Low Brake Pedal on Ranger

Truck is a 93 Ford Ranger Super Cab, 3.0l, 5-sp, about 82k miles. It's been sitting for a couple months and now has a very low brake pedal. It goes down to about two inches above the floorboard. At that point it's firm and the brakes work just fine but I don't think it should be so low...it wasn't that way before I parked it. The linings & pads are fine, there's no fluid loss and no leakage around the wheel cylinders or calipers. The Brake warning light is not on. Hoses seem fine, no bulges or soft spots. It's front disc/rear drum with rear ABS. I suspect the master cylinder. Anything else I should check before replacing it (the master cylinder, that is...)? Thanks...

Reply to
M.M.
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Try adjusting the rear brakes first. HTH, s

Reply to
sdlomi2

I would make sure the rear shoes are adjusted first if it has rear shoes.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail >
Reply to
Mike Romain

Forgot to mention that I'd checked that as well.

Looks like master cylinder, huh??

Reply to
M.M.

Is your emergency brake low too or is it right at the top few clicks?

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Aug./05
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Reply to
Mike Romain

I would suggest you perform a two man bleeding procedure before condemning the master cylinder. The man in the car should pump the pedal rapidly while the other has the bleeder CLOSED, then stop pumping after a few strokes and apply soft pressure to the pedal. He should then signal you to OPEN the bleeder as he maintains slow, light, even pressure on the pedal until nearing the floor. Then he should signal you when he is near the floor so you can CLOSE the bleeder before the pedal bottoms out.

Do this fstarting from farthest wheel to nearest wheel to the MC, then do it at each of the fluid pipes attached to the MC itself. And obviously, keep the resevoir full at all times.

If the problem never returns, then Bob's your uncle. It may have just been caused by old contaminated fluid or some intermittant air leak past a wheel cylinder or caliper piston.

If the pedal height gradually gets worse again in the next few months, then you can be fairly certain that a mechanical component is causing air to enter the systen, and that component is probably the MC. At that point I would replace the master.

Toyota MDT in MO

Reply to
Comboverfish

I would suggest you perform a two man bleeding procedure before condemning the master cylinder. The man in the car should pump the pedal rapidly while the other has the bleeder CLOSED, then stop pumping after a few strokes and apply soft pressure to the pedal. He should then signal you to OPEN the bleeder as he maintains slow, light, even pressure on the pedal until nearing the floor. Then he should signal you when he is near the floor so you can CLOSE the bleeder before the pedal bottoms out.

Do this starting from the farthest wheel to the nearest wheel to the MC, then do it at each of the fluid pipes attached to the MC itself. And obviously, keep the resevoir full at all times.

If the problem never returns, then Bob's your uncle. It may have just been caused by old contaminated fluid or some intermittant air leak past a wheel cylinder or caliper piston.

If the pedal height gradually gets worse again in the next few months, then you can be fairly certain that a mechanical component is causing air to enter the systen, and that component is probably the MC. At that point I would replace the master.

Toyota MDT in MO

Reply to
Comboverfish

That sounds like a good advice. A few bucks worth of brake fluid and an hour's work may save $100 for a new MC. The system is probably way overdue for a flush anyway...

Reply to
M.M.

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