I have a 1994 Chevrolet Corsica with a 6 cylinder engine. The freon leaked out over the winter. Wal-Mart has recharge kits that contain R-134 freon. Is R-134 the correct type for this car?
Also, which is the low pressure line, the one with the blue plastic cap that is located under the radiator fan, or the one with the red cap that is on top near the top of the radiator?
Thank you for helping.
If you don't even know what's in your car, you shouldn't even be trying to refill it.
Secondly, if it's leaking, it's illegal to refill with R12 or R134a.
Yes, that would be the correct 'suicide kit.'
Why do you think it would matter?
Maybe he's not in Canada...
The connection is almost dummy proof. R12 uses screw on connectors.
134a uses a quick connect fitting. Blue is the low pressure side. Red is the high pressure side. Leave the red side alone.A/C systems are dangerous and you could injure or kill yourself messing with one. I would recommend that you have a pro diagnose and properly repair the problem.
With that said: Assuming you are just trying to get some cool out of the system... You charge it with the engine running and a/c on high. Buy one of the cans with the built in gauge and watch the pressure to make sure you don't go out of the green section. Hope for the best. It's a half assed repair but a proper repair could very well exceed the value of the vehicle.
Steve B.
Isn't that why manufacturers recommend running the A/C for at least ten minutes in a row every week of the year, even if it means using the defroster (whatever that is -- I'm in Arizona) with the A/C compressor turned on?
for this car?
Yes, but you may want to avoid the types that inject oil or dye into the system, to prevent putting too much liquid in the system. If you don't use a full guage set, at least get a pair of dial-type thermometers to monitor the evaporator inlet and outlet tubes, in case the pressure guage included with the recharge kit is inaccurate. Air conditioning parts supplies have really good thermometers that read from about 30-120 degs. F, but fast-acting 0-220 F food thermometers should be good enough (however verify that they read identically by putting both in a glass of ice water while their tips are touching one another). Tape the tip of one thermometer to the inlet pipe of the evaporator, the tip of the other to the outlet pipe. Run the A/C for at least 5-10 minutes before charging, and then add refrigerant slowly while the engine is idling at over 2,000 RPM. Stop charging when either the right pressures are reached or both thermometers show about the same cold temperature, whichever comes first. At lower RPM the thermometers won't give an accurate indication of the refrigerant level and can lead to really bad overcharging.
Not to mention being a complete waste of time.
Get the leak/s fixed properly by a professional. They can then replace both the receiver-drier and orifice tube which have likely never been touched since the car left the factory. _Then_ they can flush and refill the system with the correct refrigerant (and LUBRICANT) and you'll actually have a working A/C system.
This is of course provided that the compressor hasn't shat itself or seized already due to folks trying to dump unknown weights of possibly non-compatible gasses into the system without knowing exactly what they're doing...
MotorsForum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.