Car is just bought by a kid just learning to drive (he's 16).
2004 Mitsubishi Lancer ES
Neighbors asked me what their options are for getting duplicate fobs.
It came with only one key and one "remote" (see photo above).
(I made a half-dozen keys for the kid so the question is about the remote.)
Anyone know what options there are for getting duplicate remotes?
That's VERY NICE and useful!
Do we have TWO choices as shown here?
Certainly the original
Looks like the second one here...
$105 remote plus programming
Price INCLUDES programming instructions and all required programming tools
for training the vehicle to recognize the remote.
In alt.home.repair, on Thu, 2 Aug 2018 05:36:27 -0000 (UTC), Arlen
You don't have to spend anywhere near this for most cars. I
programmed fobs for Chrysler and Toyota last summer, and each fob was
about $10. Insturctions are online for free.
You don't need a number off the back. Go to an ebay page (or maybe it
was Amazon) and find someone who sells fobs and put in the year, make,
adn model of the car and it will tell you if he has the fob to fit it.
I got keys the same way, for even less money.
And it's not just those two makes. Just about all of them
Thanks for this input, where I've been concentrating on the oxygen sensor
thread (for obvious reasons of triage) but where this information is
How do they prevent theft?
That is, what proof do you normally give them that it's YOUR car?
NOTE: I'm not trying to steal a car ... I'm just trying to understand the
Most cases require you to bring one of the original fobs to get the new
Dealer may have you listed as the owner and that would suffice.
My boss went to Europe. His wife took his car and locked the keys
inside and the dealer was 50 miles away. I had to give the dealer the
VIN and have a local locksmith vouch for me since he knew the both of us
and did work for the company.
Thanks. I'm not trying to steal a car, but it seems, from Clare's nice
instructions, that all you need to do is buy the fob and get a hold of one
of the other fobs, and you can make keys.
Of course, all the fobs will be no good, so if you did it without the
knowledge of the owner, the owner's own key fobs would stop working.
But, according to what Clare sent, you don't need anything but the fob and
the car and that's it.
I know what you mean because the sister of this kid has a Camry 2005 with
the immobilizer driving her nuts because it goes on constantly.
When I'm done helping with the 2004 Lancer, I may get her some remotes for
her Camry and program them.
In alt.home.repair, on Fri, 3 Aug 2018 08:42:12 -0000 (UTC), Arlen
I havent' seen that thread, but I may have problems with my o2 sensor
also. I forget the codes I have but they both point to the o2 sensor.
Yet I get 30MPH on he highway and 26 in town, and it doesnt' overheat,
so I'm thinking there is no big rush to fix it. It does stumble a bit
when I'm stopped and start up again, unless I"m perfect with the gas
The 02 sensor won't admit oxygen unless you have proof you own the car.
For the key and the fob, online they will sell to anyone. It's sort of
like guns. But you need to have one or 2 fobs to make anotehr and 1 or
2 keys to make another key. I forget which it is but it's 1 for one and
2 for the other. Whatever Clare said.
So if you don't have that, I think you have to go to a locksmith (who is
still probalby cheaper than the dealer, though iirc not every locksmith
can do this.)
My used cars both came with 2 keys and 2 fobs, or more, and because I
knew I'd have trouble making more if I got down to one fob (or key, I
forget) I made a bunch more. I have 4 of each now, I think. Even
though I've only lost one key in 50+ years and that was a house key I
dropped into my car's trunk. I was out of town, getting home late, had
to call a friend and have him leave my house key outside my house.
And another time was tubing and changed clothes and had left the key in
the trunk. Had to ask some poor girl who probalby thought I really
liked her to take me home 10 miles and back to the car. That will
teach her to be talking to me when I see that the key is locked in.
This is the thread...
Advice for stripped threads upstream oxygen sensor exhaust manifold
AFAIK, oxygen sensors generally get replaced when they fail, and that
usually precipitates one of two clues:
a. You get a related oxygen sensor code, or,
b. You can't set a related readiness monitor.
Usually, AFAIK, it's the upstream sensor.
You can test them, but, you can't really test them (it's one of those
things you just replace).
Yeah. What Clare said was
a. Gather all the fobs you can (in this case, that's one).
b. Program the handful you have
c. That negates the ones you don't have
Who knew it was that easy.
Now all I have to do is buy the fobs.
My first concern, since the trunk doesn't open with the key, is to buy the
fob that has a trunk button on it, if that will work and try it out.
I wonder if fobs can be programmed more than once?
In alt.home.repair, on Sat, 4 Aug 2018 01:19:13 -0000 (UTC), Arlen
I was looking for something else and I found this post, from a month
ago, so you probably won't see my answer, and if you do, I probaably
won't see yours. But my email address is good if you remove NONONO.
I too, with a 2005 Toyotal Solara had a problem that it only opened with
the fob or the lever on the floor.
Now I had 2 good fobs, but because it's a convertible, I had to disable
the lever on the floor. I guess the alarm would have gone off if they
climbed over the door or the back and opened the trunk, but the alarm
stops after a short time.
So if I'm out and the fob battery fails, no way to get into the trunk.
So I put in an electric switch, on the dash, that shoud have been there
in the first place. It wasn't that easy. Couuldn't find the wire --
well maybe I could see it but I couldn't reach it -- without removing
the left kickpanel and cutting into two different sheaths, looking for a
white wire. There were two of them so I had to test which one worked.
And I connected a push-button switch to that one and the cig lighter
that is hot when the ignition is on.
I'm really glad I did this.
Thanks Clare as you area always spot on correct.
In this case, the key is just a dumb key (I had it checked at Home Depot)
where the remote just unlocks and locks the doors.
It's the two-button remote as shown in this picture:
The FCC ID is exactly the same, but it doesn't have any related P/N:
If the three-button remote works too, that would be a godsend:
The reason is that the trunk won't open from the outside, as the key
doesn't open it and the fob doesn't have a button for it. The trunk only
opens right now from the inside of the cabin.
I think that's how we will go, thanks to your suggestions!
1. Buy a handful of 3-button remotes
2. Program them
Seems simple enough thanks to you!
(I have no experience with these things.)
Wow Clare ... you are the genius!
If those instructions are legit, it sure seems that we can buy a handful of
remotes and just program them all together at the same time.
Here's my summary of that document:
<2004 Mitsubishi Lancer Keyless Entry Remote Fob Programming Instructions>
"Many people don?t know that they can purchase their own replacement
vehicle entry remote, save up to 70% off of marked up Dealership prices,
and program the replacement remote to their vehicle themselves."
First, verify this is on the back of the remote:
* FCC ID: OUCG8D-525M-A
* Factory Part No.: MR587983
I just looked at the original pictures where the FCC ID matches perfectly,
but that "Factory Part Number" doesn't exist on the current fob (maybe it's
already an aftermarket fob?).
1. Insert key into the Ignition and leave it in the OFF position.
2. JUMP OBDII Ports 1 and 4 with a suitable jumper wire.
3. Within ten (10) seconds, PRESS the Hazard Light Switch six (6) times.
4. The door locks will cycle once indicating entry to Programming Mode.
On the first remote to be programmed...
5. PRESS the LOCK Button three (3) times within ten (10) seconds.
6. Door locks will cycle once indicating successful programming
7. For all other remotes, individually repeat step 5 within one (1) minute.
8. REMOVE the jumper wire connected to the Data Link Port.
9. Programming is now complete.
10. Test all remotes.
Sometimes such things are like an "rm -r *" command, so I hope it's legit,
but if it is, it seems all I have to do for them is figure out if the
missing "Factory Part Number" is critical and where best to buy a handful
of these remotes!
In alt.home.repair, on Fri, 3 Aug 2018 08:56:02 -0000 (UTC), Arlen
It used to be that when you did this, you had to reprogram the keys or
fobs (I forget which) that you already had, which were working, at the
same time you did a new one. (and I was afraid I'd mess them all up.)
but with my 2004 Chrysler and 2005 Toyota, I dont' think that was true.
Just follow the directions to the letter.
It might help to have someone read you the instructions while you do it.
At least for me, on the first couple tries, I can't remember more than
one step at a time, and the time it took for reading even though I
thought I turned the key on and off, or the lock button up and down, the
right number fo times, it took 4 or 5 tries to get it right. but that
was the first one. After that I got much better.
I'm gonna assume those "existing remotes" can be re-programmed on another
There's a reason I ask, which is we're asking the original owner to come up
with more remotes, if he can.
BTW, does anyone know if the three-button remote Clare found can also be
used instead of the two-button remote the kid currently has?
The reason I ask is that, for some reason, the trunk doesn't open with the
one key he has, and, there's no way to open it by hand, so the *only* way
currently to open the trunk is via the lever in the cockpit (since the fob
he has is only a two-button fob).
Seems to me, if the three-button fob works, that this would solve the trunk
LOCATE the Data Link Connector (DLC). It will be located underneath the
dashboard/steering column on the Driver’s side.
IDENTIFY DLC Ports 1 and 4. Notice the metal contacts inside both Ports
1 and 4. (Top row left most pin is pin 1)
INSERT key into the Ignition and leave it in the OFF position.
JUMP Ports 1 and 4 with a suitable jumper wire. Ensure constant contact
between both metal contacts and the jumper wire at all times throughout
Within ten (10) seconds, PRESS the Hazard Light Switch six (6) times.
The door locks will cycle once indicating successful entry into
PRESS the LOCK Button on the first remote to be programmed three (3)
times within ten (10) seconds. The door locks will cycle once
indicating successful programming of that remote.
REPEAT Step 6 for any additional remotes to be programmed within one (1)
REMOVE the jumper wire connected to the Data Link Port.
Test all remotes. Programming is now complete.
On Wednesday, August 1, 2018 at 5:42:18 PM UTC-10, Arlen Holder wrote:
The car probably has an immobilizer system meaning that you need a key fob
with a correctly programmed transreceiver doodad. You may be able to progra
m the transceiver chip yourself or maybe not. I think most cars of that age
had the option to do it yourself. I suspect that most newer cars will not
allow you to do it. I've purchased and programmed remote fobs from eBay for
my 04 Fords and VWs. They work fine and were around 7 bucks each. My 99 VW
has no immobilizer installed. Yay!
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