drop in in place of the sealed beams and take H4 (outer) and H1 (inner) bulbs, but they are more expensive and not technically legal most places (although for a daily driver IMHO they are worth it for the better light on the road, and the better beam pattern with a sharper low beam cutoff so as not to dazzle other traffic)

best bang for your buck headlight wise IMHO is to add a relay harness and *then* upgrade your bulbs. I've done both on my Porsche; running a relay harness with Cibie E-codes, they're amazing. I have a set of (really illegal) 90/100W H4 bulbs for them, but I've never been tempted to put them in, they work fine with the regular 55/60W bulbs for 99% of the driving I'd ever do.

nate

The round sealed-beam halogen bulbs are getting harder to find, but most AP stores still stock them. Much brighter and less power than a conventional bulb.... Forget Wallyworld, or K-mart type stores... Ray

D>Heard you could buy them. Where can I find them and do they fit or

I've got Sylvania high output halogens in my Champ and that thing has the best lights of anything I've ever driven, including my Cherokee which has the same lights only square.

It's an easy upgrade, all you do is change the headlamps just like if one had burned out.

BUT the halogens draw more power than the original lights and may make your headlight circuit breaker trip... as happened to me one dark night on the Blue Ridge Parkway. I added a relay to handle the load and haven't had a problem since.

Jeff DeWitt

Best 'bang for the buck' would be a .44 mag to punch holes in the engine blocks of the a$$holes with their fart-piped ricers blinding people in the city (where there's enough light to drive without headlights if you have to) with their 'hey, look at how cool I am' hi-watt halogens.

IMHO, of course.

Nate Nagel wrote:

Those are probably actually HID's (often some horrible homebrew conversion that doesn't really work well at all.) The E-code halogens are quite inoffensive and actually *appear* dimmer to oncoming traffic than US-spec lights... until you hit the high beams, that is.

I switched the Porsche to E-codes when I was still working in MD... my commute home every night was mostly a completely unlit, windy two-lane... and when I say unlit, I mean DARK... (MD 197 through the Patuxent Wildlife Research Center for those familiar with the area) Don't get me wrong, I love Porsches, but the stock headlight wiring was CRAP, I got a premade relay harness and the E-codes as a package deal and went from having the worst headlights of any car I'd had to the best. I've had people follow me in the car and also seen it head on at night, the lights are very dim appearing unless you get down low to the ground, then WOW...

nate

Pat Drnec wrote:

Kerfill thar' podnah, We might hafta relocated your confrontational butt to eastern TN...

JT

Pat Drnec wrote:

yes it is. The relay(s) that I use have 4 terminals (use constant duty not intermittiant duty, i.e. foglight relay not a horn relay) One goes between the battery terminal and the load (headlight) and use heavy wire (10 gauge), one is the load ground (also use heavy wire) then there is a relay control (use existing wire to headlight) and relay control ground (can use existing wire. I use one for lo beams and one for hi beams. I use H-4 lights with motorcycle bulbs (higher vibration resistance and also killer outputs available call me if you want a walk thru. Calvin 864-547-0272

see here:

http://danielsternlight> I'm not very good electronically. Is adding a relay easy?

I think the "motorcycle bulbs" you refer to are the same or similar to what I was referring to as "E-codes" in my previous post. For some reason NHTSA allows ECE spec headlights to be used on motorcycles but won't approve them for general passenger car use. Why, I dunno, as they're demonstrably better in just about every way, except for NHTSA's argument that they don't allow enough stray light above the low beam cutoff to properly illuminate unlighted overhead signs (seriously, I couldn't make that up if I tried, that's their argument.) Of course that same sharp cutoff is what allows you to aim your low beams for best vision without worrying about blinding oncoming traffic. They also have a kickup in the beam pattern on the curb side to illuminate street side signs (or deer, if you live in a better area) which is very obvious, if you pull up to a garage door and turn on the lights, your cutoff looks like this:

(dark) / ______/ (light)

nate

I bought a kit designed for driving lights, it had the relay along with a fuse holder, a bunch of wire and connectors.

I just clipped the wire going to the high beams and connected it to the relay, and then connected the relay to the other end of the cut wire. The fuse holder was used on the hot side of the relay, and I screwed the thing to the front of the engine compartment behind the battery near the lights, you can't even see it.

Jeff DeWitt

D> I'm not very good electronically. Is adding a relay easy?

Short guy gun No good inside, or at night Jeff (deaf, blinded, and then dumb in a dark room with a .44 mag once....) Rice

"Pat Drnec" wrote...

Read more carefully - perfect gun for engine blocks. I also have my pick of .45ACP (S&W or Colt 1911), 9mm (S&W model 39 double action), .45LC (single action wheel gun), .380 (Colt Mustang) and several nobody needs to know about.

You'd have to be pretty dumb to pull the trigger on a .44 in a dark room. Must be big dumb redneck syndrome

Jeff Rice wrote:

You lived to tell about it. She left the bedroom window open, eh?