This has been an ongoing problem with my 98 dodge stratus for five months. This experience with this car proves to me why I never want to take my car to a mechanic unless it's absolutely necessary. Five weeks and two mechanics later, who were both highly recommended, my car still isn't right. This car has a brand new distributor, timing belt, water pump, EGR valve, PCV valve, fuel pump, fuel filter, spark plugs, plug wires, cap and rotor, oil and filter, coolant temp sensor and battery. The original problem started with what I was told was a bad fuel pump. Then after that was changed, it turned into a hard-starting, no power issue. The first mechanic told me he checked the catalytic converter, which he never did. He also said he did vacuum tests and changed the intake plenum gaskets, which he never did. And after two weeks in his shop, he told me it was either my computer, distributor, or timing belt.
Now on to the next mechanic. He had the car for three weeks. He said he did a leak-down cylinder test, compression test, checked the timing, put in an oxygen censor, and catalytic converter. $800 later, the car still runs terrible at first start-up ,and now the engine is noisier than I remember it to be. The catalytic converter made a difference, there's power getting to the car. When my daughter and I picked up the car, I noticed the engine was warm, so of course, it started fine and ran good all the way home. So they must have run the car just before I got there so I could get it out of their garage, and out of their hair .
Today when we tried to start it in our thirty degree temperatures, it will hardly idle, and I have to keep my foot on the gas to keep it running. Once the car warmed up, it seemed to run better and then we could shut it off and it started right up and idled fine. Do any of you knowledgeable people out there have any ideas where I can go look now? Perhaps the map sensor? IAC motor? Throttle position sensor, EGR valve? All of these, from what I've read and researched, could possibly be part of my problem. I know these can all be tested with a volt meter, which I know how to use. I will probably perform these tests over the weekend. All of these tests were supposed to have been done by both of these mechanics. There are NO codes coming up at all and forgive me if I'm coming off a bit harsh and bitter, but after this much time and money(around $1500), my daughter's car still isn't right. Thanks for any info or advice.
p.s. I know there are good, honest mechanics out there. I just haven't found one yet.