The last straw.....

After I back out in the am, after making my usual turning stop (left or right), the first brake application at the end of the street (180yds) has always made a bit of a clunk; in this GT and in my previous car (a Mazda). It was just the pads shifting around slightly. At one point it disappeared, (weak retainer springs replaced?) but when i replaced the generic pads with the better of two Mazda pads, it was back... It was not a serious sounding clank, though. More like when the car sits and cools down after a drive in the rain, the rotors get slightly rusted and when the car first gets driven the pads break free of the rotors. Terry - '03 Silver Legacy SE sedan - 36 miles! '02 Regatta-Red GT wagon 5spd - 23k miles Yakima / TandeMover / Rockymount rack To reply, get rid of the "nonsense"

The sound (clunk) is probably the automatic ABS test. All ABS cars do this.

certificate

All? My Volvo did it, very audibly, but I've never heard it in the wife's Forester. Nor have I heard it in the Infiniti that replaced the Volvo.

And with the Volvo it was one clunk at around 15 or 20 mph, not "several load clunks/slaps (metal hitting metal)".

I didn't always hear it in my Camry, but I know it did it. If the radio is on, noise outside, etc. it would be drowned out. Anyway, it was the second poster's noise I was referring to, not the OP. If the brakes are down to metal, the test could make that sound, but you'd probably hear it whenever you stepped on the brakes.

Wouldn't he have noticed it before? I assume this is a new noise...

-DanD

Too bad about your dealer service expierence. Would like to know what dealer you used??

cv joint.

jm2c ken

The verdict is in Dealer A fscked it up!

Two weeks ago took it to dealer 'A' for 15k/30k service they were supposed to:

Two days later the symptoms started: Snapping/Popping noise in right front wheel when turning

Took it to dealer 'B' (from the service report Checked for clunk noise on turns, found the front pads worn unevenly, causing pads to c*ck in holders. Machined front rotor (rust ridge in center face of both rotors), Replaced front disc pads, cleaned & lubed caliper sliders

After removing rear wheels for inspection and reinstalling wheels, roadtest again, noise is gone

So what happened?

Talked to the mechanic he stated that rear wheels was not centered on the lugs, which is what caused the helicopter noise. Also, at least one wheel nut was loose (I turned it by hand). As for the caliper when Dealer 'A' removed it to inspect it, they 1, failed to notice that the pads were wearing unevenly, 2 failed to acknowledge rust ridge on rotor, and 3 by removing it they caused it snap and pop as the caliper pressed the now freed uneven pads. Now the back wheel, the mechanic said that the wheel locked 'cocked'. He said this is caused by a few things. Of them them dealer 'A' failed to torque the nuts in the correct order leaving the un-centerd or overtorqued them or undertorqued them. I'm putting my money on the first and last scenario here's why. 2 month prior to this the car was taken to dealer 'A' to have the wheels replaced due to corrosion. After getting the car home I checked the torque on the wheels. Front right wheels-all 5 lug nuts could be taken off with 2 fingers. Left rear wheel 2 lug nuts could be removed with fingers. So, dealer 'A' has a history of not correctly torqueing the wheel nuts.

All that said, at least the wheel didn't fall off as I do 90% highway driving. Dealer 'B' is getting an A+ survey for quickly and correctly diagnosing the problem As this is Dealer 'A' 5th failed attempt at servicing my vehicle (5 different visits (recalls, various warranty work) both the owner and Subaru will be getting a complete service history and the problems encountered.

If you wonder who dealer A is hint: (search google for some of my previous posts I used to call them the best)