sorta OT but not really: electric fuel pumps

Part of the reason I have been resistant to adding an electric fuel pump to my car is the fact that I didn't like most of the installs that I've seen from an electrical standpoint. But thinking towards running an R1 in my car has made me wonder if maybe it wouldn't be a good idea to just go ahead and do it. I like the way that VW controls their electric fuel pumps... check it out:

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would make a nice, safe install that would automatically prime the carb before starting (there's a 5 second delay from power on before it shuts off the pump.) No flipping toggle switches or relying on an oil pressure switch to shut the car down in the event of a stall. those of you who like me have messed with WCVWs in the past may already have a few spare fuel pump relays laying around. The only thing I might add to the circuit is a rollover switch.

nate

Reply to
N8N
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Reply to
Oujdeivß

Nate

Adding an electric pump can be done safely without all that. I simply plumb in a fuel return line into the gas tank filler neck.

Instead of wiring the pump directly from the ignition switch use an inline toggle so you can switch it off but wire the power feed from the accessory post instead of the ignition. This way you can turn the ignition switch to the accessory position when the car has been sitting for a long time to prime the fuel system and the ignition is not turned on. Also there is no worry about over priming because if you use one of those after market fuel filters wityh a return fitting to start the return back to the tank once the carb is primed the fuel flow diverts to the return line and back to the tank.

This setup also eliminates the blasted vapors and keeps the fuel cooler.

You can even do like I did on my V8 T cab run dual electrics in parellel. That way if one pump fails you still have one to limp home.

Reply to
Studebaker Kid

Nate

Adding an electric pump can be done safely without all that. I simply plumb in a fuel return line into the gas tank filler neck.

Instead of wiring the pump directly from the ignition switch use an inline toggle so you can switch it off but wire the power feed from the accessory post instead of the ignition. This way you can turn the ignition switch to the accessory position when the car has been sitting for a long time to prime the fuel system and the ignition is not turned on. Also there is no worry about over priming because if you use one of those after market fuel filters wityh a return fitting to start the return back to the tank once the carb is primed the fuel flow diverts to the return line and back to the tank.

This setup also eliminates the blasted vapors and keeps the fuel cooler.

You can even do like I did on my V8 T cab run dual electrics in parellel. That way if one pump fails you still have one to limp home.

Reply to
Studebaker Kid

I know that, I just wanted to get away from the toggle switch so the car wouldn't have "special instructions." It's just one of those things, I want to build an old car, preferably with as many vintage style parts as possible, that works completely like a new car - just to prove I can do it :)

I am thinking of possibly doing what you suggest with the fuel filter - either a correct R1 filter if I can find it or one of the disposable MoPar ones that works the same way.

Question: with an Edelbrock, can you use a Holley "red" pump without a FPR, or is the FPR required? Pegasus sells the "blue" pump with FPR combo for only a couple bucks more, but I'm not sure if that's overengineering the system or not.

nate

Reply to
N8N

Nate

I used the red pump in my T cab with a single Stromberg WW 18 years ago until the pump started leaking . It took about five years of "normal driving" for the leak to start so I know it will work as long as you use it with a recirculation type filter.

Reply to
Studebaker Kid

Sorry for the double posts some times but sometimes it happens as I have my lap top set up to use two ISPs one dialup and one highspeed and sometimes when I respond they both kick in.

Reply to
Studebaker Kid

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