Vehicle not moving in neutral

I have a 1999 Ford Ranger (manual transmission) and I am having some issues. As best as I can, here is what is happening...When, and only when, the truck sits parked for more than say 4 days, I get in it to drive it, put in in either first or reverse gear and it seems that the brakes (maybe the differential??) will not release. When it is in neutral and I try to rock the car forward or backward to possible unlock whatever is locked, it does not come loose. Only when I place it in gear, give some gas and release the clutch slowly to apply drive to the tires, the vehicle squats in the appriopriate direction and with more gas, I hear a big thud and it finally releases. After it releases, it drives perfectly fine, long/short trips, the clutch is right on point. I hate having to give it that much gas to release whatever is locking after several days of inactivity as I am afraid that I might break/snap something vital in the transmission/differential/braking system. If there is anyone that might be able to help me with troubleshooting this problem or has had a similiar experience, I would appreciate any inputs before I put more money into the truck than i need too. Thanks in advance.

Josh

Reply to
yell0jaket
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Stuck parking brake?

Reply to
Larry Bud

I am releasing the parking brake lever and it is popping all the way out, if that is what you mean. Could the parking brake be sticking on the drums or discs regardless if the parking brake lever is completely released?

Reply to
yell0jaket

Are you sure the parking is linked to the rear brakes? Often times Ford linked the emergency brake right to the tranny. In either case have you physically looked to see if you need to replace the parking brake? You don't mention how many miles or if you have done anything..... Being a 99, I would think at the least, it needs an adjustment...

Fwed

Reply to
fweddybear

The parking brake is the rear brakes applied by cables.

On dump trucks and models from the '40s and '50s. The OP has a 99 Ranger for Christ's sakes!.

You shouldn't attempt to answer these questions when you haven't a clue.

The parking brake cable adjustment can only loosen with time. What you suggest does not apply to the problem. You shouldn't attempt to answer these questions when you haven't a clue.

Don

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Reply to
Donald Lewis

This is 100% typical of what happens if gear oil from leaking axle seals has contaminated the brake shoes. They get very sticky and sometimes considerable force is required to break them loose from the drum. Its only an obvious problem after the vehicle has sat a while but should be attended to ASAP because in a panic stop your rear brake behavior could be unpredicatable and treacherous.

Don't try to wash the shoes. That's what I used to try 30 years ago but it does not work. Any solvent powerful enough to get the absorbed gear oil out of the linings will attack the resin binders in the lining mix.

Don

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Reply to
Donald Lewis

inspected/replaced if they are leaking onto the drums? As for a temp fix, I suppose I could park the car in first gear instead of using the parking brake, until I can get the work done. As for the axle seals, would replacement costs be unbearable or something I should seriously look into ASAP. Your help is greatly appreciated Don.

Reply to
yell0jaket

inspected/replaced if they are leaking onto the drums? As for a temp fix, I suppose I could park the car in first gear instead of using the parking brake, until I can get the work done. As for the axle seals, would replacement costs be unbearable or something I should seriously look into ASAP. Your help is greatly appreciated Don.

Even if you don't set the parking brake the shoes may still stick. The greater problem is that contaminated shoes mean treacherous braking. You might think everything is OK until you make a hard stop on a rainy day, one rear wheel locks up and the truck spins out a couple of times!

Contrary to what you would expect, a small amount of gear oil soaked into the shoes does not lubricate them but makes them very sticky and grabby. This is actually worse than if they are dripping wet with oil.

What needs to be done:

Remove rear wheels, drums and inspect brakes -- easy. If, indeed, the shoes are contaminated do NOT try to wash them and get by. The brake shoes must be absolutely untouched by gear oil or brake fluid. Of course, if its brake fluid that has contaminated the shoes you need merely replace the wheel cylinders. Most likely, however, it will be oil from the rear end gears. To replace the axle seals you will have to remove the differential cover and remove a pin that holds what's called two "spider gears." Then the axles are pushed inward and two "C-Clips" removed. (Time to get a manual or have someobdy print this for you from AllData or Mitchell. ) Now the axles can be pulled out. Inspect the axles for deep grooving where they ride on the bearings. If the axles are worn they either will have to be replaced -- with the bearings -- or there are special offset "repair" bearings assemblies that relocate the bearing contact to a virgin surface on the axle. It is not easy to remove the bearings without a special attachment on a slide hammer but can be done. It is normal that you can pull the axles in and out slightly but there should be no perceptible play up and down. Replace axle seals, perform rear brake job, reassemble. If you DIY parts might be about $100.00 if you don't need new axles but with new bearings.

To get it done at a shop: about $300 - $500 parts and labor, very roughly speaking. That is WITHOUT replacing the axles. Axles are pricey unless used.

Don

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Reply to
Don

Well Don, I do have somewhat of a clue... but not in your eyes.... i also have a ford vehicle.. a 1990 which the parking brake is linked to the tranny instead of the rear brakes because it has rotors in back and not drum... and it isn't a dump truck.... Although I am not that familiar with 1999 Ford Rangers, I do and still do brake jobs (not for a living)..... I admit I haven't the vast knowledge you may (since you own an automotive shop), but I was merely suggesting to inspect the problem area to actually see why he is having the trouble. From that he may be able to determine what he needs to repair. I assume he also has some kind of knowledge as to how to fix his vehicle because if he didn't, he wouldn't be asking for help. He would just bring it in to a mechanic instead. This is a public forum, so you can dissagree with anyone here. I am sure that not all of your suggestions are the right ones....I truely thought I was helping and not being detremental in this case... sorry if I hurt your feelings...

(clueless) Fwed

Reply to
fweddybear

And it is what model? You have aroused my curiosity. If not a dump (or other heavy duty) truck what kind of Ford truck or car is it? I am familiar with parking brake drums built on the rear of a transmission -- typically with an external friction band. I don't recall having seen such except on very old vehicles or trucks rated over 1 ton -- which leaves out Rangers obviously. There is nothing at all unusual about rear disk brakes where the caliper includes a parking brake mechanism. In other cases there are miniature drum parking brakes at the center of the rear rotors.

I do research my answers when not 100% certain of my memory so that I am at least addressing configurations that actually exist on the particular vehicle.

You did not hurt my feelings but your advice could not have been helpful to the OP. My suggestion is this: If you don't know look it up or let someone who does know reply.

Don

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Reply to
Don

If you had the P-brake on the shoes are probably sticking to the drums. Sitting 4 days a little rust builds up and the brake dust and crud inside the brakes draws some moisture and causes them to hang up a bit as well. Pull the rear tires and drums and clean up the shoes and hardware. Check the drums, shoes and backing plates for wear as well since wear on them could be causing then to hang up as well.

Reply to
Steve W.

This is probably due to the rear brake shoes staying applied by the parking brake cable which is stuck due to rust. The parking brake pedal will release, but rust in the cable housing going to the rear brakes is keeping the cable from moving freely in its housing. Some times a good soaking of the cable with P B Blaster or other penetrating oil ,and working the parking brakes on and off a number of times will free up the cables, but you may have to replace them if you can not get them to work properly. Of course there are other possible causes for the symptom, but this is where I would look first. Post back if you need more help with this problem.

Reply to
Kevin

Yes Don, That is a very good possibility. I didn't even think of that until you mentioned it.

Kevin

Reply to
Kevin

yes, I've had the same thing happen (less often) on my old Studebaker when it sits for a while. I think the shoes physically stick to the drums a little. Could be more severe if you were using semi- or full metallic shoes.

Another possibility is that the cable is rusted a little and is sticking in its housing, and needs a little nudge to get it to break free and release the shoes. This will only get worse with time if this is the case, so lubing the cable might not be a bad idea.

good luck,

nate

Reply to
N8N

good call, this is another possibility I didn't think of. Certainly worth a look; it's easy enough to pop the drums off (I assume that this has rear drums) and just look around. If it doesn't come off easily, tap it lightly around the edge with a hammer; if it still doesn't come off, don't give in to the temptation to really slam it around, it might be caught on a wear ridge, back off the star wheel a little and try again.

good luck,

nate

D> On 2 Aug 2006 12:06:12 -0700, snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote: >

Reply to
N8N

[snip]

Well, if you are curious, my 1979 Toyota Landcruiser has a driveline brake on the back end of the transfer case. Its a small cable operated drum brake.

My newer Landcruiser and Porsche (both 4 wheel disc) have small parking brake shoes inside the rear wheel hub assembly.

Reply to
Paul Hovnanian P.E.

I've had similar problems in the past on the M5OD trans with 2 sets of needle bearings in the rear of the transmission(somewhere around OD and reverse) seizing to the shaft and locking it in reverse. Have you tried jacking up the truck and spinning the tires while it's locked up? Watch the driveshaft while your rocking the tire. If it moves a little, your problem is more than likely in the transmission. If the tire rocks, but the shaft stays still, it could be a problem in the differential. And obviously, if the tire doesn't move at all, it's brake or axle bearing related.

Reply to
corning_d3

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I just want to thank everyone that has added input to this thread. Many good ideas--and I thought i was the only one having this problem....HA! I will have a look at the brakes myself and axles within a day or so. I will keep everyone up with what I found...till then, the suggestions are great!

yell0

Reply to
yell0jaket

I'm still trying to figure out what kind of 1990 Ford this guy has with a transmission operated parking brake. Could be 1-ton or greater PU. Typically transmission-operated parking brakes are used on HD vehicles.

I'd call 27 years "very old." Well, maybe not so old for a LandCruiser!

Don

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Reply to
Don

Sorry it took me so long to reply .... i went to bed and then got up for work this morning.... just getting home..... its a 90 ford super duty.... so yes it is a truck, but not a dump, although I suppose a dump could be used on it.......it does have the bands around the tranny. My suggestion came when no one had replied (at the time).....although a leaky seal will cause the brakes to stick, it isn't the only thing that can do this. This is why I thought to have him actually inspect the rear brakes.... to see if they were soaked....sometimes one can describe a scenario and mean something else....its happened to me plenty of times.... OK... good advise... I should research more often.... my fault there....but I offered some help when no other help (at the time) was. At least an inspection could have told us more about the situation...

Anyway.. all is good..... he is on the right track (I presume)...

Fwed

Reply to
fweddybear

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