oxidation removal

If it's already oxidized you will need to use a power buffer to bring the shine back. Takes a special touch to keep from burning through the paint though. Another option, which I've seen used by some used car dealers, is to wash the car with lots of water and some Bon Ami on a sponge. It actually works fairly well, although it does kid of play hell with the paint when you look up close; if you're not concerned about aesthetics and just want to have it look good from 20 feet that's a viable option. I've done it to old beaters before when I just want to make them look less embarassing, I'm sure the purists will jump on me for that but it's quick and easy and does make a difference.

nate

Assuming you wish to do this yourself and not pay a restoration shop to "color Sand" and buff out the paint I would start with the Joy dishwasher soap then go to a clay bar and hand rub the surface using more joy as a lubricant... Maybe a little time consumming but definately not an elbow breaker... (Mcguiars does make a clay bar btw) ..

Not going to get into which wax to use after you have removed the oxidation I personally like Zaino's or Fisish First...and have a few spare galloms of Mcguaires 26 in the shop also... The Clay bar will do its thing to remove the ozidation...After that just keep a coat of whatever wax "you" like on the car ...

Bob Griffiths

Hi, Jereme. Know you said you were gonna do it yourself. Assuming you were planning to use elbow grease inclines my thinking towards your not being experienced with a buffer. If you can find some other job, which you are pretty good at, I'd suggest earning whatever $ you can doing that task to offset the price charged by letting a pro shop wet-sand, buff, compound, and wax your car. From then on, you can keep it looking sharp using a good brand of wax you like. Really think you will be happier in the long run. BTW, you were absolutely correct when assuming maroon may be one of the tougher colors to work with. I've done body work as well as detail work--saved many a paint job--but it takes lots of practice & experience to handle a buffer. (Too lightly buffed=swirls & streaks & a mess; too heavy for a mere second = burn marks.) And the procedure I described above can make your car appear as a new paint job for much less than the paint-price. Overall, you'd be better pleased. Some jobs just can't be taken from the pro's. HTH & good luck. sdlomi

Funny you should mention that. I just did exactly what you describe to my '62 Daytona this past weekend, and sho'nuff just as I was starting to think "hey, this is actually working! I can do this!" I leaned a little too hard with the foam pad and polish and left a nice little burn right below the vent window on the passenger side door.

Fortunately, the guy that sprayed the car for me apparently wasn't lying when he said he laid on over a gallon of clear. I managed to sand the burn out (after sanding the panel once already!) re-rub and re-polish the panel without hitting color. And it's still got a yards-deep shine! Remind me to be very very nice to him. It's almost enough to make me overlook the blue dirt in the clear of the (orangey-red) hood. Ummm... yeah, almost.

Yes, before you ask, I did wait about 4 months before doing this. I wasn't getting antsy, I just pushed too hard.

nate