Help identifying leak

I have a 1998 Pontiac TransPort Montana that just started leaking a fairly clear viscous fluid. Similar to the consistency if motor oil, but almost clear with a light pinking hue. If one is standing on the driver side there are a couple of lines that are grouped together that go the length of the vehicle from the engine to near the rear axle. I can't tell where the lines go after that. Anyway, the leak exists in the line one closest to the outside of the vehicle and is coming from where a female pipe connects over the male part. I'm thinking it's brake fluid. Any ideas, as I can't get it in the shop until the end of the week? Thanks in advance.

Reply to
Geo
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a guess, the two lines might be the fuel inlet line and the fuel return line, the inlet line is a bit larger.

and the pinkish colored liquid that you are concerned with most likely is x-mission fluid,

however, some radiator coolant might be pinkish - these days.

you might give it the smell test, wet your finger in the "leak" and smell, what's it smell like?

let us know, we are concerned, too.

mho v=83e

Reply to
fiveiron

Reply to
Shep

snipped-for-privacy@webtv.net writes in article dated Mon, 17 Apr 2006

14:07:39 -0500:

I don't know anything about the Pontiac Transport Montana in particular, but assuming it has the engine and tranny in the front, the only fluids normally going to the rear are gasoline (2 lines -- supply and return) and brake fluid (1 line per wheel). Tranny fluid and coolant stay in the front.

Gasoline is much less viscous than motor oil, so by elimination the leak is almost certainly brake fluid.

You'll need that section of brake line replaced, and the brake cylinder it goes to bled.

-- spud_demon -at- thundermaker.net The above may not (yet) represent the opinions of my employer.

Reply to
Spud Demon

I would recommend you check the brake fluid. There is a reservoir on the engine side of the brake pedal on the firewall You can top it up but beware that a leaky fitting can blow out and you can lose your brakes. In theory only the back brakes should go out, but the uneven pressure on the master cylinder can blow it out too....

It is not safe to drive like that. If you do make sure your emergency brake works and that you know how to use it to slow down.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail >
Reply to
Mike Romain

Get it to the shop NOW!!!!!!!!!!!!! That's almost certainly brake fluid!!!!!!!!!

Reply to
Knifeblade_03

Sure, but as I said I can't get the vehicle in to the shop until Friday. I just wanted to get an idea of what I'm dealing with here until I can get it in.

Reply to
Geo

Well, it turns out that the leak was an air conditioning line. They tell me it's $550 parts & labor. Think I'll roll down the windows to keep cool. Has anyone ever done this kind of repair? Is there any kind of sealer I can just put over the connection?

Reply to
taxpayer779

whew!

glad to hear that's not the brake fluid leak...

walmart or any autoparts aftermarket sells R134A w/ some "sealer" oil combinations... you can try introducing some of that stuff thru the low side connector... I've got the kit w/ the gauge on it to see how much freon is in the system...

is it a big tear in the line? metal or rubber? there are a variety of tapes/ chemicals that may seal it... cover that leak, then have the system evacuated of moisture, then use that kit u bought from walmart/auto parts store...

Reply to
ricebike

Thanks for the follow up!

When I see leaky fittings like that, I normally will just put a wrench on it and try to tighten it up. That works 90% of the time....

Your description of the leak has me wondering though.... I was under the 'definite' impression AC systems are filled with a gas, not a liquid at atmospheric pressure so I really can't see how you can have enough of this gas lying on the ground to feel it or see color in it?????

I mean the AC systems do puke out a clear liquid as they run which is condensation......

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail >
Reply to
Mike Romain

Me too. I was pretty paranoid driving it until I could get it to the shop.

Actually, there is no tear. It just looks like the female end that covers the male end is loosening up and sprung a leak. It no longer leaks, which I guess means the freon is gone, but maybe not. Assuming it is empty is replacement of freon a specialty job? What is involved with evacuation of the system?

Thank you (and the other posters) for your advice.

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Reply to
taxpayer779

Mike, sorry if I am re-sending this. I thought I posted but maybe it's hung up in net land somewhere.

Anyway, the guy at the shop I talked to said the oil substance was some kind of by-product of the freon and cooling mechanism. Since I have no clue I guess I have to take his word for it. So, at $550 I will stick with rolling down the window to keep cool.

Reply to
taxpayer779

I asked the guy there about it and he said it was oil from some reaction with the freon. I didn't understand what he was talking about and I really didn't know what else to ask since I was clueless about it so I just took his word for it. I did know that I wasn't about to drop $550 on it.

Reply to
taxpayer779

They also contain oil that the refrigerant carries thru the system. Something has to lube the compressor. Oil around A/C lines or components is a sure sign of a refrigerant leak.

And it's not a 'reaction with the freon'. If the guy told me that, I'd look for another A/C guy.

Reply to
ZZ

oops, ok... then the aftermarket retrofit kit u can get @ a local parts place or walmart may work (the gauge/hose combo... 3 cans of R134a oil/freon/sealer... and a CD instruction manual may get u going again...)

you'll probably have to get a professional to evacuate the system 1st & to determine how much of the AC oil has leaked out (u don't want to seize the compressor or have dried out o-rings!)...

Reply to
ricebike

ac compressors require an oil (lubricant), it's clear, and slightly viscous.

a system under pressure will eject the oil / freon - when there is a "leak",

and after repairs have been made, the system should be serviced.

There use to be cans of freon available with an oil additive - as a special item.

Don't over lubricate. If only a bit of lubricant was lost - one can of freon with oil might do the trick.

probably the right way is to purge the system of oil / freon within the mandated guidelines, and recharge the system.

and connection points within the a-c lines usually use an "o" ring to seal better. - it will at times "dry-out" from lack of lubricant and/or with age and become loose / leak.

mho v=83e

Reply to
fiveiron

And a few weeks later you'll be paying $1500 or so to have your whole A/C system replaced after that junk has plugged the system and probably killed your compressor.

Reply to
ZZ

the kits i spoke of earlier has a small additive of oil for the 134A freon... some stores actually sells a higher concentration of oil: see "oil charge" that can be used w/ that low-side gauge/hose kit...

I agree that a professional has to evacuate the system of moisture & to guesstimate the amount of oil left in the system... you can temp get away w/ using that freon/oil/sealer kit after the 1st can's introduction in your "dry" system...

Reply to
ricebike

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