What options exist for getting duplicate automobile remotes? (was: What options exist for getting duplicate automobile remotes?)

Ebay for the key fob. You will need to research how to program it though.

That's VERY NICE and useful! Do we have TWO choices as shown here?

Certainly the original

Looks like the second one here... $105 remote plus programming PROGRAMMING Price INCLUDES programming instructions and all required programming tools for training the vehicle to recognize the remote.

Do you know which number on the back is the "definitive" number for the correct fob?

- FCC?

- Canada?

- Japanese?

- Omron?

Programming instructions.

LOCATE the Data Link Connector (DLC). It will be located underneath the dashboard/steering column on the Driver?s side.

IDENTIFY DLC Ports 1 and 4. Notice the metal contacts inside both Ports

1 and 4. (Top row left most pin is pin 1)

INSERT key into the Ignition and leave it in the OFF position.

JUMP Ports 1 and 4 with a suitable jumper wire. Ensure constant contact between both metal contacts and the jumper wire at all times throughout this procedure.

Within ten (10) seconds, PRESS the Hazard Light Switch six (6) times. The door locks will cycle once indicating successful entry into Programming Mode.

PRESS the LOCK Button on the first remote to be programmed three (3) times within ten (10) seconds. The door locks will cycle once indicating successful programming of that remote.

REPEAT Step 6 for any additional remotes to be programmed within one (1) minute.

REMOVE the jumper wire connected to the Data Link Port.

Test all remotes. Programming is now complete.

You don't have to spend anywhere near this for most cars. I programmed fobs for Chrysler and Toyota last summer, and each fob was about $10. Insturctions are online for free.

You don't need a number off the back. Go to an ebay page (or maybe it was Amazon) and find someone who sells fobs and put in the year, make, adn model of the car and it will tell you if he has the fob to fit it.

I got keys the same way, for even less money.

And it's not just those two makes. Just about all of them

Thanks for this input, where I've been concentrating on the oxygen sensor thread (for obvious reasons of triage) but where this information is useful.

One question.

How do they prevent theft?

That is, what proof do you normally give them that it's YOUR car?

NOTE: I'm not trying to steal a car ... I'm just trying to understand the process.

Wow Clare ... you are the genius!

If those instructions are legit, it sure seems that we can buy a handful of remotes and just program them all together at the same time.

Here's my summary of that document: "Many people don?t know that they can purchase their own replacement vehicle entry remote, save up to 70% off of marked up Dealership prices, and program the replacement remote to their vehicle themselves."

First, verify this is on the back of the remote:

• FCC ID: OUCG8D-525M-A

• Factory Part No.: MR587983

I just looked at the original pictures where the FCC ID matches perfectly, but that "Factory Part Number" doesn't exist on the current fob (maybe it's already an aftermarket fob?).

1. Insert key into the Ignition and leave it in the OFF position.
2. JUMP OBDII Ports 1 and 4 with a suitable jumper wire.
3. Within ten (10) seconds, PRESS the Hazard Light Switch six (6) times.
4. The door locks will cycle once indicating entry to Programming Mode.

On the first remote to be programmed...

1. PRESS the LOCK Button three (3) times within ten (10) seconds.
2. Door locks will cycle once indicating successful programming
3. For all other remotes, individually repeat step 5 within one (1) minute.
4. REMOVE the jumper wire connected to the Data Link Port.
5. Programming is now complete.
6. Test all remotes.

Sometimes such things are like an "rm -r *" command, so I hope it's legit, but if it is, it seems all I have to do for them is figure out if the missing "Factory Part Number" is critical and where best to buy a handful of these remotes!

Most cases require you to bring one of the original fobs to get the new one programmed. Dealer may have you listed as the owner and that would suffice.

My boss went to Europe. His wife took his car and locked the keys inside and the dealer was 50 miles away. I had to give the dealer the VIN and have a local locksmith vouch for me since he knew the both of us and did work for the company.

Thanks. I'm not trying to steal a car, but it seems, from Clare's nice instructions, that all you need to do is buy the fob and get a hold of one of the other fobs, and you can make keys.

Of course, all the fobs will be no good, so if you did it without the knowledge of the owner, the owner's own key fobs would stop working.

But, according to what Clare sent, you don't need anything but the fob and the car and that's it.

I havent' seen that thread, but I may have problems with my o2 sensor also. I forget the codes I have but they both point to the o2 sensor.

Yet I get 30MPH on he highway and 26 in town, and it doesnt' overheat, so I'm thinking there is no big rush to fix it. It does stumble a bit when I'm stopped and start up again, unless I"m perfect with the gas pedal.

The 02 sensor won't admit oxygen unless you have proof you own the car.

For the key and the fob, online they will sell to anyone. It's sort of like guns. But you need to have one or 2 fobs to make anotehr and 1 or

2 keys to make another key. I forget which it is but it's 1 for one and 2 for the other. Whatever Clare said.

So if you don't have that, I think you have to go to a locksmith (who is still probalby cheaper than the dealer, though iirc not every locksmith can do this.)

My used cars both came with 2 keys and 2 fobs, or more, and because I knew I'd have trouble making more if I got down to one fob (or key, I forget) I made a bunch more. I have 4 of each now, I think. Even though I've only lost one key in 50+ years and that was a house key I dropped into my car's trunk. I was out of town, getting home late, had to call a friend and have him leave my house key outside my house.

And another time was tubing and changed clothes and had left the key in the trunk. Had to ask some poor girl who probalby thought I really liked her to take me home 10 miles and back to the car. That will teach her to be talking to me when I see that the key is locked in.

It used to be that when you did this, you had to reprogram the keys or fobs (I forget which) that you already had, which were working, at the same time you did a new one. (and I was afraid I'd mess them all up.)

but with my 2004 Chrysler and 2005 Toyota, I dont' think that was true.

Just follow the directions to the letter.

It might help to have someone read you the instructions while you do it. At least for me, on the first couple tries, I can't remember more than one step at a time, and the time it took for reading even though I thought I turned the key on and off, or the lock button up and down, the right number fo times, it took 4 or 5 tries to get it right. but that was the first one. After that I got much better.

The car probably has an immobilizer system meaning that you need a key fob with a correctly programmed transreceiver doodad. You may be able to progra m the transceiver chip yourself or maybe not. I think most cars of that age had the option to do it yourself. I suspect that most newer cars will not allow you to do it. I've purchased and programmed remote fobs from eBay for my 04 Fords and VWs. They work fine and were around 7 bucks each. My 99 VW has no immobilizer installed. Yay!

This is the thread... Advice for stripped threads upstream oxygen sensor exhaust manifold

AFAIK, oxygen sensors generally get replaced when they fail, and that usually precipitates one of two clues: a. You get a related oxygen sensor code, or, b. You can't set a related readiness monitor.

Usually, AFAIK, it's the upstream sensor. You can test them, but, you can't really test them (it's one of those things you just replace).

Yeah. What Clare said was a. Gather all the fobs you can (in this case, that's one). b. Program the handful you have c. That negates the ones you don't have

Who knew it was that easy. Now all I have to do is buy the fobs.

My first concern, since the trunk doesn't open with the key, is to buy the fob that has a trunk button on it, if that will work and try it out.

I wonder if fobs can be programmed more than once?

I'm gonna assume those "existing remotes" can be re-programmed on another car?

There's a reason I ask, which is we're asking the original owner to come up with more remotes, if he can.

BTW, does anyone know if the three-button remote Clare found can also be used instead of the two-button remote the kid currently has?

The reason I ask is that, for some reason, the trunk doesn't open with the one key he has, and, there's no way to open it by hand, so the *only* way currently to open the trunk is via the lever in the cockpit (since the fob he has is only a two-button fob).

Seems to me, if the three-button fob works, that this would solve the trunk problem too.

Thanks Clare as you area always spot on correct.

In this case, the key is just a dumb key (I had it checked at Home Depot) where the remote just unlocks and locks the doors.

It's the two-button remote as shown in this picture:

The FCC ID is exactly the same, but it doesn't have any related P/N: If the three-button remote works too, that would be a godsend: The reason is that the trunk won't open from the outside, as the key doesn't open it and the fob doesn't have a button for it. The trunk only opens right now from the inside of the cabin.

I think that's how we will go, thanks to your suggestions!

1. Buy a handful of 3-button remotes
2. Program them

Seems simple enough thanks to you! (I have no experience with these things.)

I know what you mean because the sister of this kid has a Camry 2005 with the immobilizer driving her nuts because it goes on constantly.

When I'm done helping with the 2004 Lancer, I may get her some remotes for her Camry and program them.

My even older bimmer does that.

Yup. These are older cars.

Yup. My bimmer has that per-key "seat memory" too.

I was looking for something else and I found this post, from a month ago, so you probably won't see my answer, and if you do, I probaably won't see yours. But my email address is good if you remove NONONO.

I too, with a 2005 Toyotal Solara had a problem that it only opened with the fob or the lever on the floor.

Now I had 2 good fobs, but because it's a convertible, I had to disable the lever on the floor. I guess the alarm would have gone off if they climbed over the door or the back and opened the trunk, but the alarm stops after a short time.

So if I'm out and the fob battery fails, no way to get into the trunk.

So I put in an electric switch, on the dash, that shoud have been there in the first place. It wasn't that easy. Couuldn't find the wire -- well maybe I could see it but I couldn't reach it -- without removing the left kickpanel and cutting into two different sheaths, looking for a white wire. There were two of them so I had to test which one worked. And I connected a push-button switch to that one and the cig lighter that is hot when the ignition is on.

I'm really glad I did this.