GM radio swap

Have you tried searching on the Internet? There are tons of data available for 2006 Silverados and SUV's.

You may need a can-bus adaptor since the radio is an integral part of the vehicle. C2R-GM.

I won't tell you it's foolish. I will tell you it won't work the way you plan on trying to install it. The OEM unit in that van is controlled through the data bus, all of the memory, clock, light dimming are controlled through the BCM, not the radio itself.

No switched power in the harness either. You will need to find that somewhere else and come up with some way to control the brightness of the buttons and clock.

You would be a lot farther ahead to just grab the optional 9R0 AM/FM/Cass that GM used. BUT you would need to get the VIN in it changed to make it work.

Because it's a base radio I don't think it's got any anti theft control like the higher end units, but you may want to test that by removing it and seeing what still works. The higher end ones will kill a few things when removed because they are VIN locked.

BUT If you still want to try. Get one of the plug in adapter harnesses instead of cutting, just in case you have a problem. That will also have the wires you need marked on it.

Black w/white stripe is Ground (pin A12) Red w/white stripe is un-switched battery Positive.(pin B1)

Speakers Fronts - Dark Blue (pin A8) - LF Pos. Light Blue (pin A9) - LF Neg.

Orange (pin B11)- RF Pos. Dark Green (pin B10 - RF Neg.

Rears - Tan (pin B8) - LR Pos. White (pin B9) - LR Neg.

Tan (pin A10)- RR Pos. Orange (pin A11 - RR Neg.

These pins are easy to figure out, there are two rows, the top are row A the bottom row B. If you look at the speaker pins you can see they are located in a single "block" of 8 pins. So the dark blue of the LF speaker is over the tan wire of the LR.

Notice that there are 2 orange and 2 tan? Don't mix them up.

There will be a third orange wire in terminal A1. That wire is the data wire, DON'T TRY CONNECTING ANYTHING TO IT... It would be really easy to fry the computer if you did.

This is a misguided idea.

However, if you really want to do this, Crutchfield will get you a copy of the harness pinout, and they will also make you up an adaptor between the old radio and the new wiring harness.

The nice thing about all of this stuff is the color codes are pretty universal. Wish that was the case for the engine harnesses...

--scott

On Tuesday, July 25, 2017 at 5:38:55 PM UTC-4, snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote :

in it. I have a 1990 GM AM FM cassette radio that has seen many vehicles ov er the years. I have rebuilt the cassette mechanism and it is in perfect wo rking condition. It is coming out of my 2002 van before that goes to the ju nk yard. I would like to install that radio in the 2006. I went to the deal er to ask if he could please pull a print of the 2006 wiring harness showin g colors, etc, but he said that that information was not available. I know that when I did this swap into the 2002 years ago I don't recall having any trouble finding this information. In fact I think that it was at this part icular dealership that I did. He says that all he could pull up was a pictu re of the whole harness which doesn't break down to colors of wires. Could it be that he only has access to a "parts" manual and what I'm looking for would be in a separate "service" manual?

the harness and splice the 1990 connector in it's place. I don't care about power antenna or chimes etc. I just need the 2006 harness colors for power , standby power for the clock and tuner memory, and front and rear speakers , and ground.

it is to install a 1990 radio into a 2006 vehicle, please don't bother. Thi s is what I would like to do.

First let me say guys that I really appreciate the help. The 1990 is a nice sounding radio and all my music is on cassettes. but I have a few more que stions if you wouldn't mind.

Is the annoying "Bong Bong" sound that comes out of the speakers when you l eave your keys in the ignition or the door is opened even with the radio of f digital data generated by the body control module, and then is this data pumped into the radio via that orange wire on terminal A1?

As far as the clock brightness can't I just tap into the instrument panel l ighting circuit? And as to the switched power do I really need it? Couldn't I put constant power to both the switched and unswitched terminals on the harness? I would think that it would just mean that I would then have to m anually turn the radio off each time I parked the car. Not a hard thing to forget. It might also allow me to play the radio without turning the igniti on switch to accy. Lenny

Is your time worth absolutely nothing? Instead of spending all of the needed time on a workaround to all the problems with this swap, just buy a head that works with your vehicle. And even if your cassette player is working perfectly, cassettes are crap, and just get worse as they are played, and even if they're not played. Spend the time you would have spent making that relic radio work on copying those cassettes one time to high quality MP3's, and make sure the radio you buy has a USB port, or at least an aux input so you can put the MP3's on your phone. One more side benefit is that you will not have to concern yourself with the continued degradation of those cassettes, and you can even toss them. One USB stick will hold all of the cassettes you could possibly own. You can even convert those cassettes to a higher quality format like FLAC just for permanent storage, and then make MP3 copies of those to use in the car. Some car radios play a limited number of file formats.

There are excellent car radios out there these days for surprisingly little money.

On Tuesday, July 25, 2017 at 5:38:55 PM UTC-4, snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote :

in it. I have a 1990 GM AM FM cassette radio that has seen many vehicles ov er the years. I have rebuilt the cassette mechanism and it is in perfect wo rking condition. It is coming out of my 2002 van before that goes to the ju nk yard. I would like to install that radio in the 2006. I went to the deal er to ask if he could please pull a print of the 2006 wiring harness showin g colors, etc, but he said that that information was not available. I know that when I did this swap into the 2002 years ago I don't recall having any trouble finding this information. In fact I think that it was at this part icular dealership that I did. He says that all he could pull up was a pictu re of the whole harness which doesn't break down to colors of wires. Could it be that he only has access to a "parts" manual and what I'm looking for would be in a separate "service" manual?

the harness and splice the 1990 connector in it's place. I don't care about power antenna or chimes etc. I just need the 2006 harness colors for power , standby power for the clock and tuner memory, and front and rear speakers , and ground.

it is to install a 1990 radio into a 2006 vehicle, please don't bother. Thi s is what I would like to do.

I'm 71 and semi retired. I don't own a smart phone or any of the other equi pment that you mentioned and I wouldn't know how to do what you suggested e ither. In addition my hearing is so bad that I would never appreciate the b enefits of digital conversion anyway. And at this stage of the last roundup I don't really want to have to buy another radio when I already have one t hat should be able to do the job with some finageling. So it may not seem l ike it to you but I'm trying to use what I already have and keep it simple . Copied from my first post:

"Let me add that if you feel it necessary to tell me how foolish you feel i t is to install a 1990 radio into a 2006 vehicle, please don't bother. This is what I would like to do".

Lenny

ALL of the warning and info chimes come from the BCM and through the radio. Headlight, key in ignition, low fuel, seatbelt, low fluids, check gauges all come through the data bus.

Nope, the brightness for those lights are BCM controlled. In the current radio it uses that signal on the data bus to tell a chip how bright to make the lighting, the 1990 unit doesn't have that chip. The 1990 radio uses a variable voltage from the dimmer control, no voltage like that is in the 06 harness, or available to tap into.

The switched power is needed to be sure the amp and internals in the radio turn off when you turn off the key because they do take some power. Forget to turn it off once and the van sets overnight, you will be walking in the morning.

On Tuesday, July 25, 2017 at 5:38:55 PM UTC-4, snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote :

in it. I have a 1990 GM AM FM cassette radio that has seen many vehicles ov er the years. I have rebuilt the cassette mechanism and it is in perfect wo rking condition. It is coming out of my 2002 van before that goes to the ju nk yard. I would like to install that radio in the 2006. I went to the deal er to ask if he could please pull a print of the 2006 wiring harness showin g colors, etc, but he said that that information was not available. I know that when I did this swap into the 2002 years ago I don't recall having any trouble finding this information. In fact I think that it was at this part icular dealership that I did. He says that all he could pull up was a pictu re of the whole harness which doesn't break down to colors of wires. Could it be that he only has access to a "parts" manual and what I'm looking for would be in a separate "service" manual?

the harness and splice the 1990 connector in it's place. I don't care about power antenna or chimes etc. I just need the 2006 harness colors for power , standby power for the clock and tuner memory, and front and rear speakers , and ground.

it is to install a 1990 radio into a 2006 vehicle, please don't bother. Thi s is what I would like to do.

They sure didn't make this easy. Thanks, Lenny

Nope, and your vehicle is equipped with the most basic radio they have. The next one up is MUCH more integrated into the system. There are many that you cannot even remove or the vehicle won't run. Not just GM but pretty much all of the auto makers have gone this route.

Common practice for people who decide to install anything other than factory is to remove the stock unit, extend the factory harness and tuck it into a spot out of sight. Under the seats, in the trunk or stuffed behind the dash are popular. They use the factory speaker locations and wiring if possible and wire in one speaker to the OEM unit and tuck it out of the way as well. That way the vehicle doesn't melt down...

It's why I would suggest locating one of the AM/FM/Cassette OR the AM/FM/CD/Cassette units that GM used. That would plug in and once it was coded with the VIN from your van it would work very well. If you go to

and punch in your year, make/model the radio option you are looking for and a location, it will give you a list of salvage yards that have a compatible unit in stock, plus the prices. Around me the AM/FM/Cassette units are about $40.00 The higher end units with CD are around $100.00 Most of those places will ship if you don't find one local to you.

I tried going that route eight years ago when I bought the 2002. I just fig ured I'd get a similar year AM FM cassette Delco radio, and that would be t he end of it. I went through 3 junk yard radios. They all had just a red L ED that blinked. Then I learned about the VIN in the radio needing to be re programmed in order to match the VIN of the vehicle that it would be going into. The radio was to be 45.00 and the dealer wanted another 89.00 to do t he reprogram. That was when I decided to not get screwed by the technology and make use of my 1990 radio. I haven't checked lately but I'm pretty sure that the reprogram charge hasn't gone down. But based on what you have alr eady told me Steve and the wire color code that you provided I think that I can get the 1990 to work.

I installed my alarm system over this past weekend. And although I'm using "dome light hot side going to 12 volts" as a trigger and it is working it i s sporadic because of the flaky front door latch switches. Yes that's right I said "switches" because I have determined that BOTH front doors are inte rmittent. I confirmed this with one non working door open at a time and the dome lights off. The wires to the door latch switch are brown and white. D uring this (door open and dome light not working) condition, putting a shor t across these two wires will turn on the dome lights every time.

The side door on both this van as well as the 2002 uses a mechanical pin t ype switch that is NC when the door is opened. I've scrounged the one from the 2002 and when I'm at the junk yard later this week I'll pick up another one. I did actually toy with the idea of pulling the window crank assembli es out of the 2002, stripping the good latches out of them and installing them in the 2006. However I just can't justify the amount of work necessary to do this. so I'll install these pin type switches in both front door jam bs and (hopefully) kiss this stupid problem goodbye.

There is another problem I wanted to ask about. I may have previously menti oned that this van had sat outside on my lawn for almost three years. I kno w that was stupid and I do regret it but it's done. After this period of ti me when I turned on the blower there was a loud rumbling sound and there wa s very little air coming through the vents. I removed the blower motor and saw that the mice had built a nest in the duct work. I was able to remove a lot of it by hand and then I fed the vacuum cleaner hose in. After this I tried it and noted good air coming through the front vents. Unfortunately I don't recall if I had thought to check the other switch positions at that time. I removed the blower again and I reached in though and was able to fe el more nest material in the duct and so I decided to run the hose in there one more time. This time as I snaked it in I turned it and at the same tim e slowly withdrew it while gently flopping it around. I reinstalled the mot or but this time no matter which blower function position I tried I only go t strong air flow coming out of the right side floor vent and the defroster vents. In going through the switch positions I can't hear any small actuat or motors trying to open doors or anything like that either. There doesn't seem to be much of anything coming out of the left side front floor vent an d now nothing much from the front anymore either. Does anyone have any idea what I could have upset inside the duct that last time with the hose that could have caused this? If need be I can survive as long as I have a good d efroster but it would be nice, if possible (as long as it doesn't involve r emoving the duct) to have everything working as it should be.

The last item which also did work fine before I set the van on the lawn for three years was the air conditioner. There is a separate belt for the comp ressor off the engine. As soon as I started the engine this belt broke. The compressor will not move. Someone suggested that it might be the clutch, h owever it seems to me that it is more likely the main bearing that seems to be set up. Has anyone seen this happen before? Do you think spraying it wi th liquid Wrench or a similar penetrating oil may help?

I'm sorry that this is so long but I really appreciate all the help you guy s have given me. Thanks very much for reading this. Lenny

The latches won't fit anyway. Plus it is not that you have bad switches, they are NOT "normal" switches, they use a computer signal to turn the lights on/off through a signal to the BCM.

You need to install real pin switches if you want the alarm you have to work. Or simply get the factory alarm module that plugs into the harness and sees the factory door modules and controllers.

You really should get acquainted with that van, there are many systems on it that can be easily damaged if you connect up power or ground to the wrong wires. Burning out the BCM or ECM can be big $$$ to repair and even a stripped down base model 2006 will use computer controls for many things.

Sounds like the hose knocked the mode doors shut and blocked the duct. The only real way to repair that is to remove the HVAC unit and repair the door. The motors would have reset them if the doors were still OK.

That would be most likely be the clutch pulley bearing that seized. It allows the drive pulley to turn freely and when the clutch is energized it spins the compressor input shaft. That can be replaced as a separate part on most compressors, but you would want to be sure the compressor itself works as it could be seized from setting that long. If you reach in and grab the hub (not the pulley the belt drives) does it turn easily? If not the compressor may be toast as well.