Need to buy a transmission jack for a Tacoma clutch - HF has a sale - advice?

I need to buy a transmission jack for a Tacoma clutch. How heavy is a W59 Toyota Tacoma transmission anyway?
I this 800# jack (on sale until the end of the month) good enough?
<https://www.harborfreight.com/800-lb-low-lift-transmission-jack-69685.html
Does the 33% cheaper scissor-jack have any merit over the pan type above? <https://www.harborfreight.com/450-lb-low-lift-transmission-jack-61232.html
I'm going to replace the clutch, but I have never done a clutch before. I'm familiar with most repairs though, and I have all the required tools.
I will work out of my garage, where I will put the vehicle on four 6-ton jack stands (the garage floor is reasonably level) as high as I can get it. <https://www.harborfreight.com/6-ton-jack-stand-set-38847.html
I am just asking for advice comparing the two types of transmission jacks.
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On Fri, 27 Oct 2017 21:52:57 +0000 (UTC), harry newton

Definitely more than adequate. Not pro quality, but all of the required features.
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snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca wrote in wrote:

for a one time deal either one will do the job. KB
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On Sat, 28 Oct 2017 02:46:18 +0000 (UTC), Kevin Bottorff

If it does not have tilt capability the job will be a lot more difficult - whether done once or a dozen times. The hydraulic one definitely has the tilt features required.
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He who is snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca said on Fri, 27 Oct 2017 22:24:56 -0400:

Thanks. I'll pick up the hydraulic jack for $160 before the end of the month sale goes off. It's cheap compared to the job itself.
I'm debating whether I should rebuild or replace the master cylinder and slave clutch release cylinder.
Toyota prices are the following but I have no experience with rebuilding or replacing them.
Master cylinder repair kit $30 Master cylinder $117 Slave cylinder repair kit $13 Slave cylinder $50
At those prices, which would you go for (rebuild or the whole thing)?
Here are the hydraulic parts: <https://partsfactory.camelbacktoyota.com/auto-parts/1997/toyota/4runner/base-trim/2-7l-l4-gas-engine/clutch-cat/hydraulic-system-scat>
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harry newton wrote:

IMO, get the hydraulic trans jack. You will find it a lot easier to adjust the height every few minutes while putting the trans back in. The screw one does not appear to have angle adjustments. You will need that. It is critical. The trans weight will be around 115 lbs. More with the front drive box attached. Don't bother trying to rebuild them yourself. If they are pitted then the usual cylinder honing will not fix them and they will leak. Get the already rebuilt cylinder kits, or new.
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On 10/27/2017 11:11 PM, harry newton wrote:

Did you look for rebuilt ones? They would be priced in the middle and are done under good conditions. Check you local parts store for availability.
There are plenty of YouTube vids on how to rebuild them too.
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On Sat, 28 Oct 2017 03:11:42 +0000 (UTC), harry newton

Unless things are badly corroded, I'd rebuild.
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He who is snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca said on Fri, 27 Oct 2017 23:54:01 -0400:

The car doesn't have any corrosion at all but of course I wouldn't know what's inside the master and slave cylinder.
But the fluid is black!
I'm going to flush it today but I only have a quart of DOT4 and it calls for DOT3.
Do you think it will harm anything to flush with DOT4 until I can get DOT3 in there until I buy and receive the parts to replace or rebuild the master and slave cylinders?
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Wish I was young again! Took two people to change heavy hydramatics. One under the car to drop it down. The second person would pull you out by your feet with the transmission upon your chest. YOUTH !
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On 10/28/2017 07:36 AM, harry newton wrote:

3, 4, and 5.1 are compatible. To confuse the issue DOT 5 is silicone based and not compatible with any of the others. Mixing them won't work. At best they'll separate out.
The progression mostly comes down to higher boiling points. Disc brakes have less thermal mass than the older drum brakes and can get hotter in operation. ABS adds a few more factors.
I have DOT 5 in my '98 Harley. It's claims to fame are it doesn't absorb water and doesn't harm paint. It does absorb air and is a bitch to bleed. I don't know how widespread it is. It doesn't work with ABS and I've never had a car with it, just the bike.
Since you'll be replacing the seals I'd just flush with 4 and fill it with 4 when you're done. It's a little more expensive but nothing that will break the bank.
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On Sat, 28 Oct 2017 13:36:52 +0000 (UTC), harry newton

DOT 4 meets and excedes all specs for DOT4 - use it in good faith. It can handle higher temperatures - DOT 4 was introduced for high performance disc brakes that boiled and cooked DOT3.
DO NOT use DOT5.
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On Sat, 28 Oct 2017 15:39:27 -0400, snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca wrote:

Sorry -DOT 4 meets and excedes all specs for DOT3
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harry newton posted for all of us...

If you have repaired drum brakes than you can rebuild. If you haven't I don't know if you need any honing tools or not and would go with the re-hacked stuff.
--
Tekkie

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harry newton wrote:

Before you buy a jack for one time use, call the local parts stores that have loan a tool programs. Many have trans jacks. Will cost you the price of the jack but when you return it in the same shape you get your money back.
--
Steve W.

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harry newton wrote:

Don't know. But I did a clutch job on my FJ40. I'd estimate the tranny and transfer to weigh about 250 lbs. I can lift them if they are lying on the ground, but not to position them for reinstallation.
I took the floor panel off (over the transmission), opened both doors, ran a beam through the doors and hung a chain hoist from it. I don't know if a Tacoma has such a floor panel.
--
Paul Hovnanian mailto: snipped-for-privacy@Hovnanian.com
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