Trailblazer tie rod end removal problem

If it jams, force it. Google- tie rod fork. -----

- gpsman

Sorry, if my description was unclear. It came off the knuckle OK. The problem is at the other end, where it threads into the adjuster sleeve.

I looked a bit in the TB forum, and they have some info. Generally, no problems with frozen threads, but saw one that gave some problem before letting loose. Didn't look hard, but you can. Generally, they come out with PB and some force. Anyway, I called my son, who's a front here pro. Here's what he said. Put the end back in the knuckle and put the nut back on tight enough to hold it firm. Make sure the jam nut is loose, then try to turn the sleeve - he said vice-grips - a pipe wrench can bend it. Some aftermarkets could have a jam nut on the inner, so watch for that. If it won't come loose, heat on the sleeve. If that doesn't work, you'll have to cut it out and replace the inner too. He doesn't do a lot of them, but aligned one last week with no issues. Says it's a "different" setup than most, and that the outer end goes into the inner end. Similar to some Jags, Hondas, and some Fords. All I can say. Never dealt with that style.

Is it the kind of sleeve that's split so there is an opening lengthwise? I've been able to turn them by putting a screwdriver in that opening and levering on it. That both puts turning force on it AND opening force because of the split. If it's not split then ignore this.

No, it's solid. First time I've seen one like that. I guess it's a truck thing.

Acetylene torch frees up just about anything.

Not a truck thing, just fewer parts and cheaper to build.

If you still haven't got it loose you could try the old two hammer routine. Put a large hammer on one side and give the opposite side a hit with a similar sized hammer. The shock wave through the part might break it free. The same process can be used on the joint ends to free them from the knuckles as well. The hit from each side tries to compress the metal, the threads act like small wedges and try to spread the threads. This usually breaks any bond they have UNLESS they have thread locker, as that will flex just enough to stay attached. the same thing usually works on the joint end as well, the impact frees the tapered section in the same manner.

unless it's prohibitively expensive, buy a new sleeve and use a pipe wrench to remove both the outer and the sleeve from the inner tie rod end. Before you do, though, measure the distance between the pins and/or count the threads showing at each TRE so you can get your new assembly set at approximately the same distance as the old, so you're not too horribly out of alignment (read: unsafe) driving to the alignment shop after you're done.

Alternately, they make a tool to hold the sleeve (although many shops use a pipe wrench, but that drives me apeshit) that looks like a pin spanner

You say "jam nuts" though - is this not the typical split sleeve with a pinch clamp on each end? That is, it's an internally threaded tube with jam nuts threaded on the TRE before installation, similar to a race/off road aftermarket TRE? In that case, the tool I suggest above won't work; but also you might get away by using a pipe wrench with only cosmetic damage, but YMMV yadda yadda yadda (and if it looks compromised, don't use it!)

nate

Your description was fine; I understood exactly what your issue was.

The problem is that gpsman is an idiot. And accuses others of having poor reading comprehension, although he clearly failed to read your post completely and accurately. My advice is to not apologize to him but killfile him and move on.

nate

...said the functional illiterate trying to identify with a new potential playmate - the only person on this group who isn't yet sick of your s*it.

quite the opposite, poseur boy - if anyone around here should be kill-filed, it's you. globally.

translation: "i don't know what the F*CK i'm talking about."

heat above ~250°C will release common blue and red loctite so i wouldn't worry about that.

rust however, the sweaty hand variety that is not uncommon on parts that have already been replaced as you say, will require a lot more.

more heat, more leverage.

indeed.

a little heat takes care of any thread lock.

Mea culpa. That should have read "attempting to impersonate"...

My favorite line in his Xterra post is, "Please tell me that these are automatic hubs...". ------

- gpsman

Looks like GM couldn't be bothered to some hex flats on the tie rod end.

From the point you are at, what I would do is put the tie rod end back into the knuckle and just snug down the nut. This will keep it from flopping around and make it easier to bust it loose. With the end out of the knuckle flopping around it's just making it more difficult. It's a ball joint so it will make that first couple degrees of rotation to break loose while attached to the knuckle. The idea here is just to get it stable and easier to work with.

Put a good long wrench on the big hex of the part that remains on the car, on the rack. See (step 2) of the link for photo. Loosen the lock/jam nut all the way so it runs up against the unthreaded tie rod end casting. Where it can't turn out any further. Now it should want to turn the tie rod end with it. Put a long fixed wrench on this nut. Get the two wrenches just a few degrees apart so you can squeeze them together so the tie rod end loosens.

An alternative is wedge the first wrench and the writer in the thread cited says it can be done and then just put as much force as it takes to break the tie rod end loose on the other wrench (without causing damage of course).

If it is stuck so bad that the nut starts threading the casting of the tie rod end then you'll need something to grip the casting instead.

Once the tie rod end has broken free and turns, remove it from the knuckle and spin it out completely.

here's another little nugget of nate arguing with people trying to put him out of his misery on how to use a dumb phone:

not as good as your trunk organizer post though.