Brake Rotors-Are They All The Same?

I'm ready to redo my brakes on my 95 Buick Century. The front pads have about 25% meat left on them, but I don;t want them to go much more. Plus, I'm getting a pulsation from the pedal upon braking. The funny thing is these front rotors were new and never turned down. They were fine for about 20k miles then they started to develop this pulsation (warped, obviously). These were cheapie AutoZone rotors purchased for about 16.00 each. When I was at the counter, the guy asked me if I wanted economy, mid grade or premium rotors (sounds like they got their grading system from the gas station!) Anyway, I opted for the economy rotors. If I had bought the premiums, do you think I would've had this warping problem? I mean, how much different can the rotors be? They can't be any thicker, so I really don't know what you get with the premioums, other than a longer in store warrenty. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks! Jay

Reply to
bajazza
Loading thread data ...

The problem normally is with the torque on the wheel lug nuts. They are supposed to be hand torqued down these days and some garages or $tealerships still use impact guns for it. The guns even with 'torque sticks' on them are not accurate enough to prevent rotor warpage.

Then sometimes you get what you pay for, ones that warp easy or hard, but the most I have seen bitched about are the good ones with shitty wheel techs.....

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail >
Reply to
Mike Romain

Listen to Mike, dude. There are a couple of reasons for pulsation, but if you have calipers working as they should, good brake pads, true rotors, and free moving slide pins, part of the battle is won.

You must be very careful about torqueing the wheel lugs. If you see a SOB coming at your wheels with an impact wrench, stop him. I dont care if he has torque stix out the butt, dont let him use the impact wrench.

There are articles which discuss rotor warping, taper, etc. Either of the two is bad. You can measure the rotor for warpage and taper, and see what the basic problem is.

At the end of the road, you have to bring everything back to 'true', but it is good if you understand what the root causes are.

Reply to
<HLS

wrote in news:xAWoh.9829$ snipped-for-privacy@newssvr17.news.prodigy.net:

Here's the best one I've found yet.

formatting link

Reply to
Tegger

wrote

Premium: Modern factory, pure high-grade iron poured into precision-aligned molds in a temperature-controlled environment, allowed to cool slowly in oven, cooling slots cleaned of all casting slag, fully machined and balanced on CNC machine.

Mid-grade: Ex-sewing machine factory retrofitted with a small furnace, "used" iron with a few minor impurities poured into almost worn-out but still serviceable molds, air-cooled on wood pallets, most casting slag removed using hammer and chisel, surfaced on a lathe in the local high school's auto shop after last class.

Economy: Third-world yokel in a grass hut, old wheels, cranks and tin cans thrown into a big pot, heated over an open fire until they sorta melted, got granny to help pour into home-made carved wooden molds, cooled by dropping them in the creek beside the hut, "machined" by spinning on a stick while the kids held rocks against the sides.

Not much difference, really. Honest.

Reply to
MasterBlaster

to help pour

the sides.

And the funniest part of all that is that the 'economy' ones are known to hold true where the 'premium' ones warp if they even see an air gun in the shop....

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06
formatting link
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Reply to
Mike Romain

It is a good article, and it blows holes in so many of the myths that float around these newsgroups.

Regulars, read this article and learn!

Ian

Reply to
shiden_kai

I couldn't agree more! Bob

Reply to
Bob

I agree, Ian. I have read this article several times and, maybe I am a slow learner but, I get a little different perspective every time I read it.

Some of the principles are sometimes misquoted or misinterpreted by people on these groups but the principles are important and will show you how to do a good job in preventing brake pulsation and buffeting.

Reply to
<HLS

Reply to
Big Al

I had the rotors replaced on my full size car. They were low cost rotors. They were wearing thin after about 20,000 miles of use. Thats not good. You get what you pay for.

Reply to
J J

Sometimes.

Reply to
<HLS

MotorsForum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.