Approximately 11/12/03 18:31, robertmaasjr whined and turned blue:
Obviously you lack the skills to figure out whether or not it is a good idea from the information given. Specifically to you, this would make my answer that not only should you not install a keyless entry system, but you shouldn't have a keyed entry system, or any other sort of automobile entry system. Hopefully this is a sufficiently direct answer to satisfy your whining.
Sounds like some bizarre cult. Stop being such an ass and warm up your car, fool.
"robertmaasjr" wrote
This has always been one of the more enjoyable part of interacting with folks on the auto type newsgroups. Watching the need to turn something as simple as the starting and driving procedure of a car in cold weather into something similar to a "doctrine" in a "religion".
Just get in your car and drive! Or wait 30 seconds if it makes you feel better. Feeling better about what you do is often half the battle
Ian
Sure. go ahead. Stay in the garage with the door shut and sit in it and let in run for 15 minutes. Eye's getting watery? Lips turning cherry red? Nah..no thanks.
(only kidding gents.....)
On the serious side... I can recall certain turbo units in Dodges as a matter of fact, which needed good warm flowing oil before having the turbo rev up to prevent premature failure. (as opposed to mature failure I guess) Getting back in a warm car and not sitting for a minute was not a good idea then. Again, I just like to get in make sure everything works before I pull off.
My governor conceals and carries!:)
L> Approximately 11/12/03 18:31, robertmaasjr whined and turned blue: >
What informaton? you all walk in lock-step like a bunch of brainwashed maniacs. Oil is used for lubrication of moving parts. The vicosity of oil has an inverse relationship with temperature. Oil is rock hard when it is cold. Give your car 15 minutes to liquify the oil and splash it on the moving metal parts so they do not seize up. Now, please, one of you retards, please explain to me the finer points of installing a keyless entry system in a one-wire lock system. thanks in advance for your lack of cooperation.
Hey Bob - You are far too angry! You're in the wrong group, man. Because of your tact in dealing with a bunch of unknown people, you don't deserve an answer for free. Take your junker to a pro and pay for the installation. Its guys like you that caused the posting of those signs that say "We reserve the right. . . . . . ."
Use better oil.
IOW, drive in a conservative manner for 15 minutes, *NOT* let it idle in your driveway for 15 minutes, for reasons already explained.
If we're such "retards" we won't give you good advice anyway; and if you're so smart, why are you asking for advice?
nate
Yes, everyone is out of step except poor little robbie jr.
If the oil is that hard the engine doesn't have enough horsepower at low rpm to stay turning over. This happens to be one of the oldest diagnostics for figuring out that your oil viscosity range is too high for the temperature range.
Given that if the oil weren't already liquid, the engine would have stalled, this makes you look even more stupid than you did before you threw your little temper tantrum upon the suggestion that you are slightly dumber than a pond full of algae when it comes to automobiles.
In your case, take the keyless system, drop your pants, pull your head out of the way, and shove it. Oh yeah, try not to scratch the gerbil with any of the sharp parts.
Look out robbie, here comes your big sister and she is gonna slap the hell out of you for messing with her computer again.
just admit you don't know. geesh.
Expressing further cluelessness robertmaasjr muttered incoherently:
Actually, *we* all know. However, we have all signed a contract to keep such information out of the hands of clueless ignorant trolls.
I have a Protege, '90 with over 200,000 miles on it...and I DON'T let it idle for more than 10 seconds before moving. Are you nuts or what? 15 minutes? Maybe in MN after a -20 deg cold soak but for regular driving all you're doing is wasting gas, polluting the air and repeating the timeless aphorisms that were old before your daddy was born. Get some real oil. Mobil 1.
Richard
"robertmaasjr" wrote
Wow....you really "are" dumber then a sack of hammers!
Ian
X-No-Archive: Yes
Two good reasons:
PP wrote:
another brainwashed zombie. cool.
Piston-to-cylinder clearance and scuffing, primarily.
I let it idle 30 seconds in SUMMER too. Operating temperature is so far away from abient temperature that summer/winter doesn't make a damn bit of difference as far as an engine is concerned. And I keep it under 3000 RPM until the oil temp is coming up. 430,000 miles and still going.
I think that was my point. Let the oil start flowing, and keep the revs down until the oil warms up.
Darn. :-p
Even more important on those (and ANY turbocharged engine) is idling for a while *after* driving hard and before shutting down so that the turbine wheel could cool down below cherry-red. If you just shut it down, the heat from the turbine side of the turbocharger would counduct back up the turbocharger shaft to the bearing housing and cook the oil in the bearing to carbon.
Thats one reason I give myself 30 seconds. It costs me nothing because I can get my belt buckled, scan the guages, etc. while oil is getting up to the cam and rockers. It amounts to "getting in and driving off" but I just start the engine first and to all the other prep for driving afterward.
Spoken like a true troll.
Gee, where did you find a stash of 1940-vintage Sinclair Opaline motor oil? And why are you using it in 2003?
That takes about 30 seconds. And 30 seconds also gets the pistons started warming up enough to eliminate the danger of scuffing the cylinder walls.
15 minutes at idle just contaminates the oil with tons of water and combustion by-products because the pistons and rings continue to warm up so SLOWLY at idle that they don't start sealing well for most of your 15 minute warm-up time, whereas they'd begin sealing well within another minute or two of normal driving (not screaming to redline, just normal everyday driving).Your such a self-made genius (adult prodigy, assistant manager trainee) you should be able to tell US how to do it right.
"Steve" wrote
Letting an engine run for 30 seconds before pulling away has no more to do with the above then just starting the vehicle and driving off. It's a non-issue. Unless you "believe" it's an issue.....then it's best to follow your "tradition" if only to make yourself feel more comfortable about how you are treating your engine.
Do you really think it takes 30 seconds for oil to start flowing to your cylinder head and rockers? If so, you are "off your rocker".
Ian
Approximately 11/17/03 11:22, Steve uttered for posterity:
If the oil doesn't start flowing as soon as the engine starts cranking, much less starting, your engine is gonna toast itself really really fast. The oil and the engine itself will warm up faster during driving.
Keeping the revs down is also a good idea even while driving, unless you have a stick shift and lug the engine which is also bad.
However, while you are setting there warming up your engine, your transmission isn't getting any where near operating temperature. The engine heat doesn't do much, the transmission is warmed by the pumps operating or the gears turning if manual.
And the rear or front axle is still going to be pretty close to ambient temperature when you drive away...
And the CV joints and U joints.
And the shock fluid.
Those who set and warm an engine and think their car is warmed up and ready to go are kidding themselves....only the engine is warm, the rest of the car is still cold and still needs to be gently warmed up. This is best done by driving away slowly. Which can be a drag if you live at the freeway onramp. If warming up the engine oil and water is such a good idea, why not stop and think about the rest of the critical fluids and lubes in the auto?
Are you actually READING my posts, or are you just in a bad mood? Too many knuckle-busting repairs on Northstars lately? :-p
As I said in another post, it generally takes less than 10 seconds for oil to start flowing, as I've frequently oberved by starting engines with the valve covers off (either checking oil flow, or doing valve adjustments). There's no question about that.
But given the fact that the crown of the piston heats up faster than any other part of the engine, I figure 30 seconds is enough to take up the greater part of the excessive cold-engine clearances and reduce the ODDS of scuffing (note that I'm fully aware that its a game of chance, and that no damage at all MIGHT occur if you just start it cold and floor it). But hell, it takes me more than 30 seconds to get my computer bag stowed and my belt buckled anyway, why not avoid the risk altogether?
And I still keep my foot out of it until the coolant is up to full temp and the oil pressure at idle is no longer hitting the pressure regulator set-point. Pushing the revs with cold oil can (but doesn't NECESSARILY) stress the oil pump drive, blow the filter off, or at a minimum cause the filter bypass to lift allowing un-filtered oil to flow. Why risk it, when driving conservatively for a couple of minutes can eliminate the risk completely?
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