01 Toyota Avalon stuck o2 sensor

It's the one facing the engine, huh? I guess that rules out B1S2. Now, is it mounted in the forward bank exaust manifold (B2S1) or the rearward facing exaust manifold (B1S1)?

BTW, that part is specifically an air fuel ratio sensor, not an O2 sensor. I hope your not planning to thread an O2 sensor into that hole. An assortment of drivability and MIL on issues will be the result.

Denso sells an aftermarket version of the A/F ratio sensor for about $170 that I presume is the same quality as the OE suppplied Denso sensors, and much cheaper than the Toyota part. If you look at the OE part you will see that the first five digits of the part # are 89467. On an O2 sensor that # would be 89465.

If you wish to reply with the correct position of sensor you are replacing I will tell you the best way to remove it without costing yourself a new manifold in the process.

Toyota MDT in MO

"Comboverfish" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@h3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com:

Where would you buy Denso parts aftermarket?

innews: snipped-for-privacy@h3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com:

Local parts warehouses around here stock them; these places are where the Carquest, Napa, etc stores go when they don't have something in stock.

Or Rock Auto:

scroll eight results down to the Denso part# 2349021. Ironically, they are misrepresenting it as an O2 sensor, but the OE part# cross reference identifies it for an air fuel ratio sensor application. It looks like you could save ~$10 on a Standard part, but the extra $ would be worth knowing it's a Denso for sure.

Toyota MDT in MO

"Comboverfish" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@h3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com:

Thanks.

Now another question (that arises from my reading of the Rock Auto page): What's the difference between OE and "OE-type"? Is it strictly the fact that one comes from the dealer and one does not? Or are there possible quality differences as well?

I'm replacing B1S1. Also, I was told a universal sensor from Advance Auto was OK to use. Am I making a big mistake with that. I'd rather spend the money if the cons are serious.

Gary

I choose Polesoft Lockspam to fight spam, and you?

After what I posted, does it sound to you like a "universal sensor from Advanced Auto" is OK? Can you post the part number and full description for this part, or a link?

Anyways, assuming you really are replacing the B1S1 (on the rear facing exaust manifold) here's what I would do... BTW. your original post states that this sensor is "real easy" to get to. I wouldn't think the average DIYer would consider the B1S1 easy, especially considering that other sensor (B1S2) *IS* really easy to access. That's why I have my doubts you are referring to the B1S1.

Spray down the B1S1 metal base and threaded boss on the manifold with PB Blaster several times throughout the day, and do so on a cold engine. Do this when you know you won't need the car for the whole day. Now, get a 22mm or 7/8" combination wrench. Unplug the sensor connector (I use a long thin screwdriver to release the lock tab from underneath the car and then pull on the sensor harness to dislodge the connector all in one move). Thread the connector through the box end of the combination wrench and place the box end over the sensor hex. You want the wrench pointing towards the driver's side of the vehicle, about 10 degrees below horizontal. You will see that this position gives you some room to get your hand on the wrench. You want the "clearance" of the wrench to point forward (this is a factor of which side of the box end that you threaded the connector through; if the wrench is pointing rearward, then thread it the other way - this way gives me more leverage and room but it may not be that critical). Get your best grip on the wrench at the end with one hand, and back up the wrench with your other hand for stability, then lift yourself off the ground and your weight should get it to budge loose. If it starts to come off freely, then Bob's your uncle. Back it out slowly and feel for any resistance. -or-

If it moves slightly but is still tight, spray the threads again and tighten it. Then go back and forth in that arc, alternating turning the sensor and spraying PB Blaster. Try to work the arc larger, but be patient. Hopefully you can get it out in this manner. If you do succeed but it was a fight the whole way, I would suggest getting a cheap sparkplug chaser tool with 18mmX1.5mm threads. The cheapest one I have seen is a double-ended tool with the common 14mm on one side and 18mm on the other. Any decent parts store should have it. Otherwise, ask for an 18mmX1.5mm tap (good luck) or an O2 sensor repair tap if that exists.

Toyota MDT in MO

I wish I could answer that, Tegger, but I pay very little attention to aftermarket parts as a dealer tech. Most of my experiences with them are negative, due to customers asking us to fix a previous "repair" that involved junk parts to begin with. I use them on my own circle of cars but only certain parts and certain applications based on experience.

My best guess in this situation (O2 and ratio sensors) is that the OE unit is made by the original OEM and the OE type would have the correct connector premade onto it (direct fit), but could be made by anyone as long as it is designed in a similar fashion.

Toyota MDT in MO

"Comboverfish" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@a75g2000cwd.googlegroups.com:

And lacking that experience, I don't trust aftermarket, for the most part.

In some cases, I have no choice. For example, my current alternator is a NAPA remanufactured unit. At the time my original failed due to corrosion, there was an order backlog for Honda remans, with no ETA on delivery, so I was forced to install a reman from the best place available at the time: NAPA.

And guess what? The first NAPA one was a dud. It failed within 10 months. Its warranty replacement seems to be fine...so far. If this one fails too, a Honda reman is going in there no matter what.

I notice the Rock Auto Denso A/F sensor is listed as being "OE-type" which is what made me ask my question.

Corrosion? What do you mean?

Toyota MDT in MO

"Comboverfish" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@q2g2000cwa.googlegroups.com:

The rotating part corroded to the stationary part. The two were welded together, resulting in a locked alternator pulley. Much belt smoke and noise on attempted startup.

This particular alternator was 14 years old. The car had sat for almost three weeks as we were on vacation, and the extended idleness allowed the existing corrosion to build to the point where seizure occurred.

Oh, the joys of living in the Rust Belt.

IT IS NOT!

YES!!

Don