Best oil filter for Camry

i've seen all types of posts recommending various oil filters. i'm wondering:
1. what type of filter would be best for a 99 Camry with 2.2L 4-cyl?
2. right now i have some Purolator Premium Plus filters. are these any good for 5k oil changes? or 7.5k?
2. i saw a post that Motorcraft filters have a Purolator PureOne filter element--is this true?
3. i live in a cold climate (N Maine), so the PureOne may not be the best bet because of its very dense paper element, no?
4. are Toyota OEM filters any good? (I've heard *very* mixed results with them)
i was wrong in a previous post by saying that Fram filters have improved markedly overall. after doing a bit more research, the only Fram filter worth possible consideration is their expensive X2. i can't find Mobil One filters so i've given up on them.
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Google filters I found an indepth article there. The cheap ones stay away from. But they all have different bypasses. Id say toyota is good but the 2 that I remember that stood out were Mobil and K&N . K&N having a slower bypass making cold running less likely to recirculate dirty oil before warm up.
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m Ransley wrote:

Hmmm. If so, then I'll put a hot pink stickie note to steer clear of Mobil and K&N oil filters. The reason? On COLD start-up, getting oil to the main and rod bearings as quickly as possible is the most important. The cleanliness difference of oil passing thru the filter media or not at this time leans WAY in favor of prompt unfiltered (actually *less* filtered) oil to the crank and rods.
For that matter, the same could be claimed for hot starts. How? Let's say you're blessed with one of those cars that flares the engine speed up to 2000 rpm IMMEDIATELY upon start-up and then idles down the engine. You certainly want all the oil ... and as quickly as you can get it .... delivered to the crank and rod bearings.
Probably one of the worst oil system compromises is the geared oil pump driven off the cam, with an oil filter that is mounted threaded end down, and has oil spray jets aimed up at the underside of each piston for cooling. This would be your typical turbo charged engine (until recent years) and most diesels where the oil jets are concerned. Not only are you starting up with a dry filter each morning, the extra pressure bleed off points provided by the cooling jets delay building oil pressure. The oil filter anti-backflow valve has NO EFFECT on oil draining overnight thru the crankshaft bearings or the oil cooling jets especially when the filter is higher than the crankshaft (which is usually the case).
--

- Philip @ Maximum Torque RPM





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I really didnt make myself clear if you interpret my post as saying K&N or Mobil will bypass worse-easier than others, on cold or high rpm running . Actualy is was those 2 maybe 1 more rated best and the K&N would tolerate even more hard cold driving than Mobil 1 before dreaded bypass. They both rated best in filtering, design , construction and Not bypassing early. I will google Oil Filters again it was a hard to find article. But now could be on page 1-5 I just put on K&N , Bypass kills motors , especialy in winter.
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m Ransley wrote:

I understood your post to say that Mobil and K&N would bypass at a higher pressure differenetial across the filter media. To that I replied that bypassing "early" when faced with cold, thick oil is far more desireable to restricting oil flow for the sake of filtering. Get the oil to the bearings ASAP. Filtering at this time is a luxury.
NOT bypassing when the oil is cold is what "kills motors." Cleanliness is a distant secondary concern at start up.
--

- Philip @ Maximum Torque RPM



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Phil if you are saying the good filters bypass when cold bad dont do some research you will find that isnt true. Toyotas is good, the motors wouldnt last if they did. Under a higher rpm , quick acceleration yes, but not at normal driving .
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m Ransley wrote:

This post makes no sense due to misspelling and grammar. I don't have time to figure it out. Please repost.
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So I forgot a comma, sorry if you cant understand it.
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m Ransley wrote:

You forgot MORE than a "comma." You forgot a word or two and utterly failed at communicating your thought in a manner that does not require the reader to guess. For your review:

So try again. At present, you leave me the alternative which is to dismiss your thoughts on this subject.
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- Philip @ Maximum Torque RPM



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Go back to school if you can get it phil, You are the one in a previous thread that stated there was not much difference in oil filters and people were making something out of nothing. Thats when I googled some research. Your posts are in Google also. Google Oil Filter Tests, and learn, it would do you some good.
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m Ransley wrote:

Identify the previous thread so we can review specifics. Frankly, there is little difference in filters (save the basic crap Fram) when your oil intervals are <5k miles and/or you never run your oil well after it has turned really really BLACK.
The post of yours that is in question deals (apparently) with the bypass valve (which is not always located in the filter, rather in the foundation the filter screws onto). Stay on topic.
--

- Philip @ Maximum Torque RPM



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I will only send you the google link if you wish its where we are archived forever. Probably was in April.
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m Ransley wrote:

Specifics, my friend. Otherwise you've been caught with your pants around your knees again.
--

- Philip @ Maximum Torque RPM



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snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com (pcnut) wrote in message

You're not likely to have a problem using genuine factory oil filters.
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Here is a web site filter study:
http://www.frankhunt.com/FRANK/corvette/articles/oilfilterstudy/oilfilters tudy.html
Wayne Norman
"Options are optional."
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Wayne55Dud wrote:

http://www.frankhunt.com/FRANK/corvette/articles/oilfilterstudy/oilfilters
Regarding the review of AC Delco filters (and CERTAINLY NOT limited to this brand), an often overlooked point is made:
"Oil that is in the main gallery usually leaks out through the main bearings anyway while the engine sits."
I did not find mention of pop-off pressures for any of the bypass valve on any of the filters examined. There is mention of bypass valve and spring contruction and that's about it.
Let me make a point here. When you shut off your engine the night before, all oil in the engine has been filtered and NO new gritty contamination has been added while the engine sat overnight. SO ... the next morning, when you fire up a cold engine with cold thicker oil and likely a dry filter (unless the filter is position with the threaded end up) the MOST important thing to do is get oil delivered to the crankshaft bearings ASAP (while the engine is revving up to 2000 rpm with the oil light ON). Filtering at this time is NOT a concern. Any restrictions to PROMPT oil delivery is a concern. Just for round numbers, I would greatly prefer a bypass valve with a 5 lb differential pop-off pressure to one with a 15 lb differential pop-off pressure.
--

- Philip @ Maximum Torque RPM



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As I said you are a Prolific Poster . Google said " Of Apx 11400 posts." Thats you. Knock your self out and search your lost memories.
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m Ransley wrote:

My guess is you found 11,400 posts with my title included, not that I have made 11,400 posts in that short period. Google is your friend when you learn how to interpret what Google provides. I won't stoop to your level of invective in describing your Googling skill. :-)
--

- Philip @ Maximum Torque RPM



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Sorry your memory fails you, but we remember what your position was.
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m Ransley wrote:

"We?" Gotta mouse in your pocket? Perhaps the voices in your head have names? Are "we" legion? ;-)
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- Philip @ Maximum Torque RPM



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