Small engine help!

Been working on this engine. Took the carb apart as others have said. Let it soak in mineral spirits and sprayed carb cleaner in passages. Used can air to blow out passages. Had a heck of a time once I put it on to get it to start. It seems that once it warmed up, I was able to get it to finally run without choke after adjusting the carb what seems to be hundreds of times. It helped that I had a battery charge connected to my battery. (Once I disconnect the charger it seems to not want to start).

I have a feeling that after it sits overnight, I wil not be sucessful getting it started when it is dead cold. Also, it ocassionally backfires and once made a loud pop out the exhaust.

I was worried maybe it did not have good compression was the reason for trouble not starting. I did a test. Cranking with the choke closed I got a reading of 50 psi, choke open 45 psi. Is this normal?

When I did take the carb apart the side adjustment needle with the spring I noticed the end was flat. I can turn that screw with it running and it seems to have no effect on the engine. Everything else seemed ok the best I could tell.

Where can I go from here? It is starting to get frustrating.

Here is a short video of when I had it running. DOes everything "look" like it is right?

SO do you think my 31380c rod in place of the 34750 rod was a sucess?

Here is a video of when it was warm and running:

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Reply to
stryped
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There could be several screws that have springs that are adjustable on the carb. There is often a main mixture screw and an idle mixture screw and a adjustable stop screw that controls how far the throttle is open when the motor is at idle. You need to have the controls set so the engine is at idle for the idle mixture adjustments to do anything.

-jim

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Reply to
jim

Double check to make sure your idle jet & main jet are clean.

What are the points gapped at? Are they clean?

What's the spark plug gap? Is it the correct plug?

As for your compression it does sound a bit low, but I'm not sure what the specs are for that motor.

Chas

Reply to
m6onz5a

WTF are you talking about??

A model airplane engine.... A lawn mower engine....

Reply to
HLS

I guess you didn't watch the video.

Reply to
m6onz5a

Snip... Google HH 60 engine. All kinds of help there on carbonator WW

Reply to
WW

I would suggest 50 PSI compression is the main problem. I my experience anything under 100 is borderline. Is this the one that there was a discussion a few days ago regarding a knock while cranking with the side cover off?

chris

Reply to
golden oldie

I guess you didn't watch the video.

********** Nope...Couldnt get it to play.. My computer problem, Im sure
Reply to
HLS

I am now getting 55-60 psi with a fully charged battery. I did nothing to the valves, assuming that they were ok because it ran fine until the rod broke last summer. I guess I need to check valve clearance. I poured some oil down the spark plug hole and it seemed to increase compression about 5-7 or so psi. Does this mean bore is worn? Is there anythign I can do if that is the case other than reboreing? It does not smoke when I can get it to run. Wouldnt it smoke if the bore was the culprit?

One thing, when re-ringing I did not use the expander behind the 2nd compression ring. I did this for two reasons, 1. There were no expanders on the rings I took off the piston when I disassembled it.

  1. I tired to put the expander on and soemthign did not feel right. It was hard to get into the bore even with a ring compressor. Shoudl I try to install this ring?

I did hone out the cylinder with a rigid hone. Maybe I went too far? I was careful and slow with it.

Also, I mixed up the lifters as they fell out before I could figure out which one went with which lifter. They have no itendifiable marking on them.

By the way I did switch direction on that pancake filter and it did not change much.

Last night I fooled with it some more. It seems once I get it running, it will run. But if it dies or I kill it, it takes endless cranking and playing with throttle/choke to get it started, even when warm.

Also, when it died, I tried spray startign fluid in it to restart it. It had no effect on helping it start.

At the end of the night, gas started leakign from somewhere on the carb and disgusted I took of the line and went in for the night.

As far as the compression realease, My manual covers other models that have a contraption on the cam, mine did not have this.

I appreciate your help. This is my first rebuild and I want it to be a sucess but I am tempted to go down to the harbor freight store and buy that 6 horse engine for 160 bucks!

Reply to
stryped

The reason it is hard to start is because it is getting to much fuel - this is known as "flooding". This could be because you have the carb mixture badly adjusted, but more likely the float is the problem. Either the float is out of adjustment or the needle valve is leaking due to dirt or wear. Since you obviously are never going to get the carb working correctly with blind stabs in the dark I would suggest you put a shut off valve in the gas supply line to the carb. When you turn the engine off then also turn the gas off and don't open the valve until you get it running again. The shut off valve should make it possible to keep it from flooding so badly. If the needle is just leaking a little it may not matter while the engine is running.

Adding more fuel doesn't help when the engine is flooded.

-jim

Reply to
jim

I am now getting 55-60 psi with a fully charged battery. I did nothing to the valves, assuming that they were ok because it ran fine until the rod broke last summer. I guess I need to check valve clearance. I poured some oil down the spark plug hole and it seemed to increase compression about 5-7 or so psi. Does this mean bore is worn? Is there anythign I can do if that is the case other than reboreing? It does not smoke when I can get it to run. Wouldnt it smoke if the bore was the culprit?

One thing, when re-ringing I did not use the expander behind the 2nd compression ring. I did this for two reasons, 1. There were no expanders on the rings I took off the piston when I disassembled it.

  1. I tired to put the expander on and soemthign did not feel right. It was hard to get into the bore even with a ring compressor. Shoudl I try to install this ring?

I did hone out the cylinder with a rigid hone. Maybe I went too far? I was careful and slow with it.

Also, I mixed up the lifters as they fell out before I could figure out which one went with which lifter. They have no itendifiable marking on them.

By the way I did switch direction on that pancake filter and it did not change much.

Last night I fooled with it some more. It seems once I get it running, it will run. But if it dies or I kill it, it takes endless cranking and playing with throttle/choke to get it started, even when warm.

Also, when it died, I tried spray startign fluid in it to restart it. It had no effect on helping it start.

At the end of the night, gas started leakign from somewhere on the carb and disgusted I took of the line and went in for the night.

As far as the compression realease, My manual covers other models that have a contraption on the cam, mine did not have this.

I appreciate your help. This is my first rebuild and I want it to be a sucess but I am tempted to go down to the harbor freight store and buy that 6 horse engine for 160 bucks!

Hello:

Did you set the cam timing, with the mark on the crank and on the cam gear?.

Just a thought.

RK

Reply to
Refinish King

.

I still think that the low compression is the problem. Could be caused by valve timing being wrong, valve clearance too tight, wrong connecting rod (possibly too short), too much piston to cylinder clearance. Does it start better after you put oil in the cylinder? That as you have said, increases the compression a bit.

Chris

Reply to
golden oldie

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