The torque setting given in maintenance manual for oil drain plug is
measured when the plug is coated with oil, or when it is dry?
I hope it's the first case, because there is no easy way to remove all oil
from the drain plug and the drain hole.
On the other hand, if the figure given is measured when dry and I follow it
without cleaning off the oil, I would end up overtightening the plug.
What's the correct thing to do?
Actually I don't think it matters. Whether wet or dry, you will NOT be
seating the plug against the pan. The point is to crush the sealing
ring enough to ensure it seals, and that means the plug is NOT up
against the pan.
The idea is to compact the sealing ring but not destroy it by overly
crushing it. The torque rating is for when using an air wrench or other
tool that simply snaps onto the plug. However, it is likely you will be
using a wrench with a handle so you can easily guage how much you rotate
Turn the plug by your fingers until it is tight. Rotate an additional
(pick just one):
- 1/4 turn for "solid" metal gasket seal.
- 1/3 turn for formed metal gasket or plastic ring.
You do NOT want to cinch the oil plug up against the pan. If there is
still a drip after torquing as directed above, rotate a maximum of a
further 1/4 turn. If there is still a drop, get a new gasket/ring.
If you're doing your own oil change, replace the sealing ring. Oil
change shops don't (unless you ask and they carry the part). Rather
than rely on a prior-crushed ring, use a new one.
Good post. Additionally, double check that the the original factory
washer is not painted in place. Particularly if this is the first oil
change! Mine was. It's unlikely to still be there on an older car
because stacking the washers will usually result in dripping.
When I bought them fro ma local dealer, they were separate.
When I bought with subarugenuineparts.com (thanks Carl for that tip
moons ago), they all came with the washers taped to each filter box
-- a nice touch.
2001 Legacy Outback Wagon, 2.5L H-4
Chicago, Illinois USA
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