Window glass not moving with motor

'93 Subaru Impreza AWD L Sedan

Okay, new problem to me. (-; Driver's side electric window will not go up or down unless I move it by hand. Hand movement of the window seems smooth. You can hear the window motor running perfectly fine, in both directions, when operated by the switch. Anybody know what this could be before I tear into the door, so I have a direction to hunt? Is it possible to swap in wrecking yard parts from the Legacy line, as we rarely get Imprezas in yards here?

There have been no symptoms whatsoever, prior to complete failure, and I'm the only user of the vehicle, so I question whether something like this could be caused by somebody forcing the window down by hand, then back p? )-; Are there any nylon gears that could strip?

Thanks in advance to all for any help.

~Brian

Reply to
strchild
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Window glass came out of the rail or bracket that holds it. So the mechanical is going up and down but not with the glass attached. Or an arm broke off (haven't been inside the door for a year so don't remember if there is moon clip and/or bolt to attach the pieces together.

Reply to
Vanguard

Thanks for the tip-off Vanguard, . .

Just went out and checked, since you made it sound so easy, and unfortunately it's not so easy as just putting the glass back on a rack. )-; Looks as though the problem is in the "gear box" the motor is attatched to. Is there a worm gear coming off of the motor shaft that could have become defective? When moving the window by hand, and watching the mechanics, everything is functioning, right down to the gear in the gear-box that is working against the geared swing-arm portion on the scissor mechanism. I don't suppose anybody has any diagrams, or links to something that may generalize the mechanics of this sort of mechanism, so I can get a better grasp what I'm doing? I know there is a spring for the window mechanism in the door somewhere, and the last thing I would enjoy is a big nasty spring going up my forearm.

~Brian

Reply to
strchild

I have no experience with soob windows, but usually the motor (if still working) can be moved over to the new 'regulator' (the scisor mechanism). You might price one from Jamie at

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or other online dealer. Email her and maybe she has a drawing she could attach to email and send back.

Carl

Reply to
Carl 1 Lucky Texan

I had the same problem with my 03 forester. Brought it in to the dealer, my mistake.

They told me the motor was stripped internally. 400 dollars later, new motor and it works again. I took it apart too, and I was surprised to see that it was in the track properly.

I think I would have found a new motor from a junk yard, and replaced it myself, but the dealer was already going to milk me for a hundred, since they took it apart to diagnose, and let me pick it up broken as an alternative.

I asked them to check on the wind noise as well, since they had it apart, but they conveniently forgot.

Reply to
jr

Sorry to bring bad news, but you are probably looking at replacing the regulator assembly. Possible that you might be able to simply install another motor, but in all likelihood you will have to remove the regulator _anyway_ to do so. Pretty sure Subaru starts with the regulator, and then builds the door around it; they are a serious PITA, but doable (just) with regular hand tools. I will comment that the phillips-head fasteners are frequently ridiculously tight. If at all possible, use a phillips bit in a 3/8in impact on these to minimize the risk of stripping out the head. Anyway, go here: and D/L the Body.pdf file. Obviously for a newer car, but the mechanism and adjustment procedures will be largely the same. Good chance the Legacy regulator is the same as per normal Subaru, but take yours in to match just to be sure. Hope this helps. Best of luck.

ByeBye! S. Steve Jernigan KG0MB Laboratory Manager Microelectronics Research University of Colorado (719) 262-3101

Reply to
S

Thank you all very much so far. I'm getting a bit worried as to the actual "getting in and doing" it part. But, I have the body portion of the manual downloading now, and will see myself to the local wrecking yard tomorrow, or as soon as the rain lets up, and the sun can dry the place long enough to not look like a drowned rat in coveralls. I really don't want to go to the dealer for this, as they always quote me things at a price that pretty much could swallow an entire paycheck if I let it. /-; Not the parts guys' faults, but that's just the way it is. Not an entire stranger to getting into my door, as I installed an automatic lock actuator earlier in the year, but sheesh, they didn't leave much room in the door for, well, anything, would seem. Any good reason a car door can't be split in two for working on? There some sort of great benefit to manufacturers, producing them as they are now? Seems they are hardly meant to be worked on. )-; Hopefully I can post some follow-up, when I have some progress. (-;

Thank you again, to everyone, ~Brian

"S" wrote in message news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com...

Reply to
strchild

Thank you all, again. I had a spot of good weather yesterday, got a replacement motor and gearbox mechanism from the yard, and did the replacement work this morning. I followed the instructions as closely as I could from the link Steve shared, and whadya know, they were almost right on! (-; Two, maybe three hours work (I didn't watch the clock that closely), a rubber hammer later, and the replacement part is installed and working.

Would seem that the slip-clutch-like mechanism in the gearbox assembly that allows the nylon ring gear to move along with the motor's worm gear after the window glass has come to a stop had begun to slip too much, and could not grip with enough force to move the window. I like the design, as it would seem the nylon gear has very little chance of stripping against the metal worm gear that is cut into the shaft of the motor. But, like anything else, the darn slip-able portion of the mechanism seems to have worn out. No way the worm gear is going to strip or come loose, it's machined right into the motor shaft, and the nylon gear shouldn't strip either, as it transfer's the torque by means of a rubber gasket like material that it can slip against.

As far as the Legacy motor/gearbox being a match for the Impreza, I can't even tell you the year of Legacy, as the car in the yard was not marked, but upon inspection of the number stamped on both parts, exact same part number, so as near a match as I can imagine coming up with. The only difference is the two lead, wire harness coming from the motor. It's longer on my Impreza than the Legacy, which a quick reroute of the connector placement was able to solve.

The screws holding the gear assembly to the rest of the regulator really were ungodly tight, as suggested they might be, but I was able to loosen them without the need of an impact driver, which is great, as I don't have one at my disposal right now...

Don't try and remove the motor from the gear assembly as I learned the hard way, or you will get the joy of trying to put two very small motor brushes back where they belong, with two very obnoxious springs, all the while trying to feed the long motor spindle back into the hole it came from. The one end of the motor assembly is part of the gearbox mechanism, so you can not separate the motor from the rest of the assembly in it's entirety.

Before I separated the gear assembly from the regulator scissor arms, I planted the coiled spring portion snugly in a bench vice, which held it right in place so I could swap it without having to figure out how to reset the spring. (-; Otherwise, what I learned at the yard is, the spring pops out of place rather quickly as soon as the gear assembly is separated.

Always nice to be reminded of how much I appreciate my window by not having proper use of it for a few days.

~Brian

Reply to
strchild

Had a similar problem on my Legacy. Had to replace the motor and scissor arm on the rear right side. Got the replacement from a wrecker but never saw *exactly* how he took it out.

Went home and started the fitting. Couple of hours later and seventeen new strings of swearword combinations and I gave up.

Went down to one of the local panel shops with a dozen of beer.

Works perfectly now but still don't know how they fit

Reply to
Bugalugs

I share your frustration, as that's how I felt, going into the guts of the magic power window system, that Chinese puzzle box of arbitrarily difficult automotive engineering, however after how well the whole deal went yesterday, I would gladly show you how they fit for a dozen of beer. (-;

I can't take all the credit though. Without the manual pages provided by Steve, I would have used the big rubber hammer more, my brain less, and filled in the gaps with colorful adjectives.

~Brian

Reply to
strchild

Good job!

Steves theory of expertise:

Doesn't matter how little you know about something, if you know more'n the guy sitting next to you, you _are_ the expert.

I'm pretty sure you qualify as the resident soobie-glass expert at this point. You da _man_ :-)

ByeBye! S. Steve Jernigan KG0MB Laboratory Manager Microelectronics Research University of Colorado (719) 262-3101

Reply to
S

On another note, no more wind noise from the mirror gusset area of the window.

:-)

Steve, would you be offended if I offered the link you shared with me, to the body portion of the manual, to those complaining of wind noise? Or I could link to one of your posts if you prefer.

~Brian

Reply to
strchild

Not at all, that's why I keep 'em there.

'02 Impreza

'84 EA81 engine

'88 and '89 MR2

just for fun. Check out wrc-high.wmv

If anyone has other Subaru service manuals in electronic format, send 'em along and I'll put them up as well.

ByeBye! S.

Steve Jernigan KG0MB Laboratory Manager Microelectronics Research University of Colorado (719) 262-3101

Reply to
S

For the past week, my '98 Impreza Outback Sport will lock all doors except for the hatchback. Also, when I go to lock the car, the wiper moves. This happened for a week. Now, the back hatchback will not lock at all via the car remote and when I try to run the rear wipers, I hear a click, but the wiper doesn't move.... can anyone help please? God Bless

Reply to
Topher

Most likely wire damage where it passes between the door and the body.

Blair

Reply to
Blair Baucom

Reply to
Topher

You will need to remove the door panel to find out, but I still believe from what you have said it is where the wires bend between the door and the roof line.

Once you have the panel off you can check the voltages, and move the door to find the problem.

Blair

Reply to
Blair Baucom

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