outside brake pad more worn?

Turning a wheel with it off the ground may or may not tell you anything unless it is definitely too tight. Even this may not tell you much on some older brakes that did not fully retract. A drop of a couple hundred degrees in temp may allow it to fully release. In this case, stop and go driving would aggravate an improperly fitted pad while highway driving may never be noticed as a problem. I have seen loose or worn wheel bearing do this. If the load is lifted from the wheel, the brake may retract and not be noticed as a problem.

Your best insurance is regular brake inspection at the same time you regularly rotate and balance your tires. I always tell the service folks that I want to personally look at the brakes when the wheels are removed for whatever reason. Many times, they will offer to do this for me. I much prefer to look at them and make the call myself. After all, there are few tire changers experienced in brake repair. If they are, they should be doing the higher paying brake work. The brake techs and service managers in many cases are more sales oriented than service which could result in another bad brake job depending on the shop. Your best protection for maintaining any part of your vehicle unless you are good at mechanical things yourself is to somehow find a shop you can trust with your life, wife and bank account to maintain your vehicle. Otherwise, constant vigilence and a checking account is all you will have.

Lugnut

Reply to
lugnut
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afaik, steel braided hoses are not dot approved. and steel braided, you DEFINITELY should not pinch since the steel takes a permanent set, unlike the polyester braided ones.

Reply to
jim beam

i am /from/ the rust belt. thanks for checking.

i've said it to you many times dude - stop using that sil-glyde crap. it has a little silicA [thickening agent], not silicONE [hydrocarbon equivalent], with the majority being polypropylene glycol which is entirely water soluble. hence the recurrent rust problems you're having.

use a /real/ silicone brake grease with a siloxane base like this:

Reply to
jim beam

look again - when the piston is fully flush, you have plenty of work room.

i already did. thanks.

[don't use water soluble "sil-glyde" - your calipers are text book on why not to.]

is it that hard to visualize? what i'm describing is the way you can actually do it, the way they do it in factory. works great. and saves a bunch of farting about. you should try it.

the retaining ring that's used on the boot on most calipers. as a guy that regularly tells us how often he rebuilds, i know you've encountered them and could remember what i'm talking about - if you wanted to.

Reply to
jim beam

Whoa. We were talking about brake hoses. Is this something like when you suggested I mix water with brake fluid to rust a nail?

Comparing tires to brake hoses is what's absurd. Pouring water in brake fluid to rust a nail is absurd. I said nothing as absurd as your contentions/suggestions. All I've said is I won't pinch off a brake hose. And you say you do that, and no harm is done, Which you have absolutely no proof for. None, Zip. Nada. My proof is irrefutable - no harm from pinching because I don't pinch. Comparing tires to brake hoses to radiator hoses to fan belts means nothing to me. They're all different. You still haven't answered the question. Why do you pinch a brake hose?

I've never had a brake hose fail. And if one did it wouldn't be because I pinched it. Never saw a need to pinch a brake hose. So why do you pinch a brake hose?

Just more dancing around. And "pinch mode" is unimportant to me, since I don't pinch. I don't care that you pinch brake hoses. I'm only anti-pinch for my brake hoses. Could change that if I saw a need to pinch them. Why do you pinch a brake hose? Just asking. Maybe you know something I don't and I'll learn something.

--Vic

Reply to
Vic Smith

hmm, it appears you're someone with no sense of curiosity or desire to learn. much less examine the physical context of the question.

it's not - from a materials perspective, they're very similar. construction is not dissimilar either.

no it's not. the materials are the same and it illustrates the reactivity at low cost - no expensive brake ruination required.

in as much as anything on usenet is provable...

that's not proof, that's dogma. it has as much logical validity as saying garlic keeps elephants out of your fridge. and you can "prove" it because there are no footprints in the butter.

so it would seem.

because it's a useful and harmless service procedure that saves time, reduces spill and reduces cleanup.

let me guess - you don't get elephants in your fridge either?

that's passive-aggressive contradiction.

based on the above, you don't /want/ to learn anything. if you /did/ want to learn, you'll realize that you've been given all the data and the means by which to prove stuff to yourself already. and your apparent belief that people are out to bullshit you when they're not selling you anything and they have nothing to gain doesn't help.

Reply to
jim beam

jim beam wrote in news:i7ydnYk9UPfotQbQnZ2dnUVZ snipped-for-privacy@speakeasy.net:

And I don't. I suggested Sil-Glyde because whenever I suggest Zip-Slip--which is what I do use myself--people tell it's too hard to find.

It doesn't matter what you use up here. Our winter presents conditions of constant moisture and salt, along with packed slush and violent splash. Ain't no lube that stays in place until spring. None. Zeee-ro.

And those are factory-remanned calipers in those pictures. It takes ten years for them to get looking like that.

The piston goes in only so far as to be flush with the front of the caliper body. There is NO way I'm ever going to get the dust boot in its caliper groove. The dust boot's edge flange is about 1/16" thick and

1/8" wide.

In fact, if you don't get the boot perfectly seated in its caliper groove, the piston will be very difficult to insert, since the dust boot's inboard ring exerts pressure against the piston even when it's properly installed.

I've only ever done it on Hondas and Toyotas, and not one has had any kind of retaining ring.

Reply to
Tegger

jim beam wrote in news:momdnXFfp_QougbQnZ2dnUVZ snipped-for-privacy@speakeasy.net:

Toyota uses (or used) them extensively. They cover the mesh with a skin of rubber, so you only see the mesh if you tear the rubber (don't bother asking me how I know).

Reply to
Tegger

Tegger wrote in news:Xns9EBE8B9AA571Etegger@

208.90.168.18:

I just did some checking, and I think I see the problem here: Your Civics DO have retaining rings for the dust boots. Accords and Integras do NOT have retaining rings.

Accord/Integra calipers retain the dust boot by trapping it in a groove in the caliper body.

I also checked a few Toyota manuals, and Toyota calipers do use a retaining ring. I guess it's been so long I'd forgotten.

Reply to
Tegger

that's much more likely polyester mesh - to conform with dot standards. steel braiding is not allowed for road use because it can fatigue and takes a set if bent to too tight a radius thus restricting the hose core.

Reply to
jim beam

jim beam wrote in news:fNudnV6UsINpSwbQnZ2dnUVZ snipped-for-privacy@speakeasy.net:

This stuff /was/ stainless steel. I saw and felt it with my own eyes.

Reply to
Tegger

Tegger wrote in news:Xns9EBF48DBAC1B7tegger@

208.90.168.18:

Sorry, I saw it with my own EYES and FELT it with my own HANDS.

Reply to
Tegger

Well, Tegger, there are actually a lot of people out there who are not smart enough to do brakes, or much of anything else.

I do not know of anybody who has been killed using shop air to blow out the piston. I was taught this at an EIS brake class, and have held to it.

If you have a bicycle pump, clearly you dont have a large reserve of high pressure air that would be likely to do much damage. If you have a high pressure gas system, you CAN hurt someone.

It is very common to pressure test systems and in my experience you dont do it with gas. You do it with liquids which are not appreciably compressable. That way, if you leak the smallest amount, you see the pressure drop.

I maintain it is the safest way to do things. You do it however you wish.

Reply to
hls

Down here, we dont have need for salt on the roads, and the pistons are not normally a problem. The only place you really have to worry about pitting is on the wall of the piston and wall of the cylinder.

Crocus cloth will not remove deep pitting, for sure. The reason for crocus cloth is simply to polish those two metal faces. It removes extremely little metal, but makes the surfaces less likely to stick, for lack of a better word.

It is much like wire-brushing a bolt and running a tap through the threads before torqueing.

There is absolutely no reason to replace most pistons here where road corrosion damage is nil.

Do it if you like. I was taught NOT to do this, and still believe that it is not a good procedure. I wouldnt let my son do it and wouldnt teach anyone else either. Poor safety practice is just bad business.

Reply to
hls

how thick is the chrome plating on a brake piston? what is that relative to the factory piston diameter tolerance?

no. steel being brushed with steel removes flaky surface oxide, not substrate. steel/chrome plate being abraded with silicon carbide cruises straight through that surface and well into the substrate below. once you've removed the chrome, you affect the friction coefficient and the corrosion resistance. bad idea.

if you want to "clean" a piston, use a wire brush, not abrasive.

Reply to
jim beam

i'll wander on over to the toyota section next time i'm in a junkyard and see what i can find. what year/model was it?

Reply to
jim beam

jim beam wrote in news:2qOdnTHmRMR4VQHQnZ2dnUVZ snipped-for-privacy@speakeasy.net:

AFAIK, anything from the late '80s.

Reply to
Tegger

Reply to
automanno1

i think the end result is it can only be a caliper problem,the piston ,the slides -----put new calipers on!

Reply to
automanno1

On Thu, 4 Feb 2016 20:10:23 -0800 (PST), snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote as underneath :

If the slides are jammed you can usually free them and reassemble with hi temp lubricant (copper grease) probably small rubber gaiters have aged letting moisture into the slides..

Reply to
Charlie+

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