Freelander TD4 Lack Of Power

04 TD4 Freelander with lack of power from 1800 revs or so. Starts and idles fine. Foot flat to the floor from 1800 revs or so and it'll get to 2000 and pretty much stay there unless the auto box kicks down. Acceleration is very poor. No fault codes and no MIL light, diagnostics all show all engine sensors are operating correctly. Capturing to an avi file on a drive shows nothing abnormal. I've checked all vacuum hoses and replaced suspects, and replaced squishy turbo hoses. Disconnecting the MAF the car drives fine, so replaced it, but still no cure. As car drives fine with disconnected MAF, I'd guess this rules out a fuel problem. Any further ideas? I have a Boost Control Valve on order, so will change this next. Is there anywhere else I should be looking? If the Boost Control valve was faulty, wouldn't the manifold presure go very high? There's no EGR valve to worry about either, it's been removed with a bypass kit.

I'm stuck!

Alan C

Reply to
alan.cutler
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Blocked exhaust? (probably from the internals of the catalytic converter collapsing).

Reply to
EMB

Worth checking the Cam Cover Filter ......... when that gets congested you get these symptoms (often intermittent at first). When very badly congested you will get black smoke also. The normally clever little Land Rover computer diagnostic tool does _NOT_ pick this fault up (well they didn't very late 07). Strangely BMW recommend changing this unit on their BMWs quite regularly but for some reason it didn't get included in the L/Rover TD4 maintenance schedule until about '07 via an alert, not sure if it has been universally adopted though.

Richard

Reply to
Richard

As it runs fine, infact better than it ever has, with the MAF disconnected, I'd presume the exhaust was fine? I know cats do collapse though.

Alan C

Reply to
alan.cutler

Changed that last week.

Alan C

Reply to
alan.cutler

Didn't see it mentioned in your post .......... just the MAF .... still there you go

Richard

Reply to
Richard

This is the part I am on about ....... not the MAF

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Richard

Reply to
Richard

So far I have changed the MAF, cam cover PVC valve, fuel filter, 2 turbo hoses as they were very soft and squishy, air intate temperature sensor as it came with one of the hoses, and replaced any suspect looking vacuum hoses (which control amongst other things the boost control solenoid). All the engine sensors appear normal and within scope when checked on the diagnostics, no error codes and no MIL lamp, but still won't rev much past 2000 revs unless forced hard and there's no power there. What's confusing me is that with the MAF disconnected it goes fine (of course it then logs a fault and turns the MIL on), been advised that usually in this instance it's the MAF which is faulty, but I have 3 different MAFs now, all with the same fault, I doubt it. You know where you are with mechanical injection, but electronic? Pah, even the computer doesn't know :-(

Alan C

Reply to
alan.cutler

Hi Richard,

Yes, the cam cover PCV filter has been changed. Don't know why I keep calling it a valve!

Alan C

Reply to
alan.cutler

On or around Thu, 5 Feb 2009 11:56:14 -0800 (PST), snipped-for-privacy@bbc.co.uk enlightened us thusly:

wiring or connector issue on the MAF connection?

Reply to
Austin Shackles

I had a similar problem and changed the MAF, PVC, and cleaned out the EGR. After the MAF was replaced the car idling was erratic and sometimes would switch off when cold starting. However after a few days of driving (approx. 10kms per day) it seems to be going a lot smoother with easy gear changes etc. the only problem I detect now is that when I depress the accelerator it doesn't respond immediately and only does so after a few nervous moments. Same story when going up hills, depress the accelerator and it is slow to kick down and gather speed. Not sure what the cause of this is and would appreciate some suggestions, it has a new oil and air filter for good measure.

Devan

Reply to
Devan

replying to Devan , Devan N wrote: To the experts out there PLEASE help!

I posted a previous note about my Freelander TD4 2004 acceleration problem and hope you can shed some light before I subject myself to the agents and further enormous expense.

The TD4 starts first time every time and but when I press the accelerator it stutters and sometimes even cuts out completely. If I let it idle for a while (1 minute) then it doesn't switch off but it still feels hesitant and there is a ticking sound (like the old tappets). While driving and especially on an uphill, if I depress the accelerator completely I get no response whatsoever and the car will not go past 80km/h except if I put it into sport mode to encourage torque then it picks up again. If I need to stop at a traffic light I can feel the idle is rough.

the vehicle has been serviced recently and in addition I have replaced a number of items the MAF, PVC, and OIL and AIR filters. I am not sure if any of the hoses are gone or if the wiring needs to be replaced but I am frustrated to no end with a car that has been with us since new and I am hoping t keep it for a while more.

At the last service the injectors all showed within spec so I am stumped.

Any assistance will be appreciated!

Reply to
Devan N

Not saying it's the same problem, but this came up on Landy Zone on a '04 TD4 with a similar sounding problem. There were initially no fault codes showing on the ECU. :-

"Its an injector. I found number 2 wasnt doing anything when i pulled the connector off while it was missing, so i swapped number 2 with number 1 and the missfire followed it."

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For the full thread.

Now, if it had been an old 2 1/4 petrol engine like mine, I could have given you chapter and verse on misfiring.....

Reply to
John Williamson

Hi m8 did u ever fix that freelander problem

Reply to
mrmysta

I didnt know either when you said it

It must mean its secret and clandestine

mk5000

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Reply to
M Kfivethousand

You've replied to a ten year old post, lol

Stephen

Reply to
stephen.hull

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