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Ford 4.6L V8 intake gasket surface

1999 mustang GT, 4.6L SOHC. The intake manifold gasket failed around the thermostat housing causing a leak. Upon removal a couple small corrosion divets were found where the seal is made with the gasket. The gasket is a plastic frame with a silicone bead for each passage. With the new gaskets the leak is greatly reduced to a small weep and will seal up at operating temp but now is directing coolant into the #5 plug well (which of course causes a misfire). Other than using a 'stop leak' product, it has to come apart again.

My question is how to fill these fill these corrosion divets? JB Weld or another epoxy? Or is there some other product that can do this. These divets are very small. One is the size of a golf ball dimple the other is more a line and is thinner than 14 gauge wire. The second is about a

1/4 inch long.
Reply to
Domokun
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Well Devcon would probably work. Or you could take it to a welder and have it TIG welded back flush, then machined flat.

Reply to
Steve W.

JB Weld. Or a product called Liquid Steel. Fill the divots slightly above the level os the machined surface and allow to cure completely. Then draw-file gently until the filler is flush with the machined surface.

Reply to
the fly

I don't know about JB Weld holding with engine heat, however I use an epoxy product called Pyro-Putty to fill pits or corrosion, in machined surfaces, that get high temps. The product's original application is to fill cracks in exhaust manifolds..

Reply to
bobj

There maybe better epoxies than JB, I use MarineTex, but most of my experience is with less heated areas. Anyway, about this one divet that appears as a line. That sounds like a crack. Don't know how serious this may be if so or if in fact it is a crack but if it is then it will need much more thought than the divet you think you have. Use a magnifying glass to examine, to begin with, or may need Mag-na- fluxing (are our blocks iron?).

disston '95 CV 306K w/ Ford rebuilt long block 125K Was a similar problem killed the original motor

Reply to
disston

first, thanks to all that responded.

2nd, JB weld is good to the coolant temps given the package and past experience. The other products are worth checking out.

The 'line' one is like a trench that was eaten away close where the gasket's frame failed. It follows the line of the gasket's seal exactly. It's very clearly a corrosion pit. It formed where the coolant and air would have met.

Reply to
Domokun

If it's an aluminum manifold, JB weld (24 hour, not the 5 minute) followed by careful draw filing would be OK, weld and resurface better, new manifold best. If it's plastic replace it. HTH< Ben

Reply to
ben91932

I should have been more clear. The corrosion pit is on the head. The plastic manifold surface appears fine.

Reply to
Domokun

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