Weak spark at coil, none at plugs! HELP!

It ran last year, this is the first I tried to fire it up this year.

Chip

Try using a pencil eraser on all contacts in the high voltage side or sand paper on the cap contacts. Time does an excellent job on oxidizing contacts made of brass.

Did you bypass the pink resistor wire (COMPLETELY) in the ignition system?

Ray

snipped-for-privacy@cox.net wrote:

if my car sits, the FIRST thing is crawl under the hood, and take FINE sand paper and 'dress the points..or it wont start --Shiva--

Yup. That's the one that is originally on the ballast resistor, yes?

Chip

Studeman wrote:

I would do that but I have no points. It's an electronic ignition.

Chip

Could the ballast resistor be the problem?

Chip

snipped-for-privacy@cox.net wrote:

Richard Lawler

'57 1/2 ton Transtar '51 2dr Champion

I didn't think the EI had to have a ballast resistor. If yours is still in-line, it could be the problem. Also... (and I don't know WHY it does this) You must remove the pink-wire from the system completely... disconnected at the ignition switch (or junction block on Hawks w/tach). Don't leave it wired-up, thinking the juice is going to flow through the "other" wire instead. It's OK to leave the coil-end connected to the green-w/black tracer solenoid bypass wire. I had the same trouble with my '61 Hawk, and later a '63 Wagon. I used the Petronix in the '61. I just "added" an extra wire to power the coil... without disconnecting the pink resistor wire. It still didn't start easily.

I "heard" that if you turn your Petronix equipped ignition on and wait

Ray

Studeman wrote:

My experience with MoPar electronic ignitions (in MoPars) is that the pickup unit in the distributor is a common failure. You might make sure everything in the head of the distributor is clean. Paul Johnson

electronic ignitions dont NEED ballast resistors..usually.

--Shiva--

This one came with it from Dave T-Bolt.

Chip