Despite JT's advice to the contrary, I am still going to try to revive my old friend. I'm [fairly] confidant that I can get it right for less than I could buy a temporary replacement. I've had it for 8 yrs so its the 'devil I know' rather than taking a chance on something new.
Any advice on where to begin is appreciated.
The codes I'm getting [still- despite having replaced the purge control valve & IRCM which I thought would have cleared #1 & 2] are;
KOEO
563-- High Speed Electro drive fan circuit fault [solenoid in IRCM] 565- canister purge solenoid circuit fault 625- electronic pressure control solenoid circuit fault [solenoid in PCM]The CanPurge valve was frozen at about 1/2 open/closed & the solenoid had an open in it.
KOER
538 insufficient rpm change during KOER dynamic response test 521 power steering pressure switch circuit faultAnd the cylinder balance test is weird. I did it last week & it acted just like the book indicated-- It identified cylinder 6 as trouble, but wouldn't repeat the test when I pressed the accelerator.
I tried it again today with the following apparent results;
1 3 6 1 3 6 ~ 3 6 ~ 3 6The '~' represents what sounds like a long beep. It might have been that way for test 1 & 2 but I didn't catch it.
Not trusting my understanding of the new 'gadget' I put my antique tach/dwell meter on the car & double checked it. Sure enough with the
3&6 wires off, the car sounded just like it did with them on-- idling rough at 850rpm. But it did the same with any one or two wires disconnected! I tried several combinations & all seemed to give the same results. So now I'm at a loss. This is the first FI car I've worked on-- do the electronics [or pump?] compensate that well for disconnected cylinders ?Brief rundown of symptoms & what has been done so far; Rough idle & no power- worse when cold.
Replaced; plugs, wires, dist. cap, rotor, ignition module, pcv valve, fuel filter MAF sensor #4 fuel injector [don't know why mech. chose that one] cannisterpurge control valve integrated relay control valve
I've replaced any vacuum hoses I found that looked the least bit cracked or loose. [with $5/foot hose from the dealer!-- Sheesh when I asked for 3 feet of it, I thought I was spending about a dollar, not $15.]
Any direction/advice is appreciated. [And though I appreciate the thought-- I probably won't be following advice to 'junk it' for a couple years anyway]
Thanks, Jim