In another vehicle application (which I can't talk about for obvious reasons) we treat high oil consumption engines with a mix of regular engine oil and Marvel Mystery Oil 50:50 for an oil change. We run the HELL out of the engines with this mix for a hundred hours, and 95% of the engines loosen up the oil rings and get back to normal oil usage.
Does this work for the Soob 2.5L engine?
Jim
Sure does! works best with mothballs in the gas tank, some recapped tires and some sawdust in the rear end to quiet the loose gears. Also add some "Bar's Stop Leak" to the coolant system to make sure it don't leak.If the battery is a little on the weak side (have to jump start it a few times a week) just flush that battery out with a garden hose and refill it.
ARE YOU KIDDING? if that's how "WE" service an engine at your place I wouldn't take a bicycle to you for repair/ tune-up....
I'm coming to the conclusion that modern engines are so different than the old chunks of iron we old-timers are used to that what you posted should be on the wall of every DIYers work garage. The old ways are sure to ruin a modern engine.
Mike
up the oil rings and get back to normal oil usage.
And the other 5%? Do they grenade themselves or what?
Rick
No, they are simply so coked up that you could soak the rings in lacquer thinner and they wouldn't loosen up. Top overhaul time.
Jim
Mike ...
I'm curious. As one of those "old timers" who cut their teeth on straight-6 chevies without pressure rod bearings ("scoop" system) I'd like to know how the "old ways" will ruin a modern engine. Last time I looked, modern engines still worked on the suck-squeeze-bang-blow routine with large pieces of iron flailing about wildly. Lots of round parts, practically no square parts, and a few elliptical parts.
I seem to remember a comment also about "modern high-compression engines" in this thread. My book has the 2.5L as a 9.7:1 motor which isn't enough of "high compression" to warrant anything but plain old 87 octane regular gas.
Hey, I'm here to learn, not to argue, but I like some basis for understanding what I hear. As the saying goes, I keep an open mind, but not so open that my brains fall out.
Jim
Ed, are you actually endorsing auto-rx or was that a joke?
I tend to agree, to a point. There is little difference between the way older cars and today's modern cars work. Today's cars are just more complicated when it comes to fuel delivery, and the electrical systems contain more electronic parts to make them more reliable.
I would try the new oils that are made for high-mileage cars to cut down on consumption and increase compression. From what I'm told, these are not mystery oils, but just heavier blends to make up for the wear.
BTW, when I worked at a place that has a forklift, we used to drain the oil periodically and run a solvent through it for about 10 minutes, then replace the oil. A lot of crap came out, but I'm not sure if it did a lot of good.
It really isn't the compression I'm worried about, but the changes made to improve performance, reliability and longevity at the cost of being less tolerant of abuse, including the addition of foreign substances. I've considered making a list (in no particular order, you'll notice) for my own reference, including more than just the engine per se:
1) Fill the radiator from the garden hose 2) If the coolant is low, drive a ways until the temperature guage gets high, then let it cool and repeat until you get to a water hose 3) A roll of toilet paper is an acceptable replacement for the oil filter cartridge (one of my mother's favorite tricks!) 4) If the battery dies, jump start from another car and let the alternator charge the battery. 5) If the battery doesn't seem to be charging, start the engine and lift the battery cable to see if it will run on the alternator alone 6) A couple quarts of ATF in the crankcase is a good way to ensure the sludge doesn't build up too much 7) If the engine is overheating, remove the thermostat 8) Any old transmission fluid will do, unless it's a Ford or Mercury (those use Type F) 9) Transmission fluid never needs to be changed 10) If you are stuck in the mud, "rock" the car out by rhythmically shifting between drive and reverse 11) If the engine stalls on hot days, wet down the fuel pump to relieve the vapor lock 12) A little bit of ping is normal climbing hills on hot days - it won't hurt anything (another of my mother's favorites, but she never had a broken piston ring that I know of) 13) Oil is oil 14) All antifreeze is the same... in fact, all brake fluids and power steering fluids are the same except that weird English stuff 15) You don't need antifreeze if the temperature never gets below freezing 16) If the engine just won't start, use a rope to tow the car home. If it's an automatic, keep the speed down to 35 mph. 17) The only preventive maintenance a car ever needs is an occasional oil change 18) The owner's manual is unnecessary - all cars are basically the same 19) If the air filter is dirty, bang it on the ground a few times to knock the dirt offWhat have I forgotten?
I realize most of those were poor practice even in their time, but American engines lasted about 100K miles before the wear was obscene whether we did those things or whether we followed today's standards.
take out the sparkplugs, file the electrodes flat again, re-gap them, put 'em back on. No new washers - just really wrench 'em on tight.
Carl
Hi,
You never need to change the oil if you just change the filter every
2000 miles.Batteries will last forever if you just pour in a package of that magic stuff you buy at the county fair.
Rick
If I'm not mistaken, this list was actually copied directly from an old British car owner's manual. :-)
You are CORRECT! It's "word for word" right out of a owners manual for a "MG"
My secret is out!
Mike (former Lotus owner)
In the mid to late 90s when working as a cashier, it seemed that Marvel Mystery Oil was sold primarily to senior citizens - like 70+ or so. That was just my unscientific observation.
Probably right up there with STP.
My grandfather put a can in with every oil change.
This may surprise the hell out of you, but today most mechanics use, and we teach in school, that a mix of 50-50 oil/stp is the preferred mixture to coat pistons and rings when inserting them in the barrel during an overhaul.
Jim
Not sure what your point is. Any thick lubricant that will prevent metal to metal contact until the oil pressure comes up will work. And that only takes a few seconds. The stickiness of STP could certainly be useful in this application.
Personally, I've used NAPA assembly lube when I've overhauled bike engines.
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