Idle problems when temp is cold...

First you post this: I see two problems. First off, with a 180 thermostat in it, you will 'always' need to two foot drive until it warms up. What happens is the choke is on an electric timer that doesn't give a crap about how warm the engine 'really' is when it shuts the choke off and you have a thermostat in there designed to not let the engine warm up fast. These are not a good combination in the winter.

And all through the thread, you talk about a choke timer/choke timer relay.

Then your last post has these remarks: As long as the electric choke's bi-metal element sees power, it stays open once it has heated up and expanded to the open position. If the power shuts off with the engine running, the choke closes and the engine chokes out.

No which is it?! Electric chokes have timers?! Electric chokes don't have timers?! Does the choke see power all the time, or sometime?! ( I know the answer, so don't bother.)

And who knows what you mean when you say: "First off, with a 180 thermostat in it, you will 'always' need to two foot drive until it warms up. ( What?! Don't try to explain this either.)

And your little derogatory remarks are so cute. You know, all of these that you put in your posts;

1)"You should have a 'little' knowledge before saying what is 'true' or not. Maybe go ask your daddy" 2)"You are a total moron aren't you?" 3)"Besides having no clue about a carburetor, you also apparently cannot read either" 4)"Too simple for you idiot techs eh? If the computer don't tell you what's up, you are screwed." 5)"You are an obvious idiot with no mechanical knowledge. I 'really' hope you were kidding about working on customers vehicles." 6)"Is that so very hard to understand? I know, before your time and with no diagnostic computer to explain it just too confusing and too simple of a concept to handle eh" 7)"These fancy gizmos are before computers, purely electromechanical devices that obviously seem to screw up computer thinking brains."

And that's just in this thread. Sheesh.

You are da man!

Now into the hermetically sealed "Spam Can" with you, and bury you deep in the waste pile at Weirdo Ville.

"PLONK"

Reply to
willy
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OK kids... play nice!

: )

With a 180' thermostat, there will be NO difference in cold startup.

There MAY be a difference in the heater temp once the thermostat is fully open. Just because the thermostat opens at 180' doesn't mean that the engine won't get any hotter.

The problems I'm having with my van are either A) a faulty electrical choke or electrical fault at the choke OR B) dirty float valve that sometimes lets the fuel flood the carburetor.

An electric choke gets warmer when power is applied. When warmer, it moves the choke plate in the carb. Once it's fully warm the power stays on and the choke plate stays open. The choke does not go to full open instantly, but opens more as it warms up. If it's colder outside, it may cause the choke to open slower. A mechancially heated choke will do a better job when extremely cold, but both should be fine.

Reply to
Noozer

Please leave me 'plonked'!

I sure don't need someone who says they don't know if a carb controls fuel or air trying to correct me on carb related problems.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06
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Reply to
Mike Romain

The trouble with the 180 thermostat and the choke is the engine starts it's cooling cycle at 180 taking appreciable time to get up hotter even if it can on a real cold day. The choke's bi-metal spring is 'timed' to be fully open about the same 'time' a 195 would have the engine heated up so the gas vaporizes nice on an average temperature day.

With the cold t-stat the engine will want more gas until it actually finishes warming up so you need to 2 foot drive them or wait. They are fine or not as bad in warmer temperatures, but that first stop after you head out can be a stall still. This is aggravated in high humidity also it seems.

I got tired of waiting because I need to 3 foot drive with my 5 speed, so went with a manual choke. It works in 'all' temperatures and humidities. :-)

I think your choke should be ok once you change the t-stat. If it had a bad connection, it would be staying closed bogging out the engine.

The float needle is a regularly needed clean for me as I mentioned....

As for internal heat, I have had crap for heat in any vehicle with a cold t-stat. Back in my days in garages and big V8's, some folks would put a 180 in for the summer and switch it out for the 195 come winter.

Mike

Noozer wrote:

Reply to
Mike Romain

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