I found out that almost nobody uses locktite on transmission bolts.
Flywheel yes. Transmission no.
I still might locktite it though, just because it's hard to get to the
upper 17mm transmission bolts on the bell housing (I had to use a series of
half-inch extensions 30" long with a swivel as the 3/8" extensions just
twisted more than a quarter turn and were useless).
The blue is the locktite I'll buy (I generally never use the stuff but I've
never done a transmission before - but I've done everything else that
people do as I don't think I've been to a mechanic in two decades and my
cars are all that old).
I was hoping for more advice here than "if you don't know, then you should"
Anyway, as for the colors,
Blue is just help it from coming loose where proper torquing does the work.
Red is for permanent install, hard to come off
Green is for use on nuts and bolts that are already installed
This guide to locktite seems useful.
If you're going to use any, blue is the way to go or the next time you
remove the transmission you'll be in there with a torch heating up the
bolts to soften the red.
I have never used LocTite on transmission, bellhousing, or pressure
Thanks for the locktite advice, where I never use it and I've done a decent
amount of work (cooling systems, alternators, belts, tensioners, etc.)
where I never before ran into bolts that needed 30 inches of extension to
get to, so I'll locktite blue them sparingly.
I always buy the tools I need, where right now, I can't think of the tool
that I need, but whatever it is, I need it.
How on earth do you get the transmission to back away from the engine?
I can't budge the thing! It's in neutral. I'm positive all the bolts are
off. I'm only somewhat positive that it's level because you can't really
easily tell, but it's close enough as I can wiggle it back and forth. If
it's hanging up on something, I don't see what. I just can't get any
rearward force on that transmission. What tool does that?
Here are some pictures showing that it seems to be hanging up on the upper
dowel pin, where the lower dowel pin is already out.
This is the driver side lower dowel pin, which is already out:
This is the same view showing that the tranmission "appears" level:
This is the passenger side where the dowel pin can be seen up high:
I'm not sure where to place the jack but it's at the transmission waist:
The tool I need is a tool to back the transmission away from the engine.
What tool is that?
Luckily I haven't had to go there yet. I didn't replace the clutch
throwout bearing a few years ago but that's no big deal.
Grant me the knowledge to put LocTite on the things shouldn't come
apart, Never-Seez on the things that should, and the wisdom to know the
OH oh.... supporting the engine?
I could. I have plenty of floor jacks.
It's RWD though.
The vehicle is on four jack stands (two on the rear axle and two on front
frame points just inside the wheels).
I appreciate your question, and my answer is definitely "no", I am not
supporting the engine.
It didn't occur to me to support the engine so I have to ask why would that
(I'm not at all against the idea - I just don't understand how it can
How would I support the engine so that it would help?
You _must_ support the engine. Either via a block of wood under the oil
pan, a trans lift under the pan, or a bar with chain across the shock towers
or hood opening. If you dont, the engine will tilt. Bad things can happen
like something goes through the radiator or the exhaust manifold breaks,
wires get ripped off, etc.
The cross member - remove it. It will make life a lot easier.
You did not say what specific engine, vehicle, trans, etc, but without
removing it it is doubtful that that there will be enough room to back off
the trans and then tilt forward to drop it with out breaking off the tail shaft.
So why are you removing the trans? To R&R the clutch?
If so, then replace the throwout bearing while you are at it.
You will need a clutch plate centering tool.
Thread lock- I tend to use blue thread lock on small bolts and nuts
that get torqued to inch pounds but not on large bolts that get
torqued to 100+ foot pounds. A suggestion: replace any lock washers.
You took out the cross member under the transmission, right? Do the
engine mounts entirely support the engine, or do the transmission mounts
play a part? In other words, is the rear of the engine trying to rotate
downward and binding the transmission?
I don't know your vehicle, but usually a jack under the crankcase does
the trick. You're not trying to jack the engine up, just replace the
support provided by the transmission you're trying to remove.
Good advice. I've replaced two throwout bearings on my F150. I did the
clutch and pressure plate too the second time around even though both
were serviceable. The latest throwout bearing is composite, not cast
iron, and hopefully will last. For the record, it wasn't the bearing
itself but the body binding on the transmission.
Wade Garrett posted for all of us...
I believe this guy is the valve stem thread, harbor freight bead breaker,
tire spec, brake lining spec Ultrec nym shifter. If he would just post under
one name then I and more people would help him. Since I posted this the
insults and diversions will now start.
Been there more than once on more than one bike . NOBODY puts a wrench
on my bike but me ... the 1990 Ultra recently got a total tranny rebuild
and new pistons/rings/valve tappets/top end gaskets plus a new primary
chain and comp sprocket set .
To answer your question, I am now supporting the engine but I don't think
it needed to be supported since nobody else does that that I could figure
out. With the jack on the engine and the transmission out, I can move the
engine about 1/2 inch or even less, so that might be helpful when lining it
up for the reassembly though.
The cross member and the sway bar were removed, and I'm glad it did that
because you need as much room as possible the first time you do it.
The Aisin clutch kit from Rockauto came with five pieces:
a. Clutch plate
c. Pilot bearing
d. Throwout bearing
e. Alignment tool
I am replacing the clutch where it was worn to the rivets.
I'm kind of stuck now on whether to remove the flywheel and get a new one
or have it machined (and replace the oil seal behind it) or just keep it
where it is (the bolts are on really tightly and I can't tell if it needs
to be machined or not).
Yup. And I'm glad I did as you need all the room you can get the first time
you do this job, especially since the transmission jack is kind of big.
The engine is fully supported with the transmission out. Even so, I now
have a jack under it, just in case I want to move it upward to align things
on the replacement.
The problem was stupid. Really stupid. I am embarrassed. I removed the
exhaust bracket bolts (two of them) but I didnt' realize that the bracket,
even when not connected to the bell housing, was in the way of the bell
housing moving backward. I'm an idiot. It was all my fault.
I couldn't find a DIY that explained this as everyone has different exhaust
depending on federal versus cali and the engine most people have is
I have a jack under the engine now, but it's not needed for the engine.
It may be needed for adjusting angles for reassembly as the old diaphragm
(before I took it off the engine) seems off kilter when looking head (for
While I can see the shift fork and throwout bearing in the bell housing
I haven't been able to see the pilot bearing or the rear oil seal.
Where is the pilot bearing? Is it under the throwout bearing?
Is the oil seal behind the flywheel?
I'm not sure if I can get that flywheel off as those bolts are tight and my
half-inch sockets are all only six point where you have to have 12 point:
How important do you think the flywheel machining or replacement is?
The pilot bearing is just a bushing in the end of the crank or flywheel.
The tip (about 1" or less) of the transmission's input shaft rests in
this bushing to support it from flexing. Visible after you remove
transmission and clutch plate and pressure plate. You'll need to use a
suitable puller attached to a slide hammer to get it out. If the one
already there looks ok, you can skip that and lightly grease it before
you install the new clutch. If it is badly worn out, the front bearings
in your tranny may be gone too.
Rear oil seal is a little more trouble. Need to remove the oil pan and
maybe even the rear crank main bearing. Again, if its not leaking, leave
it for the next overhaul.
Always replace the pressure plate and disc and the throwout bearing.
Often, if the friction plate hasn't worn down to where the rivets have
badly eaten up the flywheel, you don't need a new or regrind on the
flywheel. If the scoring or grooves are small, the new clutch plate will
wear in and work fine, although it will have slightly less lifetime
since the grooving takes up a tiny bit of it's thickness during break in.
A clutch is exactly the same type mechanism as a brake disk and rotor,
or brake shoes and drums. Use your experience there to guide you.
Judging when something must be replaced or reground is largely a matter
of experience, so you'll just have to go from there and learn from any
mistakes. There are no magic solutions.
Yeah, he was offended by what I said and took a shot at me in another
newsgroup over it. I was really just trying to help the guy out.
Asking those rookie questions before starting the major repair he was
contemplating, I had visions of him mangling his hand, crushing his
fingers, or a heavy overhead assembly slipping as he tried to remove it
and dropping down onto him cracking his skull or crushing his chest.
When he sees this post- he'll probably go apoplectic!
Pilot bushings are most easily removed by filling them with grease ,
then using a round bar that fits snugly to apply hydraulic pressure -
put one end of that round bar in the bushing and smack the other end
with a hammer . A big one works better ... the bushing will pop right out .