Exhaust patch

I have a patch at the rear of the exhaust, between the muffler and the pipe feeding it. It has lasted 3 years ! It's hotter up there where you are of course, so might not work as well, but it might work great. It's called "Tiger tape". It wraps around the pipe, and the heat melts it onto the pipe nice and tight. Only costs 2 or 3 bucks.

|Hi, i have a 93 hyundai excel, and the exhaust has been giving me problems |forever. The main issue is a tiny iny hole between the frontpipe and the |flex pipe. | |I replaced the flex pipe with a straight pipie, the engine doesnt rumble |enought. Sadly, with a leaky fuel system, i didnt wanna get down there with |a torch, so i need a decent way to patch it. | |I used muffler cement and tin foil, lots of it. just didnt hold up. | |Are there any prodeuc anyone can suggest that can resist the high temp in |teh exhaust, i hope soemone can help, alex

I'd use JB Weld, or one of the similar 2-part putty products. Most will hold up to exhaust temps for quite a while. Be sure to rough up the bonding area with a rasp. You want lots of shiny metal Rex in Fort Worth

Why not spend your time fixing the leaky fuel system first? Leaking fuel seems like a lot more serious issue than a little exhaust noise.

Hi, Alex: What I found that works on burn-through holes and the like in the exhaust system is the following:

- Wire brush and/or file off all loose rust.

- Get some steel wool over the area and work some of it into the hole(s) and around other rough spots so that the wool hangs on the surface.

- Then, spread some muffler cement over the steel wool and press it through the wool to cover the holes and the whole area so that the outside surface of the cement can be smoothened out. Add more cement as necessary. For larger holes you may want to add more steel wool, too. This creates a REINFORCED muffler-cement patch that does not spall off since it is anchored by the steel wool portions in the holes.

- Let the whole th> Hi, i have a 93 hyundai excel, and the exhaust has been giving me problems

If you already know where the leaks are then why in the heck wouldn't you fix them? If it's leaking at a clamp then the clamp is either not tight enough or has been overtightened. If the latter, perhaps there's enough slack in the flexible fuel line to snip the end off and re-clamp. If not, then you'll need to replace that part of the fuel line or the entire line in question.

Do you really want to stand outside your car and watch it burn this time of year? Fuel leaks never slow down >well, its not leaky, its just the hose clamps are a bit leaky when it runs.