1990 4runner v6 automatic wont move?

Fluid is full but never gets warm/hot on dipstick. I think the pump in the transmission isnt working. Where it the pump? Can I get to it if I pull the pan?? Thanks:)

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The pump is operated by the transmission input shaft behind the bell housing. The transmission has to come out of the vehicle to get to the pump.

Before you pull the transmission, you can check pump operation with a transmission pressure gauge hooked up to the test ports.

What is the condition of the ATF? How many miles are on the transmission, when is the last time it was serviced, and what service(s) were performed?

Reply to
Ray O

Hello Ray:) Ive only owned it for a month. The fluid looks like new but Im thinking they may have changed it before they sold it to me. They had it rebuilt around 80,000 miles ago at a reputable transmission shop. How would I test the pressure at the test ports? Am I wasting my time pulling the pan? Anything under there that could not make it move? Thanks Ray!! :)Chris

Reply to
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If the fluid looks brand new, I would suspect that it was changed or flushed recently. If the transmission accumulated 80,000 miles without service and was then flushed, it is possible that flushing dislodged some sludge and clogged an internal passage somewhere. If the previous owner only changed the fluid, then servicing should not have caused a problem.

To test pressure at the test ports, remove the test port plug and screw in the lead for the transmission pressure gauge. Read and record pressure at idle and at stall speed. The stall test should be conducted over as short a time as possible, preferably under 20 seconds. A stall test is where you chock the wheels, set the parking brake, put your left foot firmly on the service brake pedal, put the transmission in gear, and rev the engine as high as it will go. Pressures at idle and at stall speed should be steady and not fluctuating. You can check pressure specifications and interpret pressures with a repair manual.

Another possible cause is a problem with the shift solenoids. The transmission has several electrical components - a speed sensor at the tailshaft, the lockup control near the bell housing, and shift solenoids in between. With the transmission in gear, there should be 12 volts coming to the solenoids. Again, a repair manual will show solenoid location and which solenoids should have voltage under which conditions, although normally, erratic or incorrect shifting is the symptom from bad shift solenoids.

One more possible cause is a problem with the transmission computer and related wiring.

It is possible that there is a problem with the valve body which is inside the transmission pan, but it is unlikely to be apparent with just a visual inspection, and checking it requires compressed air with a rubber nozzle and a repair manual to show how the various ports should react when air pressure is applied.

Reply to
Ray O

Hello Ray:) Thank You very much for the help. Im going to check the pressures and go from there. I will post after the holidays on my findings. Thanks again and Happy Holidays:)

Reply to
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You're welcome!

BTW, there is another possibility, and that is that the shift linkage is broken or disconnected.

Reply to
Ray O

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