Oil leak '98 2.2

Sounds about right considering the year and miles on the car. IME, front crank seals start to become suspect after around 75k or so--on lots of cars, not just Subies. Time and heat will often get them if the miles don't, too.

Personally, I'd think if you are any kind of a "wrench" at all, you'll be able to do the work easily with the book in one hand and wrenches in the other! The job's not hard, but IS time consuming, especially that first time when you only get to work with one hand cuz the other's holding the book! Allow yourself a weekend first time--after that, it's much faster. And do a search here for tips on getting the pulley bolt out of the crank--people have various ways depending on what tools they have available: an air wrench makes short order of the job if you have one.

While you're in there, you should also replace the cam seals, and all the seals on the oil pump (O-rings on back, shaft seal on front) and check any belt tensioners for roughness--replace as necessary. Many people will suggest replacing the water pump, too, since you've already done the work of getting to it. Even if you don't replace the pump, be sure to put a new bypass hose on it if your pump uses one (little "L" shaped guy, about 4" or so long.)

New timing belts... that's kind of a judgment call. If you've only got a few thousand miles on existing belts, you might be ok reusing old ones, unless they've got oil on them. Then I'd replace 'em. And go with Subaru OEM belts--there seems to be a big difference in quality and longevity between them and aftermarket.

Best of luck!

Rick

Gotta agree with Rick - sounds like you're up for the job. Don't skimp or get in a hurry, taking out the radiator is safest IIRC. I think if you have 10K or more miles on it I'd change the belt. Tensioer/idler pulley bearings shold be wiggled. Its a shame when an idler freezes and burns through a blet 13K after changing it because you didn't want to spend an xtra $30 on the job.(that's what happened to me once.) On some soobs engines, there are screws and an o-ring seal on the back of the oil pump that need attention. I'd check the repair manual and search the forums for pictures/description of the job at

YOU CAN DO IT!

Carl

Rick Courtright wrote:

Lots of good advice here so far. The biggest problems I had with this job were A) removing the crank pulley. Mine was rusted on. I soaked it with Liquid Wrench & pushed & pulled from all angles to no avail. Eventually managed to move it from underneath with a pry bar; and B) removing the old seals... they had become brittle & would either break apart or bend the seal picks. Again, managed in the end, but very frustrating. I then spent time cleaning up the various shafts with very fine sandpaper followed by a last go round with newspaper. Finally C) reseating the new seals. I could push them so far by hand, but could not get enough leverage to fully seat them in that confined apace. I ended up using a lever type valve spring compressor pushing down on the old seal,pushing down on the new seal.

I also elected not to change the cam belt tensioner, which then gave up the ghost about 2,500 miles later at 85mph on a freeway, allowing the cam belt to slip. Fortunately a 2.2 non-interference engine, so had it towed home & did it right, sigh.

Chris

Replacing the crank seal and cam seals,timing belt, and resealing the oil pump (don't want to do it all again right?) is extremely easy. It does take some time but not much can be done wrong...get a manual...even if it the Haynes that only goes to '96. TG

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