Clutch bolts and locktite

Which is best for dropping the transmission?
Do you remove the crossmember, the bracket, or just the transmission mount? * Crossmember
http://www.bild.me/bild.php?fileb90082bracket03.jpg
* Bracket
http://www.bild.me/bild.php?fileB22146bracket02.jpg
* Mount
http://www.bild.me/bild.php?filea37530bracket01.jpg
Also, do you locktite the bolts when you re-install? (What color?) http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file 54142locktite01.jpg
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On 7/22/18 4:10 AM, Arlen Holder wrote:

If you have to ask those questions, the job is above your pay grade...
--
The fastest way to stop a bad guy with a gun is a good guy with a gun.

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Wade Garrett posted for all of us...

I believe this guy is the valve stem thread, harbor freight bead breaker, tire spec, brake lining spec Ultrec nym shifter. If he would just post under one name then I and more people would help him. Since I posted this the insults and diversions will now start.
--
Tekkie

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On 7/23/18 2:40 PM, Tekkie® wrote:

Yeah, he was offended by what I said and took a shot at me in another newsgroup over it. I was really just trying to help the guy out.
Asking those rookie questions before starting the major repair he was contemplating, I had visions of him mangling his hand, crushing his fingers, or a heavy overhead assembly slipping as he tried to remove it and dropping down onto him cracking his skull or crushing his chest.
When he sees this post- he'll probably go apoplectic!
--
If it is not right, do not do it; if it is not true, do not say it.
- Marcus Aurelius
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On 23 Jul 2018 16:42:53 GMT, trader_4 wrote:

At this point, I don't remember your "suggestion" ... but ... bearing in mind very important facts: 1. I did the job so it's related to this newsgroup, and, 2. I have been posting to Usenet for decades, where 3. Cowardly bullies like Tekkie are a detriment to this newsgroup.
The facts are I clearly removed, and replaced that clutch, and I just as clearly wrote the extremely detailed DIY (and am still working on improving that DIY so as to give back to the team - which is because I'm purposefully helpful and a great Usenet citizen), snapping almost a thousand pictures, of each removal and replacement step and describing for the next person, how to do what I did (with the purposefully helpful & timely advice from many others here).
So it's eminently clear that I responded to everyone who had purposefully helpful intent and am only now getting to responding to the worthless trolls who wouldn't know a clutch plate from a dinner plate.
Given that a. I actually did the job, and, b. I am very smart and can handle complex details, and, c. I didn't have time to shut the bullying cowardly trolls up,
*I'm only now getting to your worthless posts*.
If you feel that I didn't have an "interest" in your suggestion, then you can rest assured, since I'm rather intelligent and logical, that I most likely thought your suggestions were worthless and not even worth at response at the time that I needed help.
If you feel otherwise, then you're welcome to make a technically on-topic and technically valid post. I challenge you to do so, in fact as I do believe that even you have some value to add to the technical topic.
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On 29 Jul 2018 17:22:14 GMT, Arlen Holder wrote:

OOops. Correction (since I care about my credibility)...
Cowardly bullies like Tekkie *and* Trader4, are a detriment to this newsgroup.
Note: Wade Garrett is just an annoyance, like an annoying gnat.
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On 23 Jul 2018 11:40:10 GMT, Tekkie? wrote:

Notice that the guys who are the dumbest on this newsgroup, always find something that is completely unrelated to the clutch job, which is teh topic here, to "complain" about.
*This post by Tekkie proves, yet again, that he's an utter moron.*
The point here is that Tekkie has *never* once in his entire life added on-topic technical value to *any* thread. He's _that_ stupid, that he can't possibly add on-topic technical value.
Why do I say this now, after the clutch job is done?
Because Tekkie is a cowardly bully troll. a. He is a coward. b. He is a bully. c. And, worse, Tekkie proves how utterly _stupid_ he is in every post.
I confront cowardly bullies - in threads I care about - because I want those threads to come to a technical resolution.
Tekkie can be a cowardly bully on any thread that he wants to bully people on, and I let him be (yes, I read his idiotic posts all the time).
But that doesn't change the fact that Tekkie is a worthless cowardly bully. That fact is proven every time he posts - as he did here.
Meanwhile: a. I post a valid question, and I respond to all valid inquiries. b. Usually I have time to confront cowardly bullies - but not this time c. Yes, I care about my privacy - which is the only thing Tekkie sees.
Tekkie never once saw a 'clutch job' in this thread. Not once.
He's _that_ stupid (and it irks me that people are really as stupid as Tekkie proves he is every single time he posts).
Two related things irk me: 1. Cowardly bullies like Tekkie who have zero helpful intent, and, 2. Outfits like Sears/Midas/AAMCO who screw their trusting customers
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On 22 Jul 2018 09:18:06 GMT, Oren wrote:

I found out that almost nobody uses locktite on transmission bolts. Flywheel yes. Transmission no.
I still might locktite it though, just because it's hard to get to the upper 17mm transmission bolts on the bell housing (I had to use a series of half-inch extensions 30" long with a swivel as the 3/8" extensions just twisted more than a quarter turn and were useless).
The blue is the locktite I'll buy (I generally never use the stuff but I've never done a transmission before - but I've done everything else that people do as I don't think I've been to a mechanic in two decades and my cars are all that old). http://www.wdarc.org/Loctite%20Guide.pdf
I was hoping for more advice here than "if you don't know, then you should" though. Sigh.
Anyway, as for the colors, Blue is just help it from coming loose where proper torquing does the work. Red is for permanent install, hard to come off Green is for use on nuts and bolts that are already installed
This guide to locktite seems useful. http://www.loctite.com.au/aue/content_data/354580_7128_Do_It_Right_Guide_v5_Approved.pdf
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On 07/22/2018 12:37 PM, Arlen Holder wrote:

If you're going to use any, blue is the way to go or the next time you remove the transmission you'll be in there with a torch heating up the bolts to soften the red.
I have never used LocTite on transmission, bellhousing, or pressure plate fasteners.
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On 7/22/2018 4:07 PM, rbowman wrote:

  But damn sure on the nut that holds the compensator sprocket to the crankshaft on your Harley ...
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Yes , I'm old
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On 22 Jul 2018 14:20:55 GMT, Terry Coombs wrote:

Thanks for the locktite advice, where I never use it and I've done a decent amount of work (cooling systems, alternators, belts, tensioners, etc.) where I never before ran into bolts that needed 30 inches of extension to get to, so I'll locktite blue them sparingly.
I always buy the tools I need, where right now, I can't think of the tool that I need, but whatever it is, I need it.
How on earth do you get the transmission to back away from the engine? I can't budge the thing! It's in neutral. I'm positive all the bolts are off. I'm only somewhat positive that it's level because you can't really easily tell, but it's close enough as I can wiggle it back and forth. If it's hanging up on something, I don't see what. I just can't get any rearward force on that transmission. What tool does that?
Here are some pictures showing that it seems to be hanging up on the upper dowel pin, where the lower dowel pin is already out.
This is the driver side lower dowel pin, which is already out: <
http://www.bild.me/bild.php?filer54379bellhousing01.jpg
This is the same view showing that the tranmission "appears" level: <
http://www.bild.me/bild.php?fileb05540bellhousing02.jpg
This is the passenger side where the dowel pin can be seen up high: <
http://www.bild.me/bild.php?fileR77197bellhousing03.jpg
I'm not sure where to place the jack but it's at the transmission waist: <http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file 15488bellhousing04.jpg>
The tool I need is a tool to back the transmission away from the engine. What tool is that?
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On 07/22/2018 05:01 PM, Arlen Holder wrote:

Are you supporting the engine?
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On 22 Jul 2018 18:17:06 GMT, rbowman wrote:

OH oh.... supporting the engine? I could. I have plenty of floor jacks.
It's RWD though. The vehicle is on four jack stands (two on the rear axle and two on front frame points just inside the wheels).
I appreciate your question, and my answer is definitely "no", I am not supporting the engine.
It didn't occur to me to support the engine so I have to ask why would that help?
(I'm not at all against the idea - I just don't understand how it can help?)
How would I support the engine so that it would help?
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Arlen Holder wrote:

Oh my.
You _must_ support the engine. Either via a block of wood under the oil pan, a trans lift under the pan, or a bar with chain across the shock towers or hood opening. If you dont, the engine will tilt. Bad things can happen like something goes through the radiator or the exhaust manifold breaks, wires get ripped off, etc. The cross member - remove it. It will make life a lot easier. You did not say what specific engine, vehicle, trans, etc, but without removing it it is doubtful that that there will be enough room to back off the trans and then tilt forward to drop it with out breaking off the tail shaft. So why are you removing the trans? To R&R the clutch? If so, then replace the throwout bearing while you are at it. You will need a clutch plate centering tool. Thread lock- I tend to use blue thread lock on small bolts and nuts that get torqued to inch pounds but not on large bolts that get torqued to 100+ foot pounds. A suggestion: replace any lock washers.
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On 07/22/2018 11:29 PM, Paul in Houston TX wrote:

Good advice. I've replaced two throwout bearings on my F150. I did the clutch and pressure plate too the second time around even though both were serviceable. The latest throwout bearing is composite, not cast iron, and hopefully will last. For the record, it wasn't the bearing itself but the body binding on the transmission.
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On 22 Jul 2018 22:29:00 GMT, Paul in Houston TX wrote:

To answer your question, I am now supporting the engine but I don't think it needed to be supported since nobody else does that that I could figure out. With the jack on the engine and the transmission out, I can move the engine about 1/2 inch or even less, so that might be helpful when lining it up for the reassembly though.
The cross member and the sway bar were removed, and I'm glad it did that because you need as much room as possible the first time you do it.
The Aisin clutch kit from Rockauto came with five pieces: a. Clutch plate b. Diaphragm c. Pilot bearing d. Throwout bearing e. Alignment tool
I am replacing the clutch where it was worn to the rivets.
I'm kind of stuck now on whether to remove the flywheel and get a new one or have it machined (and replace the oil seal behind it) or just keep it where it is (the bolts are on really tightly and I can't tell if it needs to be machined or not). <
http://www.bild.me/bild.php?fileB30325sticking05.jpg
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Arlen Holder wrote:

Nice clutch kit. From the photo it looks like it got pretty hot. I would have it machined or replaced. Rent an electric impact wrench and socket if you need to.
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On 23 Jul 2018 22:37:05 GMT, Paul in Houston TX wrote:

I needed 30 inches of 1/2" extension for the two top 17mm bolt but those extensions you saw didn't come with the Aisin clutch kit. <
http://www.bild.me/bild.php?files78316clutch01.jpg
The Rockauto Aisin clutch kit only comes with these 5 parts. <http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file )98436clutch02.jpg>

It was slipping for about 30 to 50 miles and stinking up a bit also.

Machining is $60, replacement is in stock at one dealer at $716 (PN 13405-75040) plus $66.23 in sales tax, which makes that dealer $782.23. When I gasped, the counter guy said he could take 20% off, which I didn't know that dealers did discounts.
Calling another dealer, they didn't have it in stock but it was $588 plus $54.39 in sales tax, which makes it 642.39.
At the local parts stores, a LUK flywheel is $95, O'Reillys PowerTorque flywheel is $81.74, and the Autozone BrutePower flywheel is $82.
It always amazes me that the dealer parts guys don't know what brand anything is, so I can't tell you who makes the Toyota flywheel but my choice is one of the others, based on sheer price alone.

I am about to try now, where I have a 1/2 inch motorocycle hand impact driver, but I don't have 1/2 inch 12-point sockets, so I will try with a 1/2-inch to 3/8-inch adaptor but that seems like a kludge.
If that doesn't work, when I pick up the flywheel, I'll buy some 1/2 inch 12-point impact sockets (if they even exist).
I do have a 220VAC 20-gallon 120 psi compressor and an air impact gun but the gun sucks and is only good for spinning off already loose bolts. I don't know why it sucks. It never worked. I bought it 20 years ago, and it just takes up space in my toolbox. I don't know how to pick a good one at a good price where price is important because I almost never use the air impact gun.
Maybe I'll buy an air impact gun, but since I need it today, I can only shop Home Depot where I don't even know what they sell there or if it's any good. Clearly the air impact gun I have sucks, so you can get sucky ones for sure, and who wants that.
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Arlen Holder posted for all of us...

You want to buy 6 point impact sockets...
IF you hold the flywheel you MAY be able to get it of with a cheater.
Electric impacts have improved. Your present air impact may be weak because your setup cannot deliver enough air at sufficient pressure.
--
Tekkie

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On 24 Jul 2018 12:08:15 GMT, Tekkie? wrote:

The problem with that is that the flywheel bolts are 12 point.

The flywheel is off. I used a lock stop and a normal 1/2 inch breaker bar. <http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file 44336transmission02.jpg>

I first tried the hand impact tool, and it failed. <http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file 44980flywheel04.jpg>
Then I tried the air-impact gun, and it failed even worse. <
http://www.bild.me/bild.php?fileG48611flywheel02.jpg
The air pressure is 120psi and the hose is 50 feet of 1/2 inch line, and the setting was set to 4 (smallest hole and to 1 biggest hole - as I'm not sure which is high pressure and which is low pressure) and it didn't do a thing (it never does, which is why I never use it).
It's a Universal Tool UT 2210: <
http://www.bild.me/bild.php?fileV14055flywheel03.jpg
Later, not today, I'll post a thread asking for a specific gun that I can buy on the net that actually works that isn't too expensive (because I almost never use a gun so it has to pay for itself with very few uses).
What worked is the old school method, which only took a little more effort: <http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file 91741flywheel01.jpg>
What I need to ask Clare is how to get to that rear engine seal. Do I take out all those bolts around the pilot bearing area? <
http://www.bild.me/bild.php?fileH08619transmission01.jpg
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