Welding Exhaust Manifolds

Sis is now the proud owner of 3x 2.6 SII / III Landrove engines and Pa is in the middle of reinstalling one into JLO, one of which does a good impression of an oilpump. Sadly the best origional manifold has cracks in it and is by the look of it not far from complete failure. Has anyone had any joy arc welding up these manifolds as a repair until a decent one can be obtained?

Lee D.

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Reply to
Lee_D
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The intermediate pipe on my exhaust broke in half the other day, it is now held together with a piece of tin can, hose clips, a bit of gun gum, and copper wire.

So far it is holding over the speed humps.

As for manifolds, I wonder what alternatives there are to welding, chewing gum perhaps :)

Reply to
Larry

I welded up the manifold on my old 2.25 without much problem using an industrial mig welder so can't see any reason why it shouldn't arc weld

Andy

-- SWB Series 2a ( dressed as a 3) "Bruce" It's big it's mean it's really really green

Reply to
Andy.Smalley

Lee_D posted ...

We had a 2 1/4 petrol S3 manifold professionally mig welded (my brother's a welder by trade) .. I dunno what difference arc welding would make ... ;)

Reply to
Paul - xxx

Most 101 owners have had to try this at some point! :-)

I luckily scooped a few off Craig, then, got a new pair at a club meet. Untill then both mine were very heavily welded.

Reply to
Mother

What, are we going for some kind of haiku format here? :)

Reply to
David French

You should be fine just grind a groove into the crack to ensure a sound job. Also if you can get your hands on a leak detection kit you can prove it before you bolt back on. The kit consists three spray cans, cleaner, dye, and developer.

If your close to the midlands (M6, J7) i can lend you a kit or possibly get in done for you at work.

Mark

e-mail me @ snipped-for-privacy@btopenworld.com

Reply to
Jinx

Cast iron needs special rods, and a preheat before / anneal after welding for decent results, else it just breaks again.

Steve

Reply to
Steve

Quite amusing to think I've got one sitting out back, unfortunatly it's still attached to a running vehicle. Unlikely I'll be scrapping it before May is out though.

Also quite amusing to think that you're still trying to get a decent engine for yours, when best advice says to junk it and fit something which will last. Still, I guess you know now why nobody wants the 2.6 lumps.

Bite the bullet, fit a 2.5 four-pot!

Alex

Reply to
Alex

On or around Fri, 09 Apr 2004 23:34:23 +0100, Steve enlightened us thusly:

that's what I was about to say...

and I'll add one for you - an exhaust manifold has a machined face down one side, if your welding will affect this, then you need to either weld it already bolted on or bolted to a reference plane.

welding things almost always distorts 'em. I'd find a professional to do it, meself, or at least use a genuine scrap one to practice on.

Reply to
Austin Shackles

Austin Shackles posted ...

That's the best advice so far.

It took my bro quite a while to prep it correctly. When it began to blow again a couple of years later, it wasn't his welding that went ... ;)

Reply to
Paul - xxx

T'was easier to read wot I wus typin on my PDA screen :-)

Reply to
Mother

Quite amusing? Best advice is dependant on ones desired outcome of the applied effort... in this case the desired outcome is an origional revamped SIII not a butchered one. If Sis wanted an economical cheap to run 4x4 based on best advice then she wouldn't have a Landrover.... but thats not what she wants.

Like I said previously to your last post on the 2.6 lumps, not my car or decission and given the cost of the replacement engines it's going to be a long while until the Car as a whole owes owt. So accepting the facts, yes they are inefficient, they are hard to get parts for and they are little better than a four pot and considerably worse than a V8 I still have to take my hat off to my sister and respect the fact she wishes to keep it origional... something many self respecting landrover fans should take a long hard look at, myself included.

Lets face it, if common sense ruled engine replacement any landrover product engine would be off the list.

It's not a case of **Having** to fit an origional engine but **Wanting** to.... I think we've more than a proven history of fitting any old lump because we can.

I'm surprised that you bothered to replace the head gasket on yours given all your feelings towards this engine.

But all that aside, assuming I was to sneak in a four pot 2.5.... how do I get it to sound like a 2.6 6 cylinder...... not the same is it.

Lee D

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formatting link
Just a little hobby site about Landies :-) ________________________________

Reply to
Lee_D

I agree with you there, I love the sound of a six-pot. As for head gasket, I havn't replaced it! The head bolts are seized in, due to electrolytic corrosion caused by the water leak. I'm going to scrap it, when it finally blows it's top, or I need the rest of it for my project.

Talking of parts, do you want a head gasket for a 2.6? I've got one spare since I won't be using mine.

Alex

Reply to
Alex

you can arc weld the manifold so long as there is still enough decent steel content it to facilitate the weld taking to it as opposed to blowing a hole in it .

there are some good cast rods about now thats strike ok , you can also use either dissimilar rods or stainless rods if you want .

best to use a DC current welder and 2.5mm rods with about 75-100 amps

other than that you have to braze it .

you can try mig welding it, but even though mig welding will leave a weld on the manifold it will not hold it together and will crack straight away along edge of weld .

DO NOT COOL WITH WATER AFTER WELDING , ALLOW TO COOL NATURALLY OR COVER WITH SAND AND LET TO COOL

Reply to
M0bcg

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