Need to buy a transmission jack for a Tacoma clutch - HF has a sale - advice?

I need to buy a transmission jack for a Tacoma clutch. How heavy is a W59 Toyota Tacoma transmission anyway?

I this 800# jack (on sale until the end of the month) good enough?

Does the 33% cheaper scissor-jack have any merit over the pan type above?

I'm going to replace the clutch, but I have never done a clutch before. I'm familiar with most repairs though, and I have all the required tools.

I will work out of my garage, where I will put the vehicle on four 6-ton jack stands (the garage floor is reasonably level) as high as I can get it.

I am just asking for advice comparing the two types of transmission jacks.

Reply to
harry newton
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Definitely more than adequate. Not pro quality, but all of the required features.

Reply to
clare

snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:

for a one time deal either one will do the job. KB

Reply to
Kevin Bottorff

He who is snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca said on Fri, 27 Oct 2017 22:24:56 -0400:

Thanks. I'll pick up the hydraulic jack for $160 before the end of the month sale goes off. It's cheap compared to the job itself.

I'm debating whether I should rebuild or replace the master cylinder and slave clutch release cylinder.

Toyota prices are the following but I have no experience with rebuilding or replacing them.

Master cylinder repair kit $30 Master cylinder $117 Slave cylinder repair kit $13 Slave cylinder $50

At those prices, which would you go for (rebuild or the whole thing)?

Here are the hydraulic parts:

Reply to
harry newton

IMO, get the hydraulic trans jack. You will find it a lot easier to adjust the height every few minutes while putting the trans back in. The screw one does not appear to have angle adjustments. You will need that. It is critical. The trans weight will be around 115 lbs. More with the front drive box attached. Don't bother trying to rebuild them yourself. If they are pitted then the usual cylinder honing will not fix them and they will leak. Get the already rebuilt cylinder kits, or new.

Reply to
Paul in Houston TX

If it does not have tilt capability the job will be a lot more difficult - whether done once or a dozen times. The hydraulic one definitely has the tilt features required.

Reply to
clare

Did you look for rebuilt ones? They would be priced in the middle and are done under good conditions. Check you local parts store for availability.

There are plenty of YouTube vids on how to rebuild them too.

Reply to
Ed Pawlowski

Unless things are badly corroded, I'd rebuild.

Reply to
clare

Before you buy a jack for one time use, call the local parts stores that have loan a tool programs. Many have trans jacks. Will cost you the price of the jack but when you return it in the same shape you get your money back.

Reply to
Steve W.

He who is snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca said on Fri, 27 Oct 2017 23:54:01 -0400:

The car doesn't have any corrosion at all but of course I wouldn't know what's inside the master and slave cylinder.

But the fluid is black!

I'm going to flush it today but I only have a quart of DOT4 and it calls for DOT3.

Do you think it will harm anything to flush with DOT4 until I can get DOT3 in there until I buy and receive the parts to replace or rebuild the master and slave cylinders?

Reply to
harry newton

Wish I was young again! Took two people to change heavy hydramatics. One under the car to drop it down. The second person would pull you out by your feet with the transmission upon your chest. YOUTH !

Reply to
Ivan Vegvary

Don't know. But I did a clutch job on my FJ40. I'd estimate the tranny and transfer to weigh about 250 lbs. I can lift them if they are lying on the ground, but not to position them for reinstallation.

I took the floor panel off (over the transmission), opened both doors, ran a beam through the doors and hung a chain hoist from it. I don't know if a Tacoma has such a floor panel.

Reply to
Paul Hovnanian P.E.

3, 4, and 5.1 are compatible. To confuse the issue DOT 5 is silicone based and not compatible with any of the others. Mixing them won't work. At best they'll separate out.

The progression mostly comes down to higher boiling points. Disc brakes have less thermal mass than the older drum brakes and can get hotter in operation. ABS adds a few more factors.

I have DOT 5 in my '98 Harley. It's claims to fame are it doesn't absorb water and doesn't harm paint. It does absorb air and is a bitch to bleed. I don't know how widespread it is. It doesn't work with ABS and I've never had a car with it, just the bike.

Since you'll be replacing the seals I'd just flush with 4 and fill it with 4 when you're done. It's a little more expensive but nothing that will break the bank.

Reply to
rbowman

DOT 4 meets and excedes all specs for DOT4 - use it in good faith. It can handle higher temperatures - DOT 4 was introduced for high performance disc brakes that boiled and cooked DOT3.

DO NOT use DOT5.

Reply to
clare

Sorry -DOT 4 meets and excedes all specs for DOT3

Reply to
clare

harry newton posted for all of us...

If you have repaired drum brakes than you can rebuild. If you haven't I don't know if you need any honing tools or not and would go with the re-hacked stuff.

Reply to
Tekkie®

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