fuel system failure

May 01, 2010 11 Replies

I have a 1988 GL wagon 1.8 L SPFI (EA-82), manual transmission with



4WD. Lately it's been difficult to start up, but once it starts it runs fine until this week when it finally quit. I don't drive the car that often these days, so it hasn't been much of a concern, especially considering how busy I have been with school this semester.

To get the car going I would pour some fuel from a little jug I kept in the car into the intake manifold and crank it a few times until I got ignition, but since Tuesday I haven't been able to get that to work.



All of the components of the secondary ignition system (spark plugs, spark cables, cap, rotor, even the coil) are relatively new, and I've verified ignition on all of the cylinders with a timing light. Thus, I believe that it is a fuel problem. The car has had low fuel pressure for a few years. I know this because when I replace the fuel filter it doesn't spew very much at all. I don't know how low it is, and I don't have any way of measuring it. Back when it was running, when I started it up it often would have very low horsepower for several minutes until it got warmed up.



I'm wondering whether the problem is the fuel pump or the fuel injector or maybe something else. Is there any way to test these components before going to the junk yard?


Justin


Air leak between the air flow sensor and the intake manifold??

Mmmmm, if you squirt raw fuel into the intake, and crank the starter, she ought to fire, even if only for a couple revolutions, independent of whatever the EFI system is or isn't doing.. If this isn't happening, I'd check the ignition timing and engine compression to see why not. Earlier GL's had the fuel pump external to the tank, but I _think_ the EFI versions had an in-tank pump. In either event, you can put a pressure gauge (most any 100PSI brass gauge with appropriate fittings will do) in the line ahead of the injectors (the line between the fire wall and engine is a good spot), manually powering the fuel pump, and check for adequate pressure. What's "adequate"? Don't know, I'd think you'd want to see at least 45PSI or so. Usually, you can also check the injectors by dismounting then individually, and having someone work the starter while you watch the injector. Should give a nice even spray as it fires. I don't recall if these engines had a "cold-start" injector, or simply increased the duration of the regular ones for cold start enrichment, but either way there is a coolant temperature sensor that controls this function. If it isn't giving the ECU the proper signal, cold starts will never happen unless you give it a little juice manually as you've described. These tests are dangerous, so be careful, OK? Real easy to change a cool old GL into a torch, not to mention it's owner. Don't go there. It's really good practice to have someone standing by with a fire extinguisher just in case. I might have a paper manual with nfo on the EA-82 EFI system stashed out in the garage. If you get stuck, drop a line and I'll see if I can't find it, scan the appropriate pages and send 'em along. Good luck, and again, BE CAREFUL! ByeBye! S. Steve Jernigan KG0MB Laboratory Manager Microelectronics Research University of Colorado (719) 262-3101

This model has just one large injector. The fuel pump is external and located in front of the RR wheel. Fuel pressure runs between 30 and

40 lbs. The system uses a CTS, coolant temperature sensor, to assist cold starts. The ECU uses the coolant temperature to know whether the engine is cold or hot. If cold, then it increases the injector pulse. Sort of performs the same function as a choke. But as Steve pointed out, the engine should have fired when gasoline was added through the intake manifold.

May want to try a shot of starting fluid. Just a small amount because too much and it can blow a hole in a piston.

When cranking the engine you should be able to see fuel being sprayed by the injector. Have to remove the air intake plumbing.

If you know for a fact the engine has good spark I would clean the CTS and if that accomplished nothing, would replace the entire throttle body with another from a wrecking yard. These things used cost next to nothing.

(Steve, rearranged your post just a little..)

Gasoline injectors aren't as bad as diesel ones (those can actually cut a finger off), but don't put any body parts in front of the injector nozzle.

The injector can force gasoline thru the skin, similar to those "jet needles' used for vaccinations. It's not an "instant death" item, but it can be extremely hazardous to your health.

If you need something to check for spray, aim it at a small piece of smooth cardboard.

As Steve said, this one's dangerous.

Had another thought about this. What if the problem is too much fuel? This would explain why adding fuel didn't work. Attempt to start the engine and then pull a spark plug. Wet plug means the engine is flooded. Had a GM car once that did this.

Any progress made?

The no-start condition could also be timing belt related. Sometimes the timing belt will shred before breaking and throw the timing way off. Had it happen once.

Holding a strip of paper at the tailpipe while someone cranks the engine might indicate if the TB has slipped. The paper will try to suck IN to the pipe.

Sorry for getting back so late. Finals are finally over. Yes, there is only one fuel injector and it sits in the center of the throttle body just above the butterfly plate, and the fuel pump is external. No, the intake is in good condition, appears to have no leaks. The car will chug for a few revolutions after I've dumped a little fuel in before running out. Sometimes only two cylinders will fire because the car is not on a level surface and the fuel will drain to one side. Usually it helps for me to wait a few minutes for the fuel to evaporate inside the intake manifold and combustion chambers.

I'm confident the timing is good because I changed the timing belts about 3 years/15,000 miles ago. Today I finally got around to looking at it again. After cranking it a couple of times I opened up the throttle and gently pulled the fuel injector out with some channel lock pliers. The fuel rail comes in into the side of the throttle and through a little hole in the side of the injector. When I pulled out the injector, pressure from the fuel supply rail spewed a significant amount into the throttle chamber. It looks like I'm going to the junk yard this week. Fuel injectors are $7 there, but $500 at autozone, which happens to be the amount I paid for the car 5 years ago.

Justin

I put in a junkyard fuel injector today and the car runs like new, except that it's burning coolant, but that's a long story.

Justin

Well, that was yesterday, but now I'm stuck with the same problem again. I'm not getting any computer codes, so my best guess is that it has to be the computer itself.

just a crazy idea, is there fuel pressure regulater maybe on the end of the 'rail' or somehwere? maybe it's stuck open or compromised somehow.

Weird how it seemed to work after your repair - that could be a clue.

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