Pilot bushing removal and replacement

I have a V6 Chevy Astro with 5-speed manual transmission, and for more than half a year, I've been trying to get the clutch pilot bushing out. I tried all the suggestions that I could find previously posted here, and finally I came up with my own method that worked.

Suggestions that didn't work (you can skip this part)

  1. Hacksaw through it - nope, takes too long. I don't have that much time to work on it.
  2. Shove grease or wet toilet paper behind, get something round that just fits the hole, and hammer in - supposedly works "every time," according to some of those who have tried it. But it didn't work for me. Stuck too tight or something. I first tried grease, with a socket that almost fit the hole, with electrical tape wrapped around the socket to make it fit better. The next time, I tried wet toilet paper, with a bolt that we filed down to fit very snugly in the bushing, and hammered hard enough so that the small bits of toilet paper shot out around the bolt fast enough to make my hand hurt when they hit the rubber glove I was wearing. The bushing moved about 1/64 of an inch maybe, but then it stopped and wouldn't go further (probably water creating surface tension around it).
  3. Use a blowtorch and melt the bushing. - No, I didn't try this. Whoever suggested it before did so mostly in jest, and besides, I don't have a blowtorch.
  4. Use the proper tool (GM tool number J-1448) - Unfortunately, this tool seems to be impossible to find. The local GM dealer doesn't have one. I did find a puller tool at Autozone, that attaches to a slide hammer, but I broke the tool instead of moving the bearing.

My method that worked

So, after failing on all of these things, I finally decided to drill through the bearing. I don't know why this wasn't ever suggested by anyone I talked to or read newsgroup posts from. Maybe because of the danger of drilling into the crankshaft instead of the bushing, but I was careful, and I only made two tiny nicks in the steel, which were small enough to sand down in a few seconds with some sandpaper. I drilled a small, shallow (the shallower, the better) pilot hole a tiny bit closer to the steel crankshaft than to the inner edge of the brass bushing. Then I chose a drill bit just large enough to leave as little brass as possible on the outer edge of the bushing, without getting into the steel crankshaft. I did this four times, on the top, bottom, left, and right of the center. Then I took a hammer and screwdriver and hammered through the brass from the inner part where the transmission shaft would go, into the holes I had drilled. Then I placed the screwdriver against the outer edge of one of the sectors, and hammered toward the center. Bending that sector in and out a few times broke it loose. The other 3/4 of the bearing were still stuck, but they all came loose at once when I started hammering on the second sector.

This was a happy ending to months of frustration. I was getting ready to walk into an automotive shop with $200 cash in my hand, and offer it to the first person who could remove that bearing. But this way was a lot cheaper, and probably worked better, too.

Now, what's this I hear about a small peice of grease-soaked felt that's supposed to be installed behind the new bushing? Is that required for my van? What kind of grease should be used?

-Daniel Narvaes

Reply to
Daniel Narvaes
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Well done, Dan. The grease and hydraulic pressure always has worked for me, but I obviously have never been up against a pilot bushing like yours. Good information to remember, this.

Garrett Fulton

Reply to
Garrett Fulton

Glad you finally got it out but, if I had seen it move a bit with the grease trick, I would have been greatly encouraged and gone for a bigger hammer and more room to swing the sicker! Get the leather gloves and eye protection for sure!

Reply to
lugnut

Not to be insulting but...........

I would ask if the poster if :

1)The cavity was PACKED FULL of grease - thicker the better ? 2) He used a SOCKET vs SOLID DOWEL. I asume he used the BACK of the socket to push on the grease. What was plugging the 3/8 hole on the socket if the electric tape was on the side of the socket for a secure fit ? An EXTENSION ?

If he used the broached face / open end of the socket, the grease would simply have filled the cavity of the socket vs pushing on the grease.

The grease and dowel method usually works.

At least the job is done.

Reply to
Conase

Geese man, the last one that was giving me trouble I just took to a crank shop and the gent popped it out in 30 seconds for me at no charge.

My Jeep has a GM flywheel and my book says to soak the felt wick in engine oil.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Daniel Narvaes wrote:

Reply to
Mike Romain
[posted and mailed]

snipped-for-privacy@aol.com.mado (Conase) wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@mb-m13.aol.com:

Yes, the cavity was packed completely full. I didn't know it had to be thick. Maybe I should have tried thicker grease. Everyone I talked to said any grease would work. I used wheel bearing grease.

I never did find anything that fit exactly. Eventually I managed to file down the head of a carraige bolt to the right size. I tried a socket first because it was previously suggested on this newsgroup.

I used the open end of the socket, after filling it with grease also. Yes, there was an extension plugging the hole, but it also had a layer of electrical tape to plug the space between the socket and extension. The only reason I tried this was because I hadn't yet managed to find a method that worked to cut my carraige bolt head down to the right size, and hadn't found anything else that fit in the hole. After a couple of times hitting it, I hit my thumb, so I gave up, figuring that this method wouldn't work anyway.

Maybe it would have worked if I had more faith in it, or more space in which to work. The van is just setting on top of 8 inch concrete blocks, giving a total ground clearance of about 16 inches.

-Daniel

Reply to
Daniel Narvaes

Mike Romain wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@sympatico.ca:

Well, moving the van would have been difficult since the back of the engine is being supported by a jack stand because the transmission isn't there to support it. Also then I would never get the driveshaft back in in exactly the same position, but maybe that doesn't matter.

Any peice of felt will do? It didn't have one before. I guess I can get some at Hobby Lobby.

Reply to
Daniel Narvaes

You're very lucky to be able to relate your story to us....

Reply to
Neil Nelson

Your wheel bearing grease should've been thick enough. For exact fit, use an old input shaft from a damaged 5-speed tranny--drive that sucker in behind a grease-packed bushing, and out she comes. ALWAYS been my experience. But, yours may have been more difficult! HTH, and thx for your tip that worked. sdlomi

Reply to
sdlomi

Neil Nelson wrote in news:nonelson- snipped-for-privacy@newssvr26.news.prodigy.com:

Oh, it's not going to fall. Or are you suggesting that the blocks really aren't strong enough?

I wasn't able to get the new bushing all the way in either. Maybe I'm just a wimp, or maybe it's because the exhaust system is in my way, but it still sticks out a little over an eighth of an inch. I'm just going to leave it like that; I think the engine will need to be replaced soon anyway, but hopefully the van will work for about three years more first, so I can graduate from college and save up some money for that.

Should there be a gasket between the engine and the bellhousing? There wasn't one in there before.

Reply to
Daniel Narvaes

I'm not suggesting, I -know- they're not strong enough. I can break a cement block with my bare hands, and it's not a karate or judo trick. A friends father who is/was a mason showed us how way back in high school when we were about to attempt similar foolishness.

Concrete blocks are very easy to break because they are brittle, they are not designed to support a point type load, they are designed to support a load that is spread out over a larger distance where the load is shared amongst a number of blocks.

There is no shortage of incidences of people being crushed and killed doing what you're doing. Jack stands are about $12 a pair. Apparently you don't value your life past $24.

It may work...

No. Why would you think a gasket is necessary, there is no fluid that needs sealing inside the bellhousing?

Reply to
Neil Nelson

I have seen concrete blocks crumble under the weight of a vehicle. All it takes is one 'hot' spot of the frame to make a point dig into the block. They crack real easy when this happens.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
Reply to
Mike Romain

Neil Nelson wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@newssvr26.news.prodigy.com:

Oh, I meant to say a little under an eighth of an inch. I think it will work, because of the way the wear pattern was on the old one.

I thought maybe to keep dirt and oil out.

And I'll remember your advice about the concrete blocks. The van is actually still setting on its tires on them, so the weight is spread out a little bit, but probably not enough to be totally safe, so I'll be careful.

-Daniel

Reply to
Daniel Narvaes
[snip]

Remember, we want you safe, no accidents because of jury rigging a car in the air...

Reply to
Neil Nelson

Concrete blocks will fail all of a sudden, total and catastrophic failure, crushed like a grape. I hope you're not under it at the time. -PapaRick

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Daniel Narvaes wrote:

Reply to
Rick Colombo

Man, I got the heebie-geebies when I read that post...

Reply to
Neil Nelson

I hate to admit, but in my younger days, I put a full size Chrysler station wagon on a pair of cinder blocks (one under each rear brake drum). After just a few minutes (I was standing next to it, but not doing anything with the car) when all of a sudden one cinder block was crushed flat and the car dropped to the ground. I'm not sure if a concrete block would be better or not, but I'm not going to empirically test it (yes, there is a difference between concrete and cinder block).

I tried ramps too, but after over-driving the ramps once and having the car fall off to the side another time, I gave up on ramps.

The moral of the story is to get the right tool for the job. That's when I bought a floor jack and a pair of jack stands. I also toss out old floor jacks when they start dropping (slowly) on their own (even after adding fluid). IOW if/when I feel that they're no longer safe, I toss them. -PapaRick

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Neil Nels> >

Reply to
Rick Colombo

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