Removing crossover pipe

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Sounds like you have a good understanding of getting the bolts out.

The only thing I would add as a sugestion, would be to "knock the hell" out of the head of the bolt a couple times before you go giving it a twist. The technique you've posted is exactly how I take them out. I stick my socket and extension on them, then knock the hell out of the extension a couple times with a 5lb sledge to dislodge the rusted threads a bit. I don't have the luxuary in the shop of the "soak for a few days" bit, but that's only going to help you, not hurt you. Be sure not to overheat the manifold, where as the bolts themselves are weakened by the heat and shear off. Other than that, go with your plan.

as to a repair......... if you're not up to drilling and tapping, there IS a repair clamp but the cost is around $30 to $40 best I remember. I HAVE used them several times in the past, but I found out over the years that it's just a time/cost thing, so now I drill and tap. The clamps resemble a small c-clamp with pointed contacts instead of pads. Call NAPA if it gets to that point.

let us know how it turns out

~:~ Marsh ~:~

If you can get to the other end of the bolts with a wire brush or cut them off it makes them a bit less likely to break off from the rust built up on the threads. Usually you get them loose and after a turn or two the rust jams them and they break. Other than that and what your already planning, it comes down to luck. If they do break Drill/Tap is the better and usually easier solution.

I don't touch bolts like that without a applying a rust penetrant first and have had good results with Kroil.

Thanks for the responses. I wire brushed the exposed threads, soaked them with PB Blaster, then worked them back and forth a bit. Soaked them again and let it sit overnight. Wire brushed again, soaked again, worked back and forth until loose then removed. I think it was the overnight soak that did the trick. Again, many thanks for the responses. NS

Bet you'll use anti-seize when you put it back together! Brass nuts help prevent future issues as well, and if worse comes to worse you can burn them off with a torch.

nate

You bet I used anti-seize. Cleaned up the threads with the wire wheel on the bench grinder, too. No place for nuts on this one as the manifold itself is threaded.

ah, I see...

I probably would have done one of two things... either replaced the bolts with studs, and used the brass nuts, or else taken the bolts to my local boat store and bought some similar sized bolts in stainless. But then again, we're not talking about one of my project cars here...

On the 50-ish year old cars I work on, a bolt like that would have been so "necked" down from corrosion I would have had to replace it anyway, so the stainless idea isn't as frivolous as it sounds. Besides, it's a sheer joy to work on a car that's already been taken apart by someone like me; the bolts practically leap out of their holes as soon as they see a wrench.

nate