TPMS for 2011 Chevy Aveo LT

My owner's manual does NOT tell me how to reset the TPMS after tire rotation. It simply says take to dealership.

I did internet search and found this: does it sound right? A Bartech tool to do this costs well in excess of $1 thousand. =============================================== The TPMS matching process is outlined below: Set the parking brake. Turn the ignition switch to ON/RUN with the engine off. Press and hold the Remote Keyless Entry (RKE) transmitter's LOCK and UNLOCK buttons, at the same time, for about five seconds to start the TPMS learn mode. The horn sounds twice indicating the TPMS receiver is ready and in learn mode. Start with the driver side front tire. The driver side front turn signal also comes on to indicate that corner's sensor is ready to be learned. Remove the valve cap from the tire's valve stem. Activate the TPMS sensor by increasing or decreasing the tire's air pressure for about eight seconds. The horn chirp, can take up to 30 seconds to sound. It chirps one time and then all the turn signals flash one time to confirm the sensor identification code has been matched to the tire/wheel position. The passenger side front turn signal comes on to indicate that corner sensor is ready to be learned. Proceed to the passenger side front tire and repeat the procedure in Step 5. The passenger side rear turn signal comes on to indicate that corner sensor is ready to be learned. Proceed to the passenger side rear tire and repeat the procedure in Step 5. The driver side rear turn signal comes on to indicate that corner sensor is ready to be learned. Proceed to the driver side rear tire, and repeat the procedure in Step 5. After hearing the single horn chirp for the driver side rear tire, two additional horn chirps sound to indicate the tire learning process is done. Turn the ignition switch to LOCK/OFF. If no tires are learned after entering the TPMS learn mode, or if communication with the receiver stops, or if the time limit has expired, turn the ignition switch to LOCK/OFF and start over beginning with Step 2. Set all four tires to the recommended air pressure level as indicated on the Tire and Loading Information label. Put the valve caps back on the valve stems.

Lg

Reply to
Nicholas
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why are you even contemplating tire rotation in the first place? this is not a rhetorical question.

tire rotation is an anachronism dating back to bias ply tires - and this vehicle is not fitted with bias ply tires. not only is rotation impossible or specifically recommended against on many high end vehicles where actual tire performance is important, it masks, not cures poor alignment. and it can /increase/ an individual tire's wear rate.

tires wear to rotation and station on the car. to move them from that position means you no longer have the same amount of actual rubber on the road [the individual block surface contact area decreases] and thus you can end up with inferior handling, or worse, inferior emergency braking. if you think you need to rotate because a tire is wearing unevenly, you need to get the vehicle's alignment fixed. if you think you need to rotate because you haven't bothered to learn the facts as to why you shouldn't, take the time to reeducate yourself and forget the last 50 years of unthinking dogma that belongs with the era of non-detergent motor oil and steering wheel ignition timing adjusters.

Reply to
jim beam

Tire Rotation Tires should be rotated every

12 000 km (7,500 miles). See Scheduled Maintenance on page 11.2. The purpose of a regular tire rotation is to achieve a uniform wear for all tires on the vehicle. This will ensure that your vehicle continues to perform most like it did when the tires were new. Any time you notice unusual wear, rotate your tires as soon as possible and check wheel alignment. Also check for damaged tires or wheels. See When It Is Time for New Tires on page 10.55 and Wheel Replacement on page 10.60 for more information.
Reply to
Nicholas

ask yourself why they say this. other than doubling the costs of tire purchase at any time, there is no technical advantage to having 4 bald tires all that the same time - it is actually more dangerous.

legal translation: "this will protect our ass from your widow's lawyers by hiding behind 'industry standard' tradition if you lose control of the vehicle and die due to known inferior braking and/or cornering traction."

fact: brand new tires don't have as much grip as tires that have worn in to their position.

fact: if you have tires with rotation direction, and/or different sizes per axle, you /cannot/ rotate.

do not lose sight of the facts when witnessing legal ass-covering.

implied legal corollary: "...thereby ensuring that our ass is covered against class actions while we imply that you failed to maintain the vehicle correctly - because we know from experience that most customers never notice they have an alignment issue if they rotate".

no duh.

you can do what you want - cover their ass or cover yours. but if you want maximum safety for yourself, as opposed to maximum safety for the manufacturer's legal department, you will /not/ rotate, and you will instead spend the money ensuring your vehicle's alignment is properly maintained.

Reply to
jim beam

Every car I have ever had had greater wear on the edges of the front tires than either the middle of the tires or the rear tires. The wear is due to cornering. In order to not have to buy new front tires every 10k miles I rotate them. Rotation definition = front to back, back to front, not side to side.

Reply to
Paul in Houston TX

so you might think at first glance, but this wear doesn't happen on wishbone suspension vehicles that are correctly aligned. [and if you think about it, given that the vast majority of a tire's life is spent in the straight-ahead position, not cornering, it's what you'd expect.] what you're actually witnessing is the lack of camber control that's a fundamental "feature" of macpherson suspension.

if rotation didn't accelerate wear for the reasons previously explained, rotation would then simply average the wear rate over all the tires. neither are logical reasons to do it.

Reply to
jim beam

No, it's just poor suspension design. My VWs and Porsches didn't do that. Every FWD Chevy I've looked at closely does, however - some of them very badly.

nate

Reply to
Nate Nagel

My PT Cruiser doesn't do it but the 93 Corsica I had would wear the edges off like no tomorrow no matter how perfect the alignment was.

Reply to
Ashton Crusher

while it is possible to set macpherson up so it doesn't wear in the straight-ahead position, it's hard to do because the minute you change loading outside of whatever its design spec was [some 90lb small person?], the camber is off. the cheap stuff you're talking about doesn't even try to get it right, it's just there to get the vehicle off the showroom floor as cheaply as possible, then relies on tire rotation to mask the problems until it's out of warranty.

you could attempt to fudge it by deliberately putting the toe "out of spec" [toe out] to compensate, but it's a crap shoot, and you'll likely continue to wear tires until you get it right. but you'll still prolong life more than setting it per factory. [adjustable camber helps too.]

Reply to
jim beam

I believe remnants of that design live on in the current Impala, and it too is a ridiculous tire eater. Handles like a pig too.

nate

Reply to
Nate Nagel

It would be nice if someone actually answered the question? Nicholas did you try this?

Reply to
bernie.miller

I can't say if it works or doesn't on that particular vehicle, but that is a familiar TPMS relearn procedure for many GM cars.

nate

Reply to
N8N

Unfortunately this does not work on my 2011 Aveo. I press the lock/unlock and nothing.

Reply to
sanddollar4

My dealer want $12.50 to reset it. Maybe when I go in for something else I'll let them do it but for now I'll live with the stupid light on.

Reply to
sanddollar4

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