Which oil filters are best?

I have not found any independent tests regarding screw on oil filters. Just from word of mouth I have heard that the NAPA gold or silver, and
the $5 Purolator are the best.
Any thoughts or independent tests on internet you can refer me to?
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J J wrote:

After I got two bad napa filters in a row I started shopping elsewhere. Both leaked at the spot welts on the end of the can. Another brand I avoid is fram. I had a fram PH8A blow up at 80psi on morning a few seconds after engine start. The rubber block gasket blew out.
I've been running super tech filters(the wal-mart store brand) for several years and I've never had a problem. I did at one time take the super tech, STP filters and the bosch filters and compare them for manufacturer markings on the canisters, and found all three to be completely identical with the super tech filter being the cheapest(obviously).
Good luck with it.
Chris
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i hear this type of thing all the time for several different brands. thru the years I have used fram and napa filters for several diffferent types of vehicles. never had a problem with either.
i'm not an apologist for either--besides those i have also used other brands.i have also used delco, stp, cheapo's, expensiver, whatever...never had a problem with any of them...guess i'm lucky.
you're probably gonna wind up hearing all sorts of responses about this brand, not that one...frankly, they way things are these days, it seems quality is generally *just ok* across the board, and mass-manufactured products are prone to defects...
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* wrote:

I have compared Bosch gas filters that way. The 'cheap parts' stores sell them for $12.00 and Volvo sells them for $45.00.
Same part number in the same box.
Same for GE lights. The 'GE' brand ones were double the 'store' brand and when you opened the box, the bulb in both had the same markings exact up to including the 'GE' stamp.
Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id !15147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
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Mike Romain wrote:

Super Tech are made by Champion Labs, they are actually a VERY good filter. The also make the Lee, Deutsch, Champion, STP, Bosch, some AC Delco some Motorcraft some Mopar numbers.
Yes Wix are good as well BUT, NAPA filters are not all WIX the Gold line are WIX the Silver line may or may not be depending on the part number I run Wix or Baldwin.
--
Steve W.


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Mike Romain wrote:

The absolute BEST story like that I heard came from a friend who was working on a BMW 5-series, early 90s vintage. It needed a MAF sensor- something like $400 for the part indicated for a BMW. A bit of research revealed that the same Bosch MAF sensor is used in numerous Ford products. And lists for $40. Same part. Same Bosch P/N. Just a Ford oval engraved on it instead of a BMW roundel. And you know what? The BMW engine doesn't REALLY care about that.
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Many of the older BMW electrical parts are available from VW as well, for a considerable savings. --scott
--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."

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"J J" wrote:
I have not found any independent tests regarding screw-on oil filters.
Any thoughts or independent tests on internet you can refer me to? _________________________________________________________
Here is a link to one person's personal tests a few years ago:
http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html
HTH.
Rodan.
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On Mon, 25 Sep 2006 08:03:24 -0500, Lauren_ snipped-for-privacy@webtv.net (J J) wrote:

Fram filters are crap. Cut one open next to a Wix and I would be very surprised if you did not agree. Under severe service they sometimes collapse and block oil flow. The glued-on cardboard end caps are less than impressive as is the piece of string that bundles the media. BTW -- Pennzoil is Fram. I use Wix in my circle-track car. My buddy used to use Fram until he lost oil pressure and found the inside of the filter ruptured and blocking 99% of the oil flow. Fortunately the 1% saved the engine from immediate death and he was back on the track with oil pressure after putting a different filter on. I had tried to tell him about Fram -- not the first time I have heard about this.
Cut some open and see for yourself.
Don www.donsautomotive.com
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On Mon, 25 Sep 2006 22:34:42 -0500, Don

Can you describe this collapse? What moves and in which direction?

Why do you feel the non-metal end caps are a problem and what do you believe the purpose of the string is?

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Ashton Crusher wrote:
Cut one open next to a Wix and I would be very

I won't speak for Don (even though he's a fellw South Austinite) :-) but I can describe the Fram failure I've had.
As you know, the oil in an oil filter flows into the filter via the outer ring of holes in the baseplate, then flows inward to the center of the filter through the cylinder of corrugated filter media, then out the center pipe to the engine. When I have had Fram filters that caused a sudden drop in oil pressure, what had happened is that the end-cap farthest from the filter based had broken loose from the cylindrical corrugated media, the media had then caved inward toward the center of the filter, ultimately folding downward toward the base of the filter and collapsing across the outlet hole in the center of the baseplate, drastically reducing the oil flow (and of course dumping lots of previously captured grit and dirt right into the engine's oiling system- fortunately it was a Chrysler 318 and nothing can kill it, not even a Fram.
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Yep the proof is in the pudding.. Fram sucks. It's all marketing.
Chas
Don wrote:

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J J wrote:

First of all, don't rely on reviews that include no real testing but instead only take filters apart to show the insides. They're not tests but merely beauty contests.
I know of only 2 independent tests, this one done 11 years ago by a Finnish auto magazine:
www.mr2.com/TEXT/oil_filter_test.html
and a Consumer Reports review published in their 2/1987 issue, with a follow up a few months later.
Purolator and Champion Labs make many brands of filters. Purolator seems to make them all to the same standard, but with Champion Labs the quality varies according to the customer's requirements and willingness to pay.
If you want a better filter, try Fram Toughguard, Mobil 1, or Purolator Pure One. These are made primarily of synthetic fiber rather than cellulose and are claimed to remove at least 96-98% of the 20-micron particles in a single pass test, compared to 70-94% for most conventional filters.
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do_not_spam snipped-for-privacy@my-deja.com wrote:
I know of only 2 independent tests, this one done 11 years ago by a Finnish auto magazine:
www.mr2.com/TEXT/oil_filter_test.html
and a Consumer Reports review published in their 2/1987 issue, with a follow up a few months later.
While obsolete by almost 20 years, below are the CR results. The first score is for single-pass fitration efficiency for 20u particles (A 88%+ removed, B = 72-88%, C = 60-72%, D = less than 60% removed), the second score for dirt capacity when the oil pressure drop across the filter reached 80% of the allowed maximum.
Fram:
PH25 A/B PH30 A/B PH43 A/B PH46 A/C PH8A A/B PH3387A A/B PH2870A A/B
Lee:
LF24 C/A LF25 B/B LF16 C/B LF42 A/B LF1 B/B LF1HP A/B LF40 B/B LF17HP B/B LF213HP B/C
AC:
PF24 C/B PF25 C/A PF34 C/B PF20 C/C PF47 B/B (British made: B/A) X21 D/A
Kmart:
K5 C/B K3 C/C K9 C/C K29 C/C K1 C/B K11 C/B K26 C/B
Motorcraft:
FL9 C/A FL10 C/B FL300 C/A FL13B B/B FL1A C/A FL321 C/B FL268 C/B FL401 C/B
Purolator:
PER33 B/B PER49 C/B PER51 C/C FC064 C/B PER1A C/B PER111 C/B FC01 B/B FC0252 C/C
Sears
45172 C/B 45173 D/B 45176 C/B 45202 B/A 45170 C/B 45191 B/A 45177 B/B 45194 B/A 45197 B/A
Hastings: D/? (less than 50% removed, worst efficiency of all tested).
Mopar 3549-957 B/B
Toyota 15601-44011 B/B
Nissan 15208-H8916 D/B
2 months later, CR finished testing Lee Maxifilters and rated them equal to the Frams. The Frams tested were orange "Wear Guard," while currently available orange Frams are "Extra Guard" and claimed by Fram to be better.
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Although maybe dated, at least this is data. Anything could have happened in the intervening years,BUT real numerical data is far preferable to the 'cut them open and hypothesize' group.
wrote:

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Of course not. But neither would I base oil filter purchases on vague observations and prejudice.
NOBODY has published any oil filter data in the recent years which is worth a tinker's damn.
Fram looks bad...so what? Only a relatively few companies make filters in the USA.
Hard cold specifications have not been set by the manufacturers. If they had, then this debate would not be ongoing.
You dont really know whether Wix is better than Fram, or whether Mobil1 is better than toilet paper.
You have your ideas, your preferences, your prejudices, but you have very little hard fact.
SHOW ME THE FACTS! (and with all due respect, I dont think that you have them. I know I dont have them.)
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hls wrote:

THE FACTS ARE THAT CAR MANUFACTURERS SPEND A LOT OF TIME AND MONEY DESIGINING AND DEVELOPING COMPONENTS FOR THE CARS THEY SELL. ON THAT BASIS ALONE I WOULD PUT MUCH MORE TRUST IN THE PRODUCT DESIGNED UNDER THOSE CIRCUMSTANCES THAN SOMETHING FROM THE LOCAL DISCOUNT AUTO PARTS STORE OR FLY-BY-NIGHT WEB-BASED SELLER.
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John S. wrote:

Pistons, yes. Blocks, yes. Intake manifolds, yes. Transmissions, yes (if they don't decide to buy a Borg-Warner or a Getrag gearset). But not alternators, starters, power steering pumps, and DEFINITELY NOT OIL FILTERS. They pick a design that fits and meets minimum performance criteria. In SOME cases they'll put out a spec for a new design to industry and await responses, then pick a vendor.
But WHEN was the last time a new oil filter form-factor, let alone a filter with new FUNCTIONAL characteristics appeared on the market? Hell, half the vehicles on the road can still use the good old Wix 15515/ Motorcraft FL1-A,/ AC PF-2 that's been around from the 50s, and still more can make use of the "shorty" version of the same filter.
The companies that have a vested interest in making filters that actually WORK better are the ones that make the filters, and some of them (not all) do try to develop better filter function.
ON THAT

I agree on a fly-by night company, but that's not the issue. The issue is 'by a filter of unknown origin in a dealer box, versus a Wix or Purolator from a parts store?'
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Where do you get this nonsense about filters anyway.
Steve wrote:

Again, where do you get this nonsense. Seems to me I asked before, but I will ask again. Please share with us your background that would allow you to have access to the design, contracting and purchasing decisions made by the major automotive manufacturers.

That's ass-backwards. There is no heavy weight entity overlooking the individual makers of filters sold at retail. The car manufacturer is looking over the shoulder of the company making filters for use in their cars out of self-interest.

Chances are I will go with the dealer.
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John S. wrote:

Fact, not nonsense.

I answered before. Its not a secret.
Now its your turn: I ask you directly to show me any evidence at all that Ford, GM, or DiamlerChrysler (or any other major you choose to name) owns an assembly line that is even capable of producing an oil filter. You seem so confident that Toyota makes filters.. YOU prove it.
It absolutely amazes me to think that a person can be born, grow up, and reach a level of maturity so as to be able to type without having the most simplistic understanding of how major corporations do business. Or (obviously) without ever opening the hood of a and seeing the Nippondenso alternator, Sanden AC compressor, Gates hoses, Dayco belts, Stant radiator caps, Robertshaw thermostats, Bosch fuel injectors, etc. etc. etc. To actually believe that a carmaker in the 21st century (really from about the mid 20th onward) wastes its resources doing R&D and production on expendable parts is so incredibly naive that I start to wonder if you're just trolling.
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