Dakota update and very sad today.

Got everything togther and started it last night. First, it would only start if I gave it a little gas. It would die if I let my foot off the pedal until it warmed up a little then would idle fine. Once runnign it sounded great.

But after a minute or so, smoke (or steam) rolled out the exhaust. Reving it more produced more white smoke. Liquid dripped from the tailpipe. When I looked at it this morning, the liquid that dripped on the ground was still there. (on the ground).

I started it up briefly this morning and after a minute it began smoking again. It did not seem quite as bad but was definitely there.

Ironically, when I checked the dipstick, the level was still in the normal range and it seemed to look fine.

I guess this thing must have had a cracked block. Is it possibel a sealer would fix this long enough to get rid of it? What is this thing worth at a junk yard?

I am assuming the starting problem is due to fuel sync issues? How woudl I go about adjusting that at home without a scan tool?

Any help is appreciated! I am going to go cry now.....

Reply to
stryped
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stryped wrote in news:49a8e882-c358-4b68-b9d2- snipped-for-privacy@v4g2000vba.googlegroups.com:

Were you not told to run the engine for 20 minutes or so? Exhaust systems won't get hot enough to burn off anything in them until about that time anyway. For all you know, you've got small puddles in the cat and in the muffler and resonator, and maybe in the low spots in the pipes. "A minute or so" is not nearly enough to burn anything off.

I think you're panicking too soon. Run the engine until full warm, make sure the thermostat opens and the temperature stabilizes, and worry about the gas issue later.

Reply to
Tegger

I ran it more than a minute. I was sayign after a minute smoke came out. I kept runnign it after that. I let it get up to operating temp on the guage. Not sure of how long it took to do that.

When I get home I will let it sit and idle for awhile.

Reply to
stryped

Assuming that you disconnected the battery before starting to work on the engine, it will take a bit for the PCM to relearn the idle settings.

No doubt the exhaust system got loaded with errant coolant and oil, you were _warned_ yesterday that it is going to smoke out the exhaust until the entire exhaust heats up enough to burn the errant fluids off.

yeah... brief running isn't going to heat the exhaust up enough to burn off the junk. Brief running isn't going to build enough cooling system pressure to cause a block leak to reveal itself. Your attitude of defeat is a bit premature.

Not ironic at all.

Why are you guessing?

How much would a half hour of running cost and exactly what do you think it would hurt at this point?

I wouldn't assume that until I had run the engine long enough for it to relearn the idle.

Tap into the cam and crank sensors with a lab scope, find an example of a known good waveform of the cam/crank signal relationship and adjust accordingly. Much easier and more reliable with a scan tool. (not a code reader) Have you checked the local shops to see what they would charge to check/set the cam synch? Wanna send me a fully refundable (minus any damage) $8000.00 deposit to use my DRB 3? (you cover shipping both ways of course)

You haven't even given this thing half a chance.

Reply to
aarcuda69062

I did run it until it reached operating temperature last night acording to the guage.

I did notice too that the coolant level had dropped this morning but saw no leaks and the dipstick still looked ok.

Oh, and by the way I pulled the plug last night where there was coolant before I tore this thing apart. There was some white substance on the electrode. What could that be?

Reply to
stryped

stryped wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@n8g2000vbb.googlegroups.com:

But did the thermostat open? Just becuase the gauge gets up to the usual mark does not mean the thermstat has opened.

The coolant probably dropped because air was purged from the system, which is normal after a drain and refill. Top up the rad and reservoir, then check it again after the next drive/cooldown cycle. Eventually the level will stop dropping and you're good to go.

Cocaine?

Look, if the block is cracked, you have absolutely nothing to lose by simply driving the truck and seeing how far it goes.

Instead of micro-analyzing things and crying over stuff that may be perfectly normal, do what aarcuda says and

***give the engine a chance to prove itself***.

Go drive for an hour. More, even. Let it cool four or five hours, then see what things are like after that.

Reply to
Tegger

snipped-for-privacy@n8g2000vbb.googlegroups.com:

I am going ot do that. It is a little hard to drive it on the road as I dont have insurance on it.

I do have a 5 acre field though.

It got up to temperature then dropped down. I assumed it dropped becasue the thermostat opened?

I am goign to let it run tonight for an extended period.

Reply to
stryped

I did run it until it reached operating temperature last night acording to the guage.

I did notice too that the coolant level had dropped this morning but saw no leaks and the dipstick still looked ok.

Oh, and by the way I pulled the plug last night where there was coolant before I tore this thing apart. There was some white substance on the electrode. What could that be?

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The white deposit is quite possibly (and likely) silicate residue from the additives incorporated in ethylene glycol antifreeze.

Reply to
Snuckfoe

Meaning a possible leak into the cylinder?

Reply to
stryped

LET THE DAMN THING RUN. It is GOING TO SMOKE. You have to get the ENTIRE exhaust system up to temperature to boil off ALL the water. Until then it will smoke. Coolant, water and oil ALL got into the exhaust system. It is going to take a while to boil it all out.

Reply to
Steve W.

Meaning a possible leak into the cylinder?

-----------------------------------------

Yes, my guess would be that the spark plug did possibly encounter antifreeze.

Reply to
Snuckfoe

stryped wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@k20g2000vbp.googlegroups.com:

Sometimes -- and you're at this stage -- you're too deep into a situation to do anything but forget the details and just dive in all the way.

Here's another suggestion: Start the engine and just let it idle for an hour or two. You could rev the engine and hold it to 2,000 or 2,500 rpm for a minute or so once in a while.

That's not as stringent as actually driving it, but if anything's going to go wrong, it probably will do it during that test.

You can monitor the temperature gauge, the reservoir level and the upper rad hose every few minutes or so until you're sure it won't overheat on you.

Reply to
Tegger

snipped-for-privacy@k20g2000vbp.googlegroups.com:

I will do that tonight. SOrry guys I have alot going on now and this did not help. I am on vacation next week with the family to FLorida and am in a panic to get alot of things done. It is my first vacation in 10 years or so.

Reply to
stryped

"Snuckfoe" snuckfoe @ cox.net wrote in news:R1TXl.21689$ snipped-for-privacy@newsfe23.iad:

Come on, don't scare the guy; he's paranoid enough as it is.

And so what if it is antifreeze? If it's residue from the surgery, then it's meaningless. If it's from a cracked block, he's got nothing to lose by letting the engine run anyway.

Reply to
Tegger

Should you not have noticed, I've neither reported suppositions about an antifreeze source nor drawn any definitive conclusions as to the overall problem nor the specific issue at hand. What I have instead said was that one possible source (of white deposits on a spark plug) could be silicate residue from the additives incorporated in ethylene glycol antifreeze.

Reply to
Snuckfoe

These were new spark plugs by the way.

Reply to
stryped

"Snuckfoe" wrote in news:ylUXl.10101$ snipped-for-privacy@newsfe17.iad:

Which is exactly what stryped is completely obsessed with at this point. Feeding his obsession by whatever means is pointless.

Reply to
Tegger

Is that one of the cylinders that antifreeze got into while you were working on it? Liquid gets down into the rings when exposed and will burn off when running.

Reply to
Paul

Invoking a pean to ignorance as an improved methodology or efficacious approach to a solution is risible if not delusionary.

Reply to
Snuckfoe

"Snuckfoe" wrote in news:a%WXl.43044$Mf7.13033 @newsfe16.iad:

You spelt "paean" wrong.

Plus, what I wrote was not a paean.

Your sesquipedalian postings are more magniloquent than you may wish to believe.

Reply to
Tegger

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