Torquing oil drain plug

Actually I don't think it matters. Whether wet or dry, you will NOT be seating the plug against the pan. The point is to crush the sealing ring enough to ensure it seals, and that means the plug is NOT up against the pan.

The idea is to compact the sealing ring but not destroy it by overly crushing it. The torque rating is for when using an air wrench or other tool that simply snaps onto the plug. However, it is likely you will be using a wrench with a handle so you can easily guage how much you rotate the wrench.

Turn the plug by your fingers until it is tight. Rotate an additional (pick just one):

- 1/4 turn for "solid" metal gasket seal.

- 1/3 turn for formed metal gasket or plastic ring.

You do NOT want to cinch the oil plug up against the pan. If there is still a drip after torquing as directed above, rotate a maximum of a further 1/4 turn. If there is still a drop, get a new gasket/ring.

If you're doing your own oil change, replace the sealing ring. Oil change shops don't (unless you ask and they carry the part). Rather than rely on a prior-crushed ring, use a new one.

Good post. Additionally, double check that the the original factory washer is not painted in place. Particularly if this is the first oil change! Mine was. It's unlikely to still be there on an older car because stacking the washers will usually result in dripping.

Carl

Doesn't matter, ft/lbs are the same whether dry or lubed, lubed is just easier to get there.

Also, I can get about 3 oil changes from the same crush washer, 4 is pushing it.

When I bought them fro ma local dealer, they were separate.

When I bought with subarugenuineparts.com (thanks Carl for that tip moons ago), they all came with the washers taped to each filter box

-- a nice touch.

-- Todd H.