Autozone waterpump lifespan

Hi,

I installed a brand new Duralast waterpump from AutoZone 40,000 miles ago, in my 85 Chevy Caprice. Already the bearings are worn. I can move the fan around quite a lot, and also the pump is noisy.

40,000 is not very long, right ? My previous wp, a rebuilt Cardone, I think, in this car, lasted 90,000.

I have removed the a/c belt and also the air pump belt. Would having those belts off affect the wear of the wp bearing at all ???

What about the Duralast Heavy Duty pump with "roller bearings" . It costs more. Would the roller bearings last longer than the normal bearing ????

Thanks

Reply to
Caprice85
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When you buy only the lowest quality water pump, what did you expect? Try buying a good one like a new airtex one. You probably won't find it at Autozone/ Advance Auto/ Pep Boys/Kraken type of places.

Try NAPA or CarQuest if you want stuff that will last.

Reply to
zzyzzx

When you buy only the lowest quality water pump, what did you expect? Try buying a good one like a new airtex one. You probably won't find it at Autozone/ Advance Auto/ Pep Boys/Kraken type of places.

Try NAPA or CarQuest if you want stuff that will last.

I bought a cheaper Autozone pump (perhaps out of necessity...cant remember), with similar results. Had to replace it within months. Bought a more expensive lifetime Autozone pump about 4-5 years ago, and it has not bobbled.

In general, Napa has a much better reputation, I will agree

Reply to
HLS

How about one from the dealer?

Reply to
John S.

How about one from the dealer?

Dealer prices are often 200-300% higher than identical or better quality items from a FLAPS. But you have to know what you are buying.

I would say avoid Autozone rebuilds on waterpumps. New pumps from the better FLAPS are likely to be as good as, or better than, OEMs.

Reply to
HLS

I agree with your post 100% except for one item - I do not associate the name "airtex" with quality. In fact, their replacement fuel pumps are utter crap. One of them tried to burn down my '55 Studebaker.

nate

Reply to
N8N

For parts that are blown, step into the Zone!

--scott

Reply to
Scott Dorsey

I guess I have about 70,000 miles on the new (not rebuilt) Autozone pump.

The previous rebuilt pump failed much earlier around the bearing. I fully believe that top quality rebuilds can be better than off the shelf new parts, but Autozone was not of that quality. When this unit failed, I was a little surprised to see extensive corrosion on the pump wall. However, since the shaft bearing had failed, and oxygen was certainly being drawn into the low pressure part of the pump, this corrosion could be expected, EVEN though the coolant was fresh and well maintained. No corrosion inhibitor package can withstand a lot of air at that temperature without corrosion.

Reply to
HLS

The Auto Zone water pump on my 1978 Dodge van has about 76,000 miles on it, it still works.I never have had any problems with Auto Zone parts before. cuhulin

Reply to
cuhulin

That is rare, especially if you use their rebuilts.

Reply to
HLS

I am still waiting on when I can bum a ride with somebody to an auto parts store so I can buy some J B Weld and fix that rusted out little hole in my van's timing chain case cover.I figure I will sand blast the area first.My sister and brother in law are in Topeka visiting an old Air Force buddy of his.They will be back around July 2, then I will ask my sister to take me to an auto parts store.I reckon I am in no hurry. cuhulin

Reply to
cuhulin

Make sure of the size of the hole and PLUG it with something before you do any cleaning or sanding near it. Sand and engine internals don't mix.

Actually if it is just the cover rusted out you could use the same repair technique you used on the gas tank. Just use a small hunk of tape over the hole before you put the patch over it to keep the resin out of the engine. Unless the PCV valve isn't working there shouldn't be any pressure in the crankcase to push the repair off.

Reply to
Steve W.

I will sand blast the area, then after I use some J B Weld, I will flush out the cooling system with my garden hose.I want the area to be really clean before I J B Weld it.I have some new radiator hoses and heater hoses I will put on there too. cuhulin

Reply to
cuhulin

Um.... if you sandblast around that hole, you're going to be spraying sand into either the water jacket or an oil-filled area (specifically the timing chain and sprockets).

Replacing the whole cover is NOT that difficult or expensive. 318 parts are CHEAP at junkyards.

Reply to
Steve

Maybe I wont sand blast.Instead, I will clean the area the best I can with some acetone and hope the J B Weld will last long enough untill I have more time to locate and install a good timing chain case cover. cuhulin

Reply to
cuhulin

Try an ASC brand...made NEW in USA...I had no problems with many miles on one in an 89 S-blazer.

Don Byrer KJ5KB Radar Tech & Smilin' Commercial Pilot Guy Glider & CFI wannabe kj5kb-at-hotmail.com

"I have slipped the surly bonds of earth; now if I can just land without bending the gear..." "Watch out for those doves..."

Reply to
Don Byrer

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