changing rear brake pads - post mortem questions

Hi,

First I am really satisfied I did it on my own. Quite an easy procedure. For the record - car has got 94K miles on it. Here are a few highlights/questions:

1- in order to release the line pressure (enforced by ABS), I read somewhere to depress brake pedal 10-20 times before the job. So I did it. But does it make sense?

2- the OEM brake pad kit purchased from the dealer did not contain the grease (as opposed to front pad kit I got some time before). So i did not apply anything, is that okay?

3-pushing back pistons 1: I wish I had the special spreading tool (are such available). C-clam did the job but it took some time to learn how to do that.

4-pushing back pistons 2: I did it very slowly however read somewhere that the fluid can come out of the reservoir or somehow it is easy to screw up this part. Is it really a deal here (in case of subies)?

5-the nuts - what is the torque value for caliper bolts? I mounted them quite tight but since I have torque wrench, I would like to make an use of it.

6-it was a last call to change the rear pads (first time in the cars life). They were worn out almost to the metal. Fortunately, the rotors seems be in perfect condition.

Regards, Andy

Reply to
alf
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There are such things available, but I used either a c clamp and a block of wood or actually an empty caulk gun worked too.

If your reservoir is full no matter how fast or slow you go, you need to worry about overflow. If you can have someone keep an eye on it as you compress that's ideal.

Cool!

I don't know the answers to the other questions. I don't believe I used grease on the last change I did, and later learned that was a mistake. I'm under the slight inclination to saying it's needed both front and back, ideally. But I'm far from feeling authoritative on that.

-- Todd H.

2001 Legacy Outback Wagon, 2.5L H-4 Chicago, Illinois USA
Reply to
Todd H.

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