I was referring to Scott Dorsey's remark.:-) The engine is described in the thread. It was turned w/o plugs before start. I have no clue as to which brand of oil was used.
Thanks,
Peter
"oldkid" schreef in bericht news: snipped-for-privacy@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...
A dry/wet compression test on the engine will tell volumes about how worn out it is! You can get a cheap tester at the auto parts stores or have it done pretty inexpensively.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail >
If it is the oil containing SiO2 - if it is sandy silicon - would the engine still have a chance to survive ? I know I can't do anything else, except change engine for ease of mind.
But this thread seems to point out this pollution and wear is exceptional. I am thinking about the method HLS mentioned about cleaning the oil pan, at least ...
Well, if not ghosts, then at least a close approximation. I agree with everyone who's said that a single-point oil analysis is not very helpful unless it shows UNEQUIVOCAL evidence of coolant or immenent bearing failure, etc. This one is just too muddled to make sense of.
Yes, but it will cost more money. Basically you want to know if the silicon is in solution or part of the particle mix.
But if you did this on a ten-mile sample, it's worthless anyway. Get a real sample with a thousand miles or so on the oil and see.
No, for this you need gas chromatography.
One simple test, though, is to thin the oil down, centrifuge it, and see which of the high and low fractions test positive. This is something your local lab can do.
But with ten miles on the oil, you won't learn anything.
Forgot to mention : if overheating cannot be ruled out, high aluminium wear seems typical of overheating. Leaves Si to be explained if that is true. I would not know where overheating can have occurred, but it is a possibility. Indeed you must feel when you're blind, but you can also smell ...
Thanks,
Peter
"peter" schreef in bericht news:3BPbf.41986$ snipped-for-privacy@phobos.telenet-ops.be...
I had my coolant changed elsewhere, and the engine turned for a while without ( much ) coolant. But I did not notice any problems when I took it back to the road again. And I have driven quite a while before I found this wear in new oil. Pity the mechanic did not keep my old oil as I had asked. There was not so much iron, and the lab person did not have any remarks on that.
Another problem associated with overheating, I read, are wrist pins. and they generate aluminium possibly as well.
My worry is that bearings maybe have had a start in being ruined. So maybe the most sensible thing would be to take the oil pan off, and verify what's in there and in the oil filter, at the same time checking some of the main bearings and the underside of the cylinder walls and pistons. At this moment I don't have the space, time or physical inclination to do so, but I begin to wonder whether that would not be the best of solutions ...
If there's no other silicon than micron-sized and suspended, I could talk to the oil company. The lab technician said I could maybe still drive a hundred miles with this oil, but I see no point in continuing the damage.
So, to really try and have some info, I could ask Opel and the oil company. But am I sure to get help ?
Thanks again,
Peter
schreef in bericht news:2Hlcf.15533$ snipped-for-privacy@newssvr25.news.prodigy.net...
Why not just do a compression test? It takes all of 15 minutes tops to do. Then you know if the engine has any damage.
I would also change the oil and filter again and have the 'new' tested after 10 miles. I would also want to be there to be sure the garage just didn't play me for a fool and only 'say' they changed the oil....
Is that garage in the business of selling or rebuilding engines by any chance?
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail >
I don't know how the compression was before. I could try to borrow a hi-gauge, yes. After I change the oil. Wouldn't it be as cheap to check on the bearings as changing oil twice ? Because I would have to renew the oil after that work again anyway.
I think the garage which changed the oil did not like me to hang around. I hope it didn't offend them. They don't rebuild engines, and I trusted them because they didn't seem all that difficult about "amateurs". I need to tell you I changed the oil first time after storage myself, then had it changed after 2000 miles.
There could be some legal issues involved now anyway. Terribly stressful.
Checking the bearings takes specialty tools like torque wrenches, plastigage and then a pan gasket. It is generally a pain in the but to do in the vehicle. In some vehicles, the engine must come out or be lifted up at the least.
I am still under the impression you sucked a pile of dust that the vacuum job missed into the engine. Especially if you put a whopping
2000 miles on a used air filter with holes blown into it.....
But anyway you look at it, the dust had to get from the combustion chamber to the oil. This would imply high piston ring wear that would show up in a compression test. Some air filters even have the PCV air intake in them that gives a direct route for the dust to the oil via the valve cover.
Do you have an oil pressure gauge? If so, worn bearings will show up as low oil pressure.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail >
Maybe. Just a torque wrench - not too specialised, I have one - and a gasket. I would just check for marks, because nothing showed in the oil about bearing particles.
I don't think the rings have gone that far. I had the impression I had torque and power driving those 10 miles. However, I can't really compare - again. I can't know about the air filter, but the quantities seem out of proportion. Because they can't come from those 2000 miles, they're suspended and uniformly present ( took two samples top and bottom which showed identical ).
I have a fourth sample coming up, and another feedback from the lab. It was sent in by an engine rebuilder. Maybe he'll make a price for whatever is necessary, and give some feedback.
Easier to get and use a hi-gauge than an oil gauge, probably ?
I'm terribly sorry I can't go further than bits and bytes yet. I'll make sure to post any outcome for your info.
Thanks,
Peter
"Mike Romain" schreef in bericht news: snipped-for-privacy@sympatico.ca...
I for one am curious, so an update would be appreciated.
The plastigauge tells the wear on the bearings. You remove the bearing cap and put the plastic rod inside and torque it back on, then remove it and see how far the rod flattened. The stuff comes with a gauge that says how much clearance there is according to how flat it got. If there were no bearing particles in the oil, well.... As for the 2000 miles with no real air filter, you still don't say you actually saw them change the oil....
I have tried plastigauge once. Not so easy I thought. Also, I had the impression since you take away the clearance, you can have particles embedded in the bearings by doing this. I really think I had that problem, but of course they could have been there before.
I can think your last remark can explain something, but not all. All depends then on how much problems there are with the rings.
Forgot to mention I did this on an engine I was about to assemble, ie. on a dry assembly. I admit I just tried to have an idea and maybe that's not the proper conditions to use plastigauge.
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