transmission fluid change

I doubt you'll be able to find Dex 3 anymore, I think they're up to V now. Supposedly it's all backwards compatible.

nate

I don't think Chubbys had them. Borg-Warners did, at least back in the 60s.

nate

Doubtful. Years ago, before most tranny shops put in rebuilt torque converters when they rebuilt the tranny, they would flush the torque converters out with a special machine. On a GM torque converter, you would actually drill into the torque converter, tap the hole with some threads and put in a plug before the torque converter flush was done. If this has been done, that would be why it would have a drain plug. Most GM products gave up on the plug long before 1976. A lot of RWD Ford cars had a drain plug until the mid-90s, but not GM.

If this car were mine, I'd put in the "formerly called Dexron III" generic fluid from Wal-Mart, along with a new filter. A flush would work, too if the right flush machine was used.

Yes - thanks. I think I will do exactly that. I think the best bet is to stick with what is in there now after seeing what folks have to say about it.

Meh... I'd be dubious. Wait for an informed opinion, but if nobody is enforcing the standards for Dex3 anymore, they can put used motor oil in the bottle and call it Dex3. I *KNOW* that this is true for "Type A" - NEVER use any new fluid marked Type A, even if that's what your owner's manual calls for - use Dexron, or if you like hard shifts, Type F. Not sure if anyone's ensuring spec compliance for obsolete versions of Dexron.

nate

Have a look at it and decide. If it's brownish, but doesn't smell too burnt, then a drain and fill and a check after a couple thousand miles.

If it really smells burnt, or is brackish, more agressive measures are required. A drain and fill, followed by another after 1,500 miles would be more in order, until the fluid is a clear red or at least a brownish red.

I would not purposely buy synthetic for your situation. I had a small leak in a power steering system and drained the old fluid out and put synthetic in and wound up with a large leak. Synthetic will find any marginal seals and leak past them and/or clean out packed in gunk creating a leak.

One other maybe dumb question before I tackle this.

When they talk of cycling thru the gears - do they actually mean the wheels must be rotating (ie car off the ramps or rear wheels in the air), or do they simply mean with foot on the brake put it in 1-3 and reverse & park?

Makes no difference. Probably easier on the bands to keep your foot on the brake.

nate

Just thought I would report in since people here were good enough to lend a hand - thanks!

I went ahead and just drained and changed the fluid, gasket, and the filter in the transmission. I had forgotten that a fair bit of fluid was exchanged when I put the recored radiator and new rad support in a few weeks back. I replaced it all with Dexron III.

The stuff that was in there was a brownish-red color and sort of cloudy. It did not smell of burning though. The filter was relatively clean with only a few bits of debris and no metal filings or anything of that nature at all.

I need to get another bolt just a tad longer as one is not making proper purchase over some of the things it holds in place and there is a cable with an end disconnected that I have to check and see if it is in the service manual. I think it is some sort of safety interlock mechanism - not sure. Somehow over the years and one of the servicing I had it in for, it seems to have been left off. Once I get that done tomorrow, I can roll her off the ramps and properly check the level and try her out.